Hopefully this will help to answer some of the questions i have gotten on this subject, for the more advanced members, please read as well to make sure there isn't any incorrect info listed, or anything that could be misinterpreted, my feeling won't be hurt if someone finds a mistake in this, as i had to write it over several short periods, where keeping your thoughts straight isn't always easy.
anyway here you go....
Before getting into the actual what maps to adjust to achieve what results portion of the emanage ultimate, i would like to talk about how a piggy back system works. The "piggy back" style engine management solutions alter signals either entering or leaving the stock ECU. The good thing about this is that you are starting w/ what is probably the best base map possible for your car, w/ perfect cold start, warm start, tip in etc. The bad part of this is that we often don't have an exactly clear idea of what the stock ECU is doing when and why, which can make things slightly more difficult to get to the end result, and there are still times, when the stock ECU w/ a piggy back just won't be able to handle the extreme modifications to the car.
So where do we start tuning a car w/ the EMU? By keeping the stock computer 100% happy. In closed loop mode, the stock computer reads off of the oxygen sensor and adjusts the a/f ratio to keep it around the 14.7:1 area to give the best gas mileage. When it makes these adjustments it reflects them as short term fuel trims. If the computer starts to see a pattern to these short term fuel trims, it will adjust the long term fuel trims. The computer does this to try to maintain the same driving characteristics, and power out put. So the first priority of tuning any piggy back is going to be to watch the factory fuel trims on an OBDII scan tool of some sort, and keep tabs on what they are doing. You must tune these to w/ in 10% or better, if you can not, then your car will never be predictable in how it will run. If you still do not understand the operation of the factory ECU, or have questions on it go to ..... www.autoshop101.com and read through the tech articles.
Emanage set up: Lets start by taking a look at your mechanical set up. There are two things that may or may not have been altered on your car that can have major effects on the tuning of your car.
MAF, or the mas air flow meter. If you have changed the size of the housing that the maf is in, this can make some pretty massive changes in the way the car will run. There are two ways to correct this w/ the emanage ultimate, one is to alter the signal (EMU --> stock ECU) to correct it back to the signal that the factory car would have provided. You should be able to come close to the value needed to input into the AIRFLOW ADJUSTMENT map. The second way to go about this is to use AIRFLOW OUTPUT map. The AIRFLOW OUTPUT map is made to take the place of the factory maf sensor all together, this has major advantages on cars that have restrictive sized housings that aren't easily changed. On cars that the maf isn't a restriction, you will probably find it easier to start by just using the adjustment map. If you aren't positive how much adjustment to put into this map, just ask. I can provide more than a few data logs of daily driving type situations in a mostly stock car to compare your maps to until you get this map properly set up.
Injectors are the other mechanical part that will play a major role in how the car will run. You can start by entering in the before and after value in I/J tab of the parameter setting. Along w/ the before and after sizing it is possible to enter the lag time of the injector. I have not sent out a stock injector to be test for the lag time, but witchunter performance can do this test if needed. Maybe if someone has a spare stock injector laying around we could find out the exact before flow rate, as well as lag time. If you do not know the before and after lag times, it is probably best to leave them both at zero.
Once you have the airflow meter map and the injector correction values entered, you should be able to start the car, you will probably have to make adjustments to these maps to get the car to be able to idle and rev up a bit w/ out stumbling. Once the car is running of course you will want to be watching your wide band, or at the very least the factory O2 voltages to aim for around a 14.7 a/f ratio. You may not be able to run this lean at idle w/ too large of injectors, but you should be able to get close. If you can't seem to get the car to start on the first couple of tries there are two things to think about doing. Disable the clutch safety switch, cranking on an engine w/ no oil pressure and a possibly upgraded clutch pushing/pulling against the crank isn't great on thrust bearings in the motor. (just be safe about it!) if you have tried it a few times and are getting no where, pull the plugs and inspect or change them, it is pretty easy to foul out spark plugs trying to tune something for the first time. This will hold true through most of your tuning process, so stock up on some NGK copper plugs in the right heat range, there cheap enough to change them pretty often during the tuning process if needed. Once you have the car able to run and idle, its time to take it for a drive. No this isn't the time test out the new turbo system, take it easy on it, and watch the a/f ratio, and fuel trims. I like to make most of the coarse adjustments to the injector size correction, and once that is close i will start to fine tune it on the I/J map.
I/J map
This is the map that will be used for most of the tuning you are doing. This map alters the injector signal leaving the stock computer. This is better than most of the other piggy back options because it doesn't make inadvertent changes to the ignition map like tuning the a/f by maf voltage manipulation. You can se up the I/J map in a number of different ways, RPM x TPS, RPM by MAF voltage, and RPM by pressure sensor.
RPM x TPS is by far the easiest solution for an all motor set up, although it is not the most accurate, or precise way to tune. The easiest thing about this is that you tune your WOT tune in the 90-100% TPS range, the drive ability in the 0-60%, and use the 70-80% as a transition from one to the other.
RPM x MAF is probably the best way to tune the all motor set up. You will want watch the map trace/data logs to see where to make your WOT adjustments and most important, you will want to adjust the ACCELERATION I/J map in the opposite way to keep from going lean on tip in. Start off w/ a rich tip in value on this map and slowly pull out fuel until you are back where you want to be. Again maf trace and data logs are going to be very helpful in this process.
RPM x Pressure sensor is the only way to go for boost. For this obviously you will need the GReddy map sensor, but this will allow you tune above and beyond the factories maf sensor. This map is pretty self explanatory, You will probably want to go in to the UNIT tab, and change to PSI so that things will make more sense. From there you can tune your a/f to specific boost levels. at the zero PSI and below, you will need to aim for the stoich range again to keep the stock ECU happy. You do not need to switch from stoich a/f's to 12:1 a/f at the exact onset of any boost, it can be more of a gradual transition, this will help keep the stock ECU from trying to correct your boost maps if your go into a slight load and build a small amount of boost during normal driving. Also don't be afraid to use the acceleration maps to help out w/ partial throttle boost situation.
Setting the EMU up for self tuning. This is a pretty simple thing to do assuming you have a wide band, and that it is working w/ the emu, if not http://www.transonicracinginnovation...opic.php?t=281 <-- for innovate wide band help, and http://www.transonicracinginnovation...opic.php?t=534 <-- for the rest. First thing to set up is your a/f target map, this is going to be in the 13-13.5:1 range for all motor, and 11.5-12.0:1 range for boosted or nitrous applications. Like mentioned previously you can ease into this at Low boost levels. I have found it best to start on the conservative side w/ the self tuning, and do the final tune myself, this will help avoid any potentially lean situations. You should still monitor the wideband read out during this and be prepared to let off the throttle if need be. For the rest of the set up you need to go into the A/F tab in the parameter setting. From here you will choose your affected map, fist one to worry about are the I/J map(s) the speed map we will get to later. This is pretty much just as the instruction book states as far as set up, only hint here is do not change your temp into Fahrenheit in the UNIT tab, or the self tune does not seem to work properly. (this may have been fixed on later revisions but i have not re-tried it)
For quick reference the ultimate owners manual can be found here http://www.transonicracinginnovation...bum16/emanage1 or on GReddy's web site in PDF format
wiring questions are answered here http://www.transonicracinginnovation...opic.php?t=253
nitrous use is answered here http://www.transonicracinginnovation...opic.php?t=493 of course this will be updated shortly as i have a new idea on how i want to address the nitrous situation on my vehicle.
This should cover a LOT of the basic questions.
GReddy NEW 'E-manage Ultimate' Software Screen Shots
John.
