For more info check...
http://www.uniquemotorsports.com/Daewoo ... sponse.htm
I plan on getting the front polyurethane bushings in tomarrow and possibly starting on a front lower crossmember brace. I will also work on my turbo pipes and hopefully finish the down pipe which means the exhaust work for the IHI TD04L (stock WRX) turbo is done.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
A new project begins tomarrow
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
A new project begins tomarrow
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
Re: A new project begins tomarrow
are you going to go as far as to shave the head gaskets or anything like that, or are you going to more or less just stick to handling tweaks?
330w carbon kevlar
you'd better believe thats a paddlin
"a woman is like a refridgerator, bout 6ft tall, 300 pounds........."
you'd better believe thats a paddlin
"a woman is like a refridgerator, bout 6ft tall, 300 pounds........."
thats seems like an intresting project but i have a question... does the steering rack got bushings?? i thought that the bushings are just for the sway bar fittings.
where exactly are the steering rack bushings located on a Lanos?
MMAmdouh
where exactly are the steering rack bushings located on a Lanos?
MMAmdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Yes the steering rack has bushings... if it didn't, it would be VERY loud. If you look on the firewall, you will find the steering rack. It has two u shaped brackets holding it to the firewall and those two brackets are where you'll find the bushings. I read that the Aveo has stiffer steering rack bushings, so I'll check this out.
Head Gasket? I would like to, but that's too complicated and will cause the car to be down for too long. I do have a ported intake manifold though that will be going on the car if I can ever get an intake manifold gasket.
For now, it's just a matter of doing as much as I can in the next 8 hours. I'll post back up later and get some pictures on the site.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com.
Head Gasket? I would like to, but that's too complicated and will cause the car to be down for too long. I do have a ported intake manifold though that will be going on the car if I can ever get an intake manifold gasket.
For now, it's just a matter of doing as much as I can in the next 8 hours. I'll post back up later and get some pictures on the site.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com.
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
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PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I don't think I'm going to put the time into turboing it. I bolted up my TD04L to it today and it's just too much work. I was SUPER close to getting rid of the car, but have decided to keep it another year. It had seen 3 accidents in the last 3 months, I feel like I'm driving a target. None of them were my fault, my friend barrowed it and hit a guard rail, my step dad hit a deer, and dec 30th I was waiting to turn right when the guy in the left turn lane turned right through me and ripped off my front bumper. The car is real cheap to own right now which is what I need, especially with me putting so much effort into getting the Subaru track ready.
I'm happy with what I got done today.
Sway bar bushings have all been replaced with polyurethane. For $11, this is an EXCELLENT mod. Turn in response is MUCH better. I have not had a chance to drive the car enough yet to fully test it, but initial impressions are great.
I did some more porting on the exhaust manifold. This has done nothing for power, throttle response or anything. Basically a waste of time.
I polished the exhaust manifold cover. No picture, but it looks cool I guess.
I started on the new intake setup. It's the stock airbox with a 3" 45 degree feed into the fender. I need to do some more trimming and shaping to get it fully mounted. This should smooth out the intake resonance which might give me more power and hopefully quite down the intake some.
I filled in my cracked motor mount bushing. I think this could be a great mod on a 5sp or turbo Woo. I spent $130 getting stiffer motor mounts for my Subaru and it's one of the best mods I've done. To fill the mounts in the Daewoo you are looking at about $3.50 for a tube of gasket maker or silicone which is enough for two motor mounts.
I sized up a location for a front lower chassis brace. It's just behind the engine, but I'm worried about it being too low so I'll look into this a little more at another time.
All the pictures I took are posted on my site along with a picture of the front air dam. That air dam by the way set me back less than $3. Stability is improved at speeds above 40mph.
That's it for now. Next time will be spent building a rear strut bar that will go over my speaker box and hopefully sanding/priming/painting some new (used) rims. It's just a matter of finding some good ones at pick and pull for $15 each.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
I'm happy with what I got done today.
