But you could make all new lighter pulleys as well. Would this give any gains even with the exception of the crank pulley?gse_turbo wrote:Lets hope so. My friend that's giving me the free 2.2/D20 is taking his sweet time, but I offered him a F&R wilwood BBK for it (and subs for the gf) so he'll get it to me before long.PrecisionBoost wrote: I wanted to get the more affordable tensioner out first, this was also the one Danny wanted and he will likely be the first to put it to use.
Garrett
gse_turbo wrote:another option is to replace the serp belt with 2 v-belt, one to each unit. this could get evpensive because all of the pullies would have to be replaced.
parts request & new product previews
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www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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I see where you're going and it's not a bad idea but you would need to basically add four .5" or thicker injetor flanges, which way just add weight.PrecisionBoost wrote:Looks good, glad to see your "ahead of the game" on this one
Too bad you couldn't use the factory tensioner, but I suppose $50 is pretty cheap.
I have a request for a possilbe part.... at this moment I'm trying to figure out a good way to mount the injectors into place on the new intake manifold ( based upon the stainless intake manifold flange I bought off you )
After looking at the factor manifold I wondered if it might be possible to water jet a solution.
I'm sort of thinking a plate like this...
This is just a rough sketch but I thought it would be posible to cut it out of 3/4" or 1" stainless and blend the other side via some machining.
I will probably make something myself on my milling machine.... but I'd like to see what you think since it would be a nice addition to your manifold flange.
It seems as though the square notch in the top of the intake flange is only there to let the spray from the fuel injector go directly into the cylinder head.
I was thinking "why did they make it square" and then I had the thought that perhaps the edges make turbulance which atomizes the fuel better
Who knows... perhaps they were just lazy and felt that a square notch was cheaper than a round one.... I don't really know why they did it the way they did.
can you do angular cuts?
My thought is that the big hole would need to be cut at an angle so that the pipe clears the injector
what would have to be done is...
• cut the port hole and outter shape on the water jet
• fly-cut the injector surface to the angle you want them to sit at
• drill the infector holes last
to make sure that everything was clocked correctly each injector flange should be linked. this would also make sure that the the fly-cut and holes are all semetric.
what I plan on doing is using the OE manifold to build a jig to similate the fuel rail and injectos. then I'll use some thick wall round stock and cut the section that mounts to the manifold at the angle that I want the injectors to sit. then with the jig, locate all the injectors and rail mounting holes and weld on what's needed.
this way you only have the small tube sections and some mounting hardware to add to the weight.
Garrett
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I'm not sure if there would be an abvantage, the disadvantage would be that it would be more expensive that it's work.kinkyllama wrote:gse_turbo wrote:Lets hope so. My friend that's giving me the free 2.2/D20 is taking his sweet time, but I offered him a F&R wilwood BBK for it (and subs for the gf) so he'll get it to me before long.PrecisionBoost wrote: I wanted to get the more affordable tensioner out first, this was also the one Danny wanted and he will likely be the first to put it to use.
Garrett
But you could make all new lighter pulleys as well. Would this give any gains even with the exception of the crank pulley?gse_turbo wrote:another option is to replace the serp belt with 2 v-belt, one to each unit. this could get evpensive because all of the pullies would have to be replaced.
what would have to be done is make a single v-belt for the crank, alt, and power steering and redesign the PS bracket to be adjustable.
the idea of the system is that it can be upgraded a piece at a time if needed and anyone that already hase a UD pulley would still be good to go.
perhaps I can design a v-belt pulley that can be used with the UD pulley.
Garrett
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I'm not so sure that you could do the injector holes in the flange if they have to go all the way down to seat... there isn't a whole lot of room on the top side.
I was thinking of a spacer because it would effectively move the injector away from the cylinder head for clearance and allow the angle to penetrate further back ( thus the injector could be positioned higher up from the tube so it's just barely poking in.
With the injector hole in the manifold in the fully seated position I have to think that the tip of the injector would be blocking about 20% of the intake runner.
I suppose another alternative would be for you to make a 2" or 3" intake runner that mounts to your flange.... you could use a slightly thicker pipe and machine into it the shape of the port so it's an exact match on one side and perfectly round on the other ( to accept the intake runner.
Just an idea.... probably too expensive to make it viable.
With regards to the weight.... anyone making an intake manifold out of stainless as opposed to aluminum is probably not too concerned about the extra few grams the spacers would require.
I'm making a custom intake because I want a particular design and it needs to have space for 8 injectors ( 4 factory for vacuum to 0psi and then 4 aftermarket to come into play during boost )
The problem I'm having right now is that the big injectors are at pretty much zero duty cycle (less than 1% ) with lower fuel pressure and the car is still running like crap at idle.
Sometimes it gets so rich that the ECU pushes the duty cycle to 0%.... then the car starts to go lean and stumbles... then it kicks in 2% and goes really rich again... making it stumble more.
So by using the much smaller stock injectors at idle and low RPM when there is no boost the car should run perfect ( just like a stock engine )
Plus when you add the stock injector output to the aftermarket injector output it will give me the equivilent of about 750CC injectors (good for lots of boost )
Anyways.... any ideas you have would be welcome.... if I design something I will give you pics so you can see what I came up with.
