water pump - adjustment

[weirdscenes]

Hi Folks,

SEEKING HELP _ WATER PUMP TURNING ADJUSTMENT.
I have bought a non-running 2000 Lanos S SOHC with 48000 miles on it. UK - so it's right-hand drive.

Primary fault and last owners reason for selling was "engine starts and runs OK for a few seconds then dies"
Car very recently fitted with new head gasket, coil pack, and timing belt - I suspect as part of attempts to clear the fault.
Car is in overall good condition and I am desperate to fix it as I'm out-of-work and need transport to find a job.
I have a fair amount of car mechanical experience and am an electrical engineer so electrics are not hard for me to deal with.
When I got the car towed home I started it a couple of times and for the few seconds it ran it sounded sweet. than it sounded starved & died. I hear the fuel pump start & run for a couple of seconds then stop before I turn the key. At that time the engine fault light stayed hard on while cranking and running.

I dl'd the daewoo manual and have read through the relevant parts. I recharged the flat battery and reset the ECU. Car started Engine fault light went out as she started all other lights OK. Engine ran a few seconds OK, then sounded "lumpy" then died. Attempted re-start and starter ran but sounded like bendix had not engaged with fly wheel (engine not cranking). tried a couple more times same result.
Decided on systematic approach.
Disconnected battery. Checked all relevant wiring (after removing trim and carpets) looking for arcing and earth (ground faults). Checked ECU and fuse boxes for visible faults - all OK. located all sensors and inspected wiring all tight and OK.

Decided to start by checking timing, Removed right front wheel and trim and pulleys and timing belt covesr.
Rotated engine three times and checked timing marks. Marks align but there is a little slack in the belt.
Tensioner marks (at jockey pulley look incorrect.

Tried to loosen the water pump to rotate as per manual - here is my first problem
The engine is in the car and I cannot see the bolt at about the 2 o-clock position. The other two I can slacken OK but this third bold I can only do by feel. It feels like the allen key engages with the allen socket head, but as I turn the allen key to undo the bolt it feels like it's "stripped" the hex. It's not possible to be sure though as I cannot view it even with a mirror.

I have spent almost 3 hours struggling with this today and wonder if anyone may be able to offer advice. I have searched the forum at length but none of the references to timing belt or water pump offer any insight. It's as if all these jobs have been done with the engine out and everything in full view

ANY help would be very much appreciated.

[weirdscenes]

Spent more time this afternoon and have come to the conclusion that the oil pump needs to come off before I can get to the last water pump bolt - can anyone confirm this ?

A lot of the stuff I've looked at relates to the DOHC engine which is quite different to my SOHC.
The manual does not seem to mention removing the oil pump and regarding the water pump it just says loosed the 3 water pump clamping bolts - not HOW.

again any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to confirm timing is correct then re-assemble this lot before going into dignosis for engine starts then dies.

One other observation - when I took the plugs out this morning they were wet - despite standing overnight following the last start-up - dunno if this is relevant at this stage.

Tony

[MMamdouh]

the oil pump has nothing to do with the water pump bolts at all... don't remove it

i suppose you have removed the back side of the plastic timing belt cover... because if you didn't it is going to be one hell of a job trying to mess around with the pump

my mechanic removes the whole plastic cover so that the pump is visible an clear to work with... surly this means the removal of the timing belt and the cam gear but those are very easy to remove... you will then put the cam gear and timing belt and adjust the pup position to get the correct tension then remove the belt and cam gear to put back the rear side of the timing belt cover then put every thing back on again

MMamdouh

[weirdscenes]

Hi MMamdouh
Thanks very much for your quick and informative reply.
I have just come back in the house from still struugling with this and had decided I had to take of the back TB casing -
The manual though shows the rear casing in place in the illustration where it identifies the 3 water pump clamping bolts.
I am always very cautious when doing something for the first time (haven't worked on a woo before) so your confirmation puts my mind at rest. The oil pump on this 1400 SOHC is also quite different from that shown in the manual and the lower left hand oil line exits the pump from an oval bulge on the bottom of the front housing of the oil pump. This bulge overhands the problematic screw obstucting access almost completely. BUT . . . I can see that with the rear TB cover remove I cn get an allen key in from the left hand side. Many thanks for your help - I have been attepting to tension the belt just by adjusting jokey pulley ! - Now I can do it properly.
Best regards
Tony

[weirdscenes]

Hi again
heres my update
2000 Lanos 1.4 SOHC in UK

1. It is not possible to get to all three water pump clamping screws without removing camshaft pulley and timing belt followed by removing the rear timing belt cover.
2. In fact it's not even possible to remove the timing belt cover without removing the power steering oil pump (or at the very least taking the ppipes entering and leaving this pump off.
3. However once you remove the holding bolts for the rear timing belt cover, it IS possible to bend the cover forward enough (mine is a plastic cover) to be able to see the problem bolt (at about 2 o-clock position) and by wedging the cover forward you can get an allen key in to loosen the bolt.
The lowest bolt is obscured by the timing belt jockey pulley - so this must be removed to loosen the third bolt.

4. Once all three pump clamping bolts have been loosened (by about 1/4 turn in my case) you should check that the pump body will rotate (sometimes they may be seized or "frozen" in place).

5. Then you need to temporarily refit the camshaft pulley, jockey pulley and timing belt. Make sure you have rotated the CRANKSHAFT a couple or three times then check that the timing marks align exactly and the timing belt is tight on the right hand side of the camshaft and crankshaft.

6. I don't have the special tool for turning the waterpump and was gonna make one by cutting a piece of 6mm steel with a small angle grinder to make the necessary 42mm slot as per a spanner and weld an offset handle on to that. (there are dimensions posted elsewhere) But in the end I removed the alternator and its lower bracket and used a pair of water pump pliers.
I still had to removethe belt again to force the rear belt cover forward so I could grip the pumpand turn it, then refit cover and belt and check that jockey pulley tension was correct as per the manual. (arrow lines up with notch)
The timing belt should now be nicely tight with marks on camshaft and crankshaft accurately lined up.

One tip - I notice lots af people refer to using and air tool to loosen the very tight crankshaft pulley bolt.
It is dead easy to use a 6 - 8 mm rod or screwdriver inserted through the cam sensor toothed-wheel which is immediately behind the crankshaft pulley, and wedge it under the crancase lip. With the pulley wedged like this it is then easy to undo the pulley bolt. This works fine though it might offend the purists.

I guess this all comes as 2nd nature to a mechanic who has worked on Daewoos a few times - but I can now tell you this is hard won experience for a refrigeration engineer !

Well that;s my timing belt water pump and timing sorted - now I just have to get the lanos going !!!
(see post "Lanos starts then dies - NEW" )

Have a nice night
Tony