Sway bar bushings have all been replaced with polyurethane. For $11, this is an EXCELLENT mod. Turn in response is MUCH better. I have not had a chance to drive the car enough yet to fully test it, but initial impressions are great.
I did some more porting on the exhaust manifold. This has done nothing for power, throttle response or anything. Basically a waste of time.
I polished the exhaust manifold cover. No picture, but it looks cool I guess.
I started on the new intake setup. It's the stock airbox with a 3" 45 degree feed into the fender. I need to do some more trimming and shaping to get it fully mounted. This should smooth out the intake resonance which might give me more power and hopefully quite down the intake some.
I filled in my cracked motor mount bushing. I think this could be a great mod on a 5sp or turbo Woo. I spent $130 getting stiffer motor mounts for my Subaru and it's one of the best mods I've done. To fill the mounts in the Daewoo you are looking at about $3.50 for a tube of gasket maker or silicone which is enough for two motor mounts.
I sized up a location for a front lower chassis brace. It's just behind the engine, but I'm worried about it being too low so I'll look into this a little more at another time.
All the pictures I took are posted on my site along with a picture of the front air dam. That air dam by the way set me back less than $3. Stability is improved at speeds above 40mph.
That's it for now. Next time will be spent building a rear strut bar that will go over my speaker box and hopefully sanding/priming/painting some new (used) rims. It's just a matter of finding some good ones at pick and pull for $15 each.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
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daewooluvr
- Expert
- Posts: 3052
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 3:51 am
- Location: York, PA
- Contact:
Hey Chad, Can I make a request? Can you please do a write up on where you got the parts, part numbers, how to install, with diagrams and/or pictures?? I'd gladly pay $1 for the pdf if you decide to do it.subachad wrote:Sway bar bushings have all been replaced with polyurethane. For $11, this is an EXCELLENT mod. Turn in response is MUCH better. I have not had a chance to drive the car enough yet to fully test it, but initial impressions are great.
I filled in my cracked motor mount bushing. I think this could be a great mod on a 5sp or turbo Woo. I spent $130 getting stiffer motor mounts for my Subaru and it's one of the best mods I've done. To fill the mounts in the Daewoo you are looking at about $3.50 for a tube of gasket maker or silicone which is enough for two motor mounts.
I sized up a location for a front lower chassis brace. It's just behind the engine, but I'm worried about it being too low so I'll look into this a little more at another time.
All the pictures I took are posted on my site along with a picture of the front air dam. That air dam by the way set me back less than $3. Stability is improved at speeds above 40mph.
If a bunch of members want it, it's well worth less than 1 hour to put it together.
Just my opinion,
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BosnianLanos
- Expert
- Posts: 1661
- Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 10:31 pm
- Location: Clearwater, Florida
- Contact:
The middle bushings I pulled from a pick and pull off an Izuzu Impulse. Basically just get some standard bushings for a 3/4" sway bar. I had to drill out the mounts a little to get one to fit though. As for the end link bushes, I'm not sure the size or part number, I just got a pack that looked like the stock ones. They were $10 from a local autoparts store.
For install instructions, remove the front part of the exhaust so you can get your arms up there... lube them up and wear some latex gloves because your knuckles will suffer. I have never bled so much working on a car before. You can see the sway bar mounts from above, but replacing them is easier from below. The endlink bushings are pretty simple, you need a 12mm socket and open ended wrench. It's self explanatory when you look at it.
If you are looking for a simple mod, replace the end link bushes. should only take about 15 minutes.
Chad
For install instructions, remove the front part of the exhaust so you can get your arms up there... lube them up and wear some latex gloves because your knuckles will suffer. I have never bled so much working on a car before. You can see the sway bar mounts from above, but replacing them is easier from below. The endlink bushings are pretty simple, you need a 12mm socket and open ended wrench. It's self explanatory when you look at it.
