parts request & new product previews

[jidasas]

Thanks...I guess I'll be putting my turbo up for sale...that is unless I can get some forged rods out of an aveo and get some pistons from you I'll probably buy a much smaller one...since the one I have now doesn't hit peak efficiency until around 16 psi..

Jimmy

[gse_turbo]

just an update... parts in the works are...

• Main support for the T20/U20 motors ($108) CLICK HERE
• Main support for the C20 motors ($108) CLICK HERE
• oil pan flange for the C20, T20/U20/T22/U22 motors (aluminum or steel) (price to be desided)
• intake and exaust flanges for the 1.6 DOHC (prices will be that same as similar motors)
• a true Quick shift kit, will fit most transmission accept the F28
• Z20LET MLS head gaskets, .051 $100US CLICK HERE
• Carbon/Kevlar clutch kits w/ pressure plate and bearing (3/4"x24s and 1"x14s) $265 CLICK HERE
• front motor mount for 2.0/2.0 swaps into a lanos, lemans, kadett, astra... $90US
• power steering relocation bracket $90US
• strut brace for lanos
• strut brace for lemans
• strut brace for forenza/reno
• braided stainless brake lines for most chassis(Lanos/Lemans, Forenza/Reno to start)

let me know what parts you guys think are most imortant and i can push some of the other stuff aside for now

[gse_turbo]

new product preview for ya!

we are a little more that half way done with developing our quick shift linkage for the F16,F17... and the F28.


we have enough end pieces made to do 16 pieces, the only hang up is the center section bushing.

we now have header flanges for the 2.0 SOHC motors like the C20GET


we also have header flanges for the newer "mid-size" Opel motor being used in the 1.8 Saturn Astra

[Pir0]

new product preview for ya!

we are a little more that half way done with developing our quick shift linkage for the F16,F17... and the F28.

Something recently made me think a bit more about these and the daewoo f16 boxes. Is the bellhousing on the daewoo f16, and the vauxhall f16 the same?

My friend had an f20 in his nexia, and had the quick shift in and it worked no problem.

He recently changed the engine and decided to go back to the f16. So i lent him my f16 box and when he had it all in, the gear linkage hit off the bellhousing with the quickshift installed.


Don't mean to hijack the thread, we can delete or move it if ya wish, i dont mind, was just something to think about.

[gse_turbo]

no need to delete the post, it's a valid post.

from everything I've read the F16 and the F20 should be identical. what i'm thinking happened is that the adjustment for the foward/backward movement wasn't adjusted properly.

it does make me wonder tho because the side transmission mount that the shift linkage mounts to should be identical as well.

I think it just needed a bit of adjusting, what was the fix you guys came up with.

Garrett

[gse_turbo]

take a look at some of the pics and tell me what you think.

2.0" and 2.5" test pipe or exhaust flanges for the 1.6


turbo adaptor prototype, eclipes TD05 (T25) turbo to OE 1.6 manifold. the turbo bolt holes need to be clocked 90*


what should be the final prototype o fthe power steering pump bracket. just needs to be tack welded and assebled with lanos 2.0 conversion bracket.

[Pir0]

no need to delete the post, it's a valid post.

from everything I've read the F16 and the F20 should be identical. what i'm thinking happened is that the adjustment for the foward/backward movement wasn't adjusted properly.

it does make me wonder tho because the side transmission mount that the shift linkage mounts to should be identical as well.

I think it just needed a bit of adjusting, what was the fix you guys came up with.

Garrett

The Rear gearbox mount is the same. I've always thought the linkage was identical too. He ground about 4mm out of the bellhousing with a small grinder lol. It clears now, but it still shouldnt have needed adjusted if they're identical. ANd yes, he hacked away at MY f16 lol.

And that turbo flange looks nice ^^

[gse_turbo]

new pics of the PS pump mocked up and the tensioner too.





I used this motor mount because the center is broken away and can illustrate clearence.




