This really is odd?! But it makes sense... What do you think? I will reassemblle opel's c20xe and put it in my lanos, so, I don't want to destroy it with incorrect break in procedure...
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=251158
From MIG...
Originally Posted by 0ddball
i used the american method as per "4 stroke performance tuning".
it consisted of running the engine up to temp, getting onto a dual carriageway or motorway, then selecting a high gear like 4th or 5th, accelerating hard at low rpm up to about 5500rpm, then snapping the throttle shut and coasting down to 2k ish. repeating that 15 to 20 times, then changing the oil and filter at about 25 miles. then another 300 miles on the second oil, varying the revs and engine loads all the time (still keeping it below 80% of the max revs), at 300 miles another better quality oil and filter change, then more variable revs and engine loads up to 700 miles ish. at that point i did the final oil change to the day to day oil.
oil schedule was
0-25 miles - cheapo halfords mineral oil
25-300 - cheapo halfords mineral oil
300-700 - better quality mineral oil like castrol GTX
700- mobil1 0w40 fully synthetic.
the idea of the above method is to work the engine hard without stressing it too much (high revs). the full throttle at low rpm maxes out the cylinder pressures and drives the piston rings into the cylinder walls (helping them bed in), then the snap throttle creates a large vacuum in the cylinder drawing up extra oil for lubrication. the 25-300 mile period, lots of stop start, varying engine loads and rpm working the engine and helping to stop the bores glazing, but again, not stressing it. the first 25 is the most critical, and the 25-300 would ideally be done in one sitting. its allot of miles and you cant really just drive to scotland and back at 4000rpm all the way, need to work the engine (without revving high), lots of a and b road stuff.