If you are looking for a simple mod, replace the end link bushes. should only take about 15 minutes.
Chad
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
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daewooluvr
- Expert
- Posts: 3052
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 3:51 am
- Location: York, PA
- Contact:
That's a good price, but you should be able to go to a local parts store and pick up some energy bushings. The sway bar is 19mm or 3/4". You will also want some white lithium grease to keep them from squeeking. My Mazdaspeed Protege squeeks going over speedbumps when its cold out. It's because I need to lube the front swaybar bushings.
Expect to pay $20 for the middle mounts and $10 for the end links. I'm not sure the part number for the end links, but if you look at them (while on the car) before going in the store and then when you come out of the store, you should be fine.
I have driven the car some more and it turns in much better. It actually feels like it now has a tighter steering rack. Less input is required to make a turn and the car does not lean NEAR as bad. This is on an otherwise stock suspension. I'll drive the car more tonight and get a better feel. Specifically I was having an issue with lift off throttle oversteer in the rain. I'm hoping the stiffer front will help nutruelize it a little. I'll push the car a little and see how easy it is to get the back end out later tonight.
One other thing to note is the tires on the car. It has good snow tires on the back and cheap mud and snow in the front. When my friend hit a guardrail, he bent both front rims and popped the tires. He replaced my Blizzacks with a set of $40 each tires. They are HORRIBLE. Hopefully they will be replaced before the months end. Since replacing the bushings it's almost like I upgraded to a 15" rim and 195/50 tire, yet I'm still running on the nasty 185/60's.
My next post will be about making a set of $60 wheels (that's for the set, not just one) look good and function even better. They will be 14", lightweight and most likely painted bronze. A set of BFG Traction T/A's will wrap them. Check the ratings on www.tirerack.com for the 185/60/14's and compared to the price you'll see why I picked them. For those running 15", check out the Kumho MX.
Chad
Expect to pay $20 for the middle mounts and $10 for the end links. I'm not sure the part number for the end links, but if you look at them (while on the car) before going in the store and then when you come out of the store, you should be fine.
I have driven the car some more and it turns in much better. It actually feels like it now has a tighter steering rack. Less input is required to make a turn and the car does not lean NEAR as bad. This is on an otherwise stock suspension. I'll drive the car more tonight and get a better feel. Specifically I was having an issue with lift off throttle oversteer in the rain. I'm hoping the stiffer front will help nutruelize it a little. I'll push the car a little and see how easy it is to get the back end out later tonight.
One other thing to note is the tires on the car. It has good snow tires on the back and cheap mud and snow in the front. When my friend hit a guardrail, he bent both front rims and popped the tires. He replaced my Blizzacks with a set of $40 each tires. They are HORRIBLE. Hopefully they will be replaced before the months end. Since replacing the bushings it's almost like I upgraded to a 15" rim and 195/50 tire, yet I'm still running on the nasty 185/60's.
My next post will be about making a set of $60 wheels (that's for the set, not just one) look good and function even better. They will be 14", lightweight and most likely painted bronze. A set of BFG Traction T/A's will wrap them. Check the ratings on www.tirerack.com for the 185/60/14's and compared to the price you'll see why I picked them. For those running 15", check out the Kumho MX.
Chad
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
UPDATE: As I already mentioned the turn in has been improved drastically. If anyone has upgraded their wheels and tires, I compare it to that.
Another benefit is the almost complete loss of torque steer. When shifting into 2nd (AT), the Woo would have a tendency to try and turn the steering wheel. Also when making a sharp right from a stop it would be somewhat of a handfull. Now that I have the filled motormount, it feels more like my AWD Subaru. I am looking foward to doing the other two motor mounts. I would suggest using a non hardening gasket material. The silicone worked well, but I covered it with gasket maker since it's a little more solid.
If you have a wheel hop problem, fill in the mount between the firewall and engine.