Even though on this (8v) block the crank sensor and (2.2) dipstick holes aren't used you can see that there is evough clearance for both.



here are the pics of the tensioner bracket needed for removing the A/C on the 2.0 and 2.2 ecotec (d-tech) motors.

[exist3nce]

Nice work Garrett, keep those custom products coming!

[PrecisionBoost]

The power steering relocation mount seems promising, but your pictures don't show the tensioner or crank pulley.

I'm assuming that in order to use the PS mount you also need the alternator mount with the tension adjustment ( since the tensioner must be deleted to avoid contact with the lanos/lemans mount )

I'm sort of concerned with the contact area on the crank pulley.... with the angles shown it seems as though only an inch or perhaps two will be in contact with the serpentine belt and it will be worse if an underdrive pulley is used.

here is a picture of my U20SED out in my garage for reference.

[PrecisionBoost]

Unfortunatly for anyone with a turbo the location of the power steering is pretty close to either the tubine outlet or compressor outlet. (which is the only reason I didn't fabricate a PS mount )


Have you thought about the idea of making a bracket to move the automatic tensioner over to the left side underneath the alternator so you don't have to do anything to the mount for the alternator?

Here is a very quick mock up of what angles could be made if the auto tensioner was moved over to the other side...

[gse_turbo]

Unfortunatly for anyone with a turbo the location of the power steering is pretty close to either the tubine outlet or compressor outlet. (which is the only reason I didn't fabricate a PS mount )


Have you thought about the idea of making a bracket to move the automatic tensioner over to the left side underneath the alternator so you don't have to do anything to the mount for the alternator?

Here is a very quick mock up of what angles could be made if the auto tensioner was moved over to the other side...

ahead of the game, I have one ready just need to assemble it. I wanted to get the more affordable tensioner out first, this was also the one Danny wanted and he will likely be the first to put it to use. I'll take some pics tonight of the one with an auto tensioner, it's pretty sweet.

with the auto tensioner, I started by trying to relocate the OE unit but it's just not doable with it's designand the area and how much it needed to move. the tensioner needed would be for a Ranger or Taurus 3.0 which are easy to get in any parts story for about $50.

the bracket that you are wanting completey replaces the lower alt bracket.

I'll also post pics of the full system tomorrow. I think you will agree once you see the pics that the amount of belt to crank pulley has been addressed.

Garrett

[gse_turbo]

some new pics...

this was the first prototype so there would be a couple tweaks and yes there would be a tube between the two uprights where the alt mounts for support.









here's a pic of the belt without the auto tensioner as iit would fit using the mechanical tensioner. I did have my UD pulley at the moment because it'e being speced out for production.



there is one last thing I am going to try (and still use the OE pullies) a that is (use this tensioner but) buying a larger pulley and use the smaller one as an idler low between the PS and crank.

another option is to replace the serp belt with 2 v-belt, one to each unit. this could get evpensive because all of the pullies would have to be replaced.

[gse_turbo]

...no comments!?

[PrecisionBoost]

Looks good, glad to see your "ahead of the game" on this one

Too bad you couldn't use the factory tensioner, but I suppose $50 is pretty cheap.


I have a request for a possilbe part.... at this moment I'm trying to figure out a good way to mount the injectors into place on the new intake manifold ( based upon the stainless intake manifold flange I bought off you )

After looking at the factor manifold I wondered if it might be possible to water jet a solution.

I'm sort of thinking a plate like this...



This is just a rough sketch but I thought it would be posible to cut it out of 3/4" or 1" stainless and blend the other side via some machining.

I will probably make something myself on my milling machine.... but I'd like to see what you think since it would be a nice addition to your manifold flange.

It seems as though the square notch in the top of the intake flange is only there to let the spray from the fuel injector go directly into the cylinder head.

I was thinking "why did they make it square" and then I had the thought that perhaps the edges make turbulance which atomizes the fuel better

Who knows... perhaps they were just lazy and felt that a square notch was cheaper than a round one.... I don't really know why they did it the way they did.

can you do angular cuts?

My thought is that the big hole would need to be cut at an angle so that the pipe clears the injector