133.9 hp NA Aveo now become 144.6 hp
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
133.9 hp NA Aveo now become 144.6 hp
Hi guys,
need some advice. My aveo now was dyno-ed 133.9hp on the wheels. It is a 1.4 DOHC aveo for those who remembers.
I have since stroked it with Lanos crankshaft, modified the crankshaft sensor to fit, big-bored with 81.0mm wiseco pistons 11.1:1 compression with pocketed valve cuts. Also changed to forged H Beam rods with ARP bolts. And ARP head bolts. Using Cometic 1.3mm gasket. Resultant cc is about 1680cc.
The head were ported and polished. The trottle body was bored. The fuel pump was changed to Walbro 255 liters/hr and installed a return line with SARD fuel regulator. Injectors remained stock and unchanged.
The dual cams were from a 1.6 lanos brand new and regrinded in UK to 266 durations. The cams were about 1.1mm lift higher than the stock 1.4 cams.
The exhaust is a set of long 4-1 extractor, removed cat, 1.8 inch mid pipe and 1.8 inch HotBits rear semi flow muffler.
Currently running UNICHIP piggyback which is unable to remove the power cut at 6.6K rpm.
The dyno chart are as follow. Need some comments to how to improve it further.
need some advice. My aveo now was dyno-ed 133.9hp on the wheels. It is a 1.4 DOHC aveo for those who remembers.
I have since stroked it with Lanos crankshaft, modified the crankshaft sensor to fit, big-bored with 81.0mm wiseco pistons 11.1:1 compression with pocketed valve cuts. Also changed to forged H Beam rods with ARP bolts. And ARP head bolts. Using Cometic 1.3mm gasket. Resultant cc is about 1680cc.
The head were ported and polished. The trottle body was bored. The fuel pump was changed to Walbro 255 liters/hr and installed a return line with SARD fuel regulator. Injectors remained stock and unchanged.
The dual cams were from a 1.6 lanos brand new and regrinded in UK to 266 durations. The cams were about 1.1mm lift higher than the stock 1.4 cams.
The exhaust is a set of long 4-1 extractor, removed cat, 1.8 inch mid pipe and 1.8 inch HotBits rear semi flow muffler.
Currently running UNICHIP piggyback which is unable to remove the power cut at 6.6K rpm.
The dyno chart are as follow. Need some comments to how to improve it further.
Last edited by xiaogary on Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
If you've changed the exhaust you'd be best getting a small fine tune tbh. You would see some small benefits.
133bhp from that engine is a whole lotta power from somthing so small. Would love to hear it scream through the revs. Also, that's such a nice torque curve youve got there. 156n/m of torque is pretty impressive too.
133bhp from that engine is a whole lotta power from somthing so small. Would love to hear it scream through the revs. Also, that's such a nice torque curve youve got there. 156n/m of torque is pretty impressive too.
SAZ
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Impressive. Whats that engine make from the factory?
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
Whats ITB?
Will a Nubira trottle body fit? If it does, I would be looking for a used one.
For NOS, my mechanic advise a 50 shots max. He recommend dry kit to me. But he say alternatively, I can also do low 5psi boost with turbo charger and intercooler. And he gave me an option to run Microtech (stand alone ECU) which can remove the 6.6k rpm power cut. The current UNICHIP cannot remove the power cut according to my tuner.
I have just removed the mid pipe (with Hot Bits bullet), replaced with Hot bits silencer (straight through muffler with perforated 2 inch inner tube). The mid pipe were replaced with 2.0 inch pipe. The original 1.8 is too restrictive due to the increase in cc from 1400 to 1680.
I am looking for adjustable cam gears now. To advance the timing of the intake and exhaust camshaft for more power gain.
Will a Nubira trottle body fit? If it does, I would be looking for a used one.
For NOS, my mechanic advise a 50 shots max. He recommend dry kit to me. But he say alternatively, I can also do low 5psi boost with turbo charger and intercooler. And he gave me an option to run Microtech (stand alone ECU) which can remove the 6.6k rpm power cut. The current UNICHIP cannot remove the power cut according to my tuner.
I have just removed the mid pipe (with Hot Bits bullet), replaced with Hot bits silencer (straight through muffler with perforated 2 inch inner tube). The mid pipe were replaced with 2.0 inch pipe. The original 1.8 is too restrictive due to the increase in cc from 1400 to 1680.
I am looking for adjustable cam gears now. To advance the timing of the intake and exhaust camshaft for more power gain.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
Some videos I posted in other forums.
This is a video of my aveo after modification last month but before runing in the new pistons, con rods, clutch kit, flywheel, camshafts, 4.2 final drive ratio kit...etc. Its also before tuning and before installing Remus muffler 2inch free flow. Before tuning is really bad idling, due to overlapping intake and exhaust caused by the 266 duration camshafts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFe_CF4V1ok
After low end tuning (up to 3.5k rpm) to facilitate running in. Still using Hot Bits 1.8 Inch semi flow Muffler way back then. See the needle speed. Much faster now for the revs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxOtZT5G ... re=related
After running in, retuned up to 6.6k rpm until the power cut kicks in. Changed to remus exhaust. Relaxed driving in the video as its a 70km/h road. Started at 2k rpm, rev to 3k change for each higher gear change until gear 4. Gear 5 directly up gear as speed is reach, cannot go faster or may risk traffic fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM_hhSrF9C8
After changed to 2 inch mid pipe, and included the silencer muffler in the mid pipe, exhaust is more quiet now. But then the lumpy or grumbling due to the high cams are still very noisy during idling. Will update some more videos after more works done, retune and re-dyno.