To help with torque steer fill the motor mounts that bolt to the side of the engine starting with the transmission side.
Only do one at a time. You'll want to fill a little. Wait a couple hours then fill a little more. It's about a 6 hour job before you will want to put it back on the car. The material will dry over the next couple of days.
This is definately something I'm doing with the Mazdaspeed and I'll also be filling in the transmission mount on the Subaru. I have also since bought new shifter and control arm bushings for my Subaru.
I can't emphasize enough how important this mod is. You are looking at less than $10 US to fill the mounts and no appearant side effects. With aftermarket mounts you get some engine vibration, but filling them does not make them as stiff as aftermarket so maybe that's why I'm not feeling it. It could also be because I have only done one motor mount so far.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
Another benefit is the almost complete loss of torque steer. When shifting into 2nd (AT), the Woo would have a tendency to try and turn the steering wheel. Also when making a sharp right from a stop it would be somewhat of a handfull. Now that I have the filled motormount, it feels more like my AWD Subaru. I am looking foward to doing the other two motor mounts. I would suggest using a non hardening gasket material. The silicone worked well, but I covered it with gasket maker since it's a little more solid.
If you have a wheel hop problem, fill in the mount between the firewall and engine.
To help with torque steer fill the motor mounts that bolt to the side of the engine starting with the transmission side.
Only do one at a time. You'll want to fill a little. Wait a couple hours then fill a little more. It's about a 6 hour job before you will want to put it back on the car. The material will dry over the next couple of days.
This is definately something I'm doing with the Mazdaspeed and I'll also be filling in the transmission mount on the Subaru. I have also since bought new shifter and control arm bushings for my Subaru.
I can't emphasize enough how important this mod is. You are looking at less than $10 US to fill the mounts and no appearant side effects. With aftermarket mounts you get some engine vibration, but filling them does not make them as stiff as aftermarket so maybe that's why I'm not feeling it. It could also be because I have only done one motor mount so far.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
UPDATE:
Filled the tranny mount last night. WOW what a difference. When shifting from 1st to 2nd (AT) it used to shake as the tires grabbed for traction. Now it just stays planted.
The filler you want to use is black high gasket maker. When doing the 1st motor mount I used half silicone and half high temp gasket maker. The silicone seems to have squeezed out, yet the high temp gasket maker remains. I will redo the motor mount later with just the high temp if the torque steer comes back.
Built a rear strut tower brace. It fixed the creeking in the back, but I'm not sure it did anything for handling. It does seem to put some of the oversteer back into the car though.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
Filled the tranny mount last night. WOW what a difference. When shifting from 1st to 2nd (AT) it used to shake as the tires grabbed for traction. Now it just stays planted.
The filler you want to use is black high gasket maker. When doing the 1st motor mount I used half silicone and half high temp gasket maker. The silicone seems to have squeezed out, yet the high temp gasket maker remains. I will redo the motor mount later with just the high temp if the torque steer comes back.
Built a rear strut tower brace. It fixed the creeking in the back, but I'm not sure it did anything for handling. It does seem to put some of the oversteer back into the car though.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
Check out my site at www.uniquemotorsports.com
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daewooluvr
- Expert
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- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 3:51 am
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Well I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow. Wish me lucksubachad wrote:UPDATE:
Filled the tranny mount last night. WOW what a difference. When shifting from 1st to 2nd (AT) it used to shake as the tires grabbed for traction. Now it just stays planted.
The filler you want to use is black high gasket maker. When doing the 1st motor mount I used half silicone and half high temp gasket maker. The silicone seems to have squeezed out, yet the high temp gasket maker remains. I will redo the motor mount later with just the high temp if the torque steer comes back.
Built a rear strut tower brace. It fixed the creeking in the back, but I'm not sure it did anything for handling. It does seem to put some of the oversteer back into the car though.
Chad
www.uniquemotorsports.com