I was thinking of a spacer because it would effectively move the injector away from the cylinder head for clearance and allow the angle to penetrate further back ( thus the injector could be positioned higher up from the tube so it's just barely poking in.
With the injector hole in the manifold in the fully seated position I have to think that the tip of the injector would be blocking about 20% of the intake runner.
I suppose another alternative would be for you to make a 2" or 3" intake runner that mounts to your flange.... you could use a slightly thicker pipe and machine into it the shape of the port so it's an exact match on one side and perfectly round on the other ( to accept the intake runner.
Just an idea.... probably too expensive to make it viable.
With regards to the weight.... anyone making an intake manifold out of stainless as opposed to aluminum is probably not too concerned about the extra few grams the spacers would require.
I'm making a custom intake because I want a particular design and it needs to have space for 8 injectors ( 4 factory for vacuum to 0psi and then 4 aftermarket to come into play during boost )
The problem I'm having right now is that the big injectors are at pretty much zero duty cycle (less than 1% ) with lower fuel pressure and the car is still running like crap at idle.
Sometimes it gets so rich that the ECU pushes the duty cycle to 0%.... then the car starts to go lean and stumbles... then it kicks in 2% and goes really rich again... making it stumble more.
So by using the much smaller stock injectors at idle and low RPM when there is no boost the car should run perfect ( just like a stock engine )
Plus when you add the stock injector output to the aftermarket injector output it will give me the equivilent of about 750CC injectors (good for lots of boost )
Anyways.... any ideas you have would be welcome.... if I design something I will give you pics so you can see what I came up with.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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I was actually talking about a second flange seperate from the one the bolts to the head, one that would likely have to welded to the one like what you bought.
I've thought about running and injector system like what you're talking about but it's hit the back burner now that I'm working on ITB's in a turbo setup, once that is running right I might fallow your lead.
Garrett
I've thought about running and injector system like what you're talking about but it's hit the back burner now that I'm working on ITB's in a turbo setup, once that is running right I might fallow your lead.
Garrett
- PrecisionBoost
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Ok, I didn't realize you were talking about a completely different flange.... that would work pretty good.
I figured on having four separate flanges because that would reduce the cost of manufacturing.
I took a 2" mandrel 90 deg and cut it in half, rotated it around and welded it back together and I think it will work very nicely for the location of the first injector boss.
I originally had planned on using 1.5" tubing since the four runner areas added together are exactly the same as a single 3" which is what I wanted to run from the turbo upwards.
My thought was that if I stick to 1.5" tubing the input velocity will be exactly identical to that of the 3" with no pressure drop.
I ended up squishing a 1.5" on one end and cutting it open for the injector boss... but I couldn't get the angles just right to get the injector pointing at the valves.
So.... I think I will use the 2" runners.... the four injectors at the valve for good atomization and quick throttle response.... and four injectors further back for charge cooling effect and mid range power gains.
With the 2" runner I won't have to worry about blocking off part of the flow to the port.... I should be able to blend it in nicely.
The two 45 deg welded with rotation creates a nice pathway.... I can see straight through for about 50% of the inner diameter with a nice slight bend at the top and bottom.
I figured on having four separate flanges because that would reduce the cost of manufacturing.
I took a 2" mandrel 90 deg and cut it in half, rotated it around and welded it back together and I think it will work very nicely for the location of the first injector boss.
I originally had planned on using 1.5" tubing since the four runner areas added together are exactly the same as a single 3" which is what I wanted to run from the turbo upwards.
My thought was that if I stick to 1.5" tubing the input velocity will be exactly identical to that of the 3" with no pressure drop.
I ended up squishing a 1.5" on one end and cutting it open for the injector boss... but I couldn't get the angles just right to get the injector pointing at the valves.
So.... I think I will use the 2" runners.... the four injectors at the valve for good atomization and quick throttle response.... and four injectors further back for charge cooling effect and mid range power gains.
With the 2" runner I won't have to worry about blocking off part of the flow to the port.... I should be able to blend it in nicely.
The two 45 deg welded with rotation creates a nice pathway.... I can see straight through for about 50% of the inner diameter with a nice slight bend at the top and bottom.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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You should find other means to get those phenolic made
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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Wasn't kenny doing some of it?gse_turbo wrote: what do you mean?
Garrett
Danny
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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Oh I didn't know that, cool. Let us know when that happens and I might be getting a couple sets...if I'm not brokegse_turbo wrote:well I have been doing them by request, I had some jigs made and I'm kinda doing them by had, they come out fantastic but they take time.
once our newest collaboration is finished, I'll start having them done in CNC.
Garrett
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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Finally pics:
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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No my mounts are bad. I've ordered new ones twice now and both times a couple days later they say they're on back order and cancel my order. So now I gotta get them elsewhere.gse_turbo wrote: looks good, so have you had it in the car yet?
so what did you think of the quality?
The quality's great. Couldn't ask for more
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
- greenbluewoo
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