Nubira head bolts

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:28 pm

Already, i've got the 10 head bolts left and then i can pull the head to see what kind of damage i have from the out of timing start. I can't even break them free. I only tried one and that was with an 1/2" air impact! Is there a trick? Do i need to loosen them in a certain order?

Big Jeff · Post by **Big Jeff** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:30 pm

not sure about the head bolts, but on on the others some of them i had to tighten first before i loosen them

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:51 am

Yeah that's a good idea. I'll have to get that a shot.

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:13 am

Im not sure if there's a trick but, tbh, be careful, dont apply too much pressure if you're doing what Jeff said. You hafta remember that those bolts have constantly been heated up and cooled down, expanded and contracted for thousands of miles. So you don't want to snap one.

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:24 pm

The only reason that they would be so tight is that they were installed incorrectly. They are supposed to be torqued to a baseline, then 3 separate degree turns for each bolt. Mine broke loose after a simple turn from a rachet wrench. And that's after 200,000 miles! You may have some rust down along the threads holding them to the block, spray some penetrating lube and let it sit for a few minutes and then try.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:39 pm

There is standing oil on the bolts, lol, not sure the penetrating oil would make it through, but yeah i had thought about that.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:21 am

Well i finally got the head bolts off, geeeeez. That was horrible and stressful on the ol' arms. Anyways, take a look:

Could have been alot worse, but looks like i have one bent valve, not bad. What is required in changing the valve?

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:03 am

Why're they so corroded and rusty?

Never seen a head like that, that hasnt been lying in a field for 10 years.

buddha102 · Post by **buddha102** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 3:36 am

hmm maybe moisture? idk dont have a clue

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:57 am

well it has been sitting for a month half way torn apart, that's the only thing i can figure.

buddha102 · Post by **buddha102** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:47 pm

JoshC wrote:well it has been sitting for a month half way torn apart, that's the only thing i can figure.

ooo than nvm lol

try cleaning it up little bit if it doesint help than buy new parts of ebay

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:42 pm

Even for a month, seems like an awful lotta rust on them. Are all 4 cylinders like that?

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:03 pm

Pir0 wrote:Even for a month, seems like an awful lotta rust on them. Are all 4 cylinders like that?

Not really, they look more like the top left valve does.

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:07 pm

JoshC wrote: Could have been alot worse, but looks like i have one bent valve, not bad. What is required in changing the valve?

it's not too hard to tear down the head but I wouldn't just put new valves in. you should have the valve guides check and the bad ones replaced. also replace the valve stem seals a have the valve seats checked.

you can find the new OE valves for a fair price at Budget Car Sales in California (I think), their number is 1.619.593.3611. ask for Paul in the parts department.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:38 pm

Thanks for the info. I was actually just thinking about taking into a head shop and letting them rework it. I'd like to have it cleaned and shinned up to look new since it does look pretty bad. I found some valves on ebay for about $15 a piece, so if i only need one then that's not bad.

Can you tell just by look if the valve is bad? Obviously the one is bad, but what about the other 3 there?