Nubira 2.0 timing

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:00 pm

This has turned out to be quit the little pain in the ass! In all my reading everything says to use J-42492 Timing Belt Adjuster, is that a part that adds to the water pump? My old and new pump have no way of adjusting the pump unless you do it with your fingers. I took the bolt at 1 oclock on the pump out (1 of the 3 bolts) so i could twist the pump around until the little tab hits the timing belt cover. No go, the belt lacks well over 1/2" to go on the water pump. There wasn't that much stretch difference between the old belt and the new one. I have to get this car on the road today but it ain't looking good!!!!!

Who ever thought of using the water pump as the tension adjuster needs shot!

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:11 pm

Normally the 2.0 DOHC timing belt tension is done by turning auto-tensioner's cam with a hex key.

Daniel

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:12 pm

A little bit of history, last week i got a new belt and my buddy and i were trying to get it on. We finally got it but we didn't realize we had the rear cam out of time with the front cam and the crank. We started it and it ran like shit for about 3 seconds and then i turned it off. I tried to start it again but i couldn't. Now, the front cam is really being a pain in the ass at staying in place. When i line the arrow head up with the cover mark it wants to drift back toward the rear. I would have thought it would stay where i put it.

Someone please chime in with some help before she heads to the scrap yard!

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:15 pm

I try that in conjunction with moving the water pump and i can't seem to get it. What is the order for putting the belt o? I'm trying to get it on the cams and then work my way downt the front side of the motor and under the crank, then putting it over the water pump and lastly trying to get it over the tensioner but every combo i try i still come up 1/2" short. Is my order wrong?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:25 pm

I don't know if you have the procedure for the timing belt. I'll put here as pics in about 20 min. If you have started the engine with a wrong timing there are probably some bend valves, sorry.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:30 pm

I don't have any procedures for the timing belt, the 1.6L in the how to section is worthless for the 2.0 job.

Only one way to find out if i bent some valves. My first timing belt job and i'm not impressed with the daewoo enginneering on this puppy.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:35 pm

Daniel, when we started it the first time, my buddy had the rear cam turned counter clock wise by 1 tooth from what i can tell. We didn't hear any kind of rattling, it was just very sluggish. Lord i hope i didn't bend something!!!! I'll be waiting for the pics, thanks man.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:57 pm

One tooth off is maybe not that bad. Let's hope.
Here are there. Hope it's not too big. You can get the manual in the FAQ section page #2
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5085 .

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:07 pm

Thanks alot Daniel. It's amazing how easy the directions make it sound, but when you are in there getting your hands greasy it's nothing like that. I'm pretty handy around vehicles and this is the most frustrating things i've worked on in a long time!

I still can't determine what order to put the belt on. One quetion, if i get my cam gears pointed the way they should be, install the belt on those 2 and work my way down to the crank gear, how do i get the belt tight between the cam and crank gears when i can't move either gear without it being out of time?????

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:34 pm

That's the hard thing to keep cam gears in place. There is special 'immobiliser" tool for that. Or you can hold both cam gears by mean off crossed and togheter clamped whrenches on camshafts. Something like /\ . But you need to remove camshaft cover to do it so.

It's over midnight here so I go to sleep now

.
I wish you success,

Daniel

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:02 pm

Alright, finally got the SOB on. I took some pictures of the timing marks, i wanted to get some opinions before i started it. I'll probably go ahead and put the stuff back together and wait to hear back from someone. This is before i turned the crank over 2 times per the instructions. After i turn it I'll get some pictures if it looks alot different then these:

This one is bothering me a little bit since it's is just right of the mark on the cover. For some reason i have some bad pitting on the bottom of my cover, so you can barely see the hash on it.

Also, can you get the belt to tight? It was loose before (kind of why i changed it) but now it is very tight. Probably only a 1/4" play between the front roller and the crank. I referanced that area since it was the longest straight stretch.

EDIT Okay, i rolled it over twice. Is it normal for it to be hard, then break easy and get hard again? It didn't break really easy, but it was a big difference. I'm guessing it gets easier as the crank breaks over??

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:57 am

Well i put everything back together on the car because from as far as i could tell it was good. I talked with a couple of friends and it all sounded good. I was going to wait to start it, hoping i would see something on here first, but i couldn't stand it, i had to start it. Of course it wouldn't start. I was in the car obviously and my wife happened to be on the porch and she said the motor was jumping around alot it looked like. It was shaking the car pretty hard. I really got close to running a couple of times, but mostly just hard shaking. Any ideas now?????

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:33 am

Did you refit all stuff that was disconnected?

Your timing marks looks good. Compare here: http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10306 .

Belt too tight? If the pointer of the tensioner is on the notch, then it's OK. But I remember a post where someone has to play with the water pump position to get it right.
On older cars without auto tensioner we tested the belt tension by twisting it between two fingers. Maximun 1/4 of a turn was allowed. Now trust tensioner.

Hard to turn over? If you have not removed the spark plugs you must feel 4 compressions/ relief cycles over the two hand turns. If not, check compressions like here described: http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8326 .

If you have sparks, gas, compression and timing correct it should start.

Hope you sort it out.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:55 am

checking compressions is my next try. I'm worried about something being bent and not allowing it start. I'll by testing the compression. If i can't find something there then i guess i'll have to take it back apart.

I did put everything back together the way it came apart, no loose wires hanging. It was turning over slow and hard it seemed like.

JoshC · Post by **JoshC** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:27 pm

Well i finally got around to testing the compression last night. I was a bit worried when i pulled #1 plug out and it was full of oil! 2 and 3 were dry and 4 had liquid in it. I say liquid because it looked more like water, possibly from holding in the camber of the plug. Anyways, i've got 0 PSI on #1 and between 160-180 on 2, 3, and 4. So i'm screwed!

If someone finds this on a search and is going through the same headache, please align your timing marks before you put the belt on.

The one thing i have been thinking of and i wish someone WOULD ANSWER is, do you have to get a certain cylinder at top dead center, or just align the timing marks? I would have thought that the cylinder would have had to be in order first????