This is a video of my aveo after modification last month but before runing in the new pistons, con rods, clutch kit, flywheel, camshafts, 4.2 final drive ratio kit...etc. Its also before tuning and before installing Remus muffler 2inch free flow. Before tuning is really bad idling, due to overlapping intake and exhaust caused by the 266 duration camshafts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFe_CF4V1ok
After low end tuning (up to 3.5k rpm) to facilitate running in. Still using Hot Bits 1.8 Inch semi flow Muffler way back then. See the needle speed. Much faster now for the revs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxOtZT5G ... re=related
After running in, retuned up to 6.6k rpm until the power cut kicks in. Changed to remus exhaust. Relaxed driving in the video as its a 70km/h road. Started at 2k rpm, rev to 3k change for each higher gear change until gear 4. Gear 5 directly up gear as speed is reach, cannot go faster or may risk traffic fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM_hhSrF9C8
After changed to 2 inch mid pipe, and included the silencer muffler in the mid pipe, exhaust is more quiet now. But then the lumpy or grumbling due to the high cams are still very noisy during idling. Will update some more videos after more works done, retune and re-dyno.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
ITB are: Individual Trotel Bodies
Yes the nubira trotel bodie fit I have one on my lanos the stock one from lanos are 58mm the nubira are 62inlet and on the back part 65mm Ported are 65mm.
Here a short video of my lanos rev-up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4K2QwN2z5g
Yes the nubira trotel bodie fit I have one on my lanos the stock one from lanos are 58mm the nubira are 62inlet and on the back part 65mm Ported are 65mm.
Here a short video of my lanos rev-up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4K2QwN2z5g
I am not sure how big is a aveo 1.4m trottle body. It fits the AEM air intake I bought from USA which is meant for Aveo 1.6M in US. So I guess a 1.4m and a 1.6m has a same trottle body.
Anyone knows how big is an aveo trottle body? Is it a direct swap with nubira trottle body and any implication on the wiring such as the Trottle Position Sensor or bypass valve to control idling?
Anyone knows how big is an aveo trottle body? Is it a direct swap with nubira trottle body and any implication on the wiring such as the Trottle Position Sensor or bypass valve to control idling?
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
didn't do a throughout check but i recon the TB on an aveo is the same one on a lanos so the swap is doable
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
- greenbluewoo
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mate:
Get hold of a set of Toyota 43mm or 45mm independant throttle bodies from one of their 20 valve motors. they are dirt cheap, even here in Africa we pay about R1500 for a set of 4 complete, thats only $200US.
You would really need a stand alone engine management though to enable you to up the rev range a bit, i mean honestly that graph is still on the up when the rev limiter, check out the Gotech website for their stand alone ECU etc.
Oh and the 266 grind is quite a mild grind cam, in theory you should be 260 degree inlet and 270 exhaust (that's the way David Vizard designed the initial 266 anyway) personally, i'd stick in something a bit more lairy. i run a 286 cam in my old classic Mini, lumpy idle, but boy does it kick. the bigger the cam, the bigger the power, but that power does kick in further up the rev range .... just bare that in mind Maybe a 270 inlet and a 280 exhaust (276)
Oh and i don;t think youd really get away with a turbo on 11-1 compression.
Don;t run dry NOS, youd risk detonation, i run a 30 shot on the same Mini but i run it wet, more fuel = less likelyhood of you blowing up the motor.
the spec you have for your motor with the pistons, rods and especially the Cometic gasket should mean you could run a 100 shot. my mate ran a 75hp wet shot on a std 8 valve 1600 with no problems at all.
Thats my 2 cents.
Well done on the motor though, nice stuff inside.
Sean.
Get hold of a set of Toyota 43mm or 45mm independant throttle bodies from one of their 20 valve motors. they are dirt cheap, even here in Africa we pay about R1500 for a set of 4 complete, thats only $200US.
You would really need a stand alone engine management though to enable you to up the rev range a bit, i mean honestly that graph is still on the up when the rev limiter, check out the Gotech website for their stand alone ECU etc.
Oh and the 266 grind is quite a mild grind cam, in theory you should be 260 degree inlet and 270 exhaust (that's the way David Vizard designed the initial 266 anyway) personally, i'd stick in something a bit more lairy. i run a 286 cam in my old classic Mini, lumpy idle, but boy does it kick. the bigger the cam, the bigger the power, but that power does kick in further up the rev range .... just bare that in mind Maybe a 270 inlet and a 280 exhaust (276)
Oh and i don;t think youd really get away with a turbo on 11-1 compression.
Don;t run dry NOS, youd risk detonation, i run a 30 shot on the same Mini but i run it wet, more fuel = less likelyhood of you blowing up the motor.
the spec you have for your motor with the pistons, rods and especially the Cometic gasket should mean you could run a 100 shot. my mate ran a 75hp wet shot on a std 8 valve 1600 with no problems at all.
Thats my 2 cents.
Well done on the motor though, nice stuff inside.
Sean.
Séan Brennan
1600 DOHC 16v
Turbo TD04
Wiseco Pistons
ex - 17" TSW Freeze
Yokohama Parado 205/40s
NOW = 18" TSW Terra's
Pirelli 215/35 P Zero Nero tyres
1600 DOHC 16v
Turbo TD04
Wiseco Pistons
ex - 17" TSW Freeze
Yokohama Parado 205/40s
NOW = 18" TSW Terra's
Pirelli 215/35 P Zero Nero tyres