Engine Upgrade Problems (Need your advices pls)
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Engine Upgrade Problems (Need your advices pls)
Hi all,
I am starting on my NA project soon.
Original set up now:
1) Stock 1.4 DOHC 1398cc Chevy Aveo Engine with Ecotec II, twin cam 16 valves. (Bore 77.9mm X 73.4mm stroke) with UNICHIP Q+ piggyback computer
2) Walbro Fuel Pump
3) SARD Fuel Regulator set at 55 psi at idle
4) Light weight Crankshaft pulley
5) Ported and polished head with 2mm height shaved off for higher compression (compression ratio increased from 9.0 to 11.2 after shaved off 2mm with stock internal, tuned with UNICHIP)
I had the following list of stuffs:
1) My current set up as above.
2) 1599cc Lanos/Aveo Crankshaft. (81.5mm stroke, lanos/Aveo has 79.0mm bore)
3) 81.0mm oversize bore forged domed pistons with deep valve cuts for high compression (11.1:1 compression pistons for stock head unshaved) It comes with rings (duno which type), and pin (also duno which type flat or pressed and how they compare with stock one). With my shaved heads, the resultant compression will be higher than 11.1.
4) Forged H Beams con rods with ARP rod bolts balanced to plus minus 1 gram.
5) Carbon/Kelvar Clutch Kit which can withstand up to 350hp.
6) Lightweight billet steel flywheel abt 4.2Kg.
7) Cometic Head Gaskets default thickness.
regrinded lanos/Aveo 1.6 camshaft to 285 profile exhaust and intake cams with higher lifts than standard lanos/Aveo 1.6 camshaft. (stock 1.4 camshafts have abt 1.1mm lower lift than stock 1.6 camshafts)
9) 11) ARP Flywheel bolts
10) strengthed head bolts
11) AEM cold air intake system
12)adjustable venier cams pulley
My questions are:
1) with the bigger stroke that I am having with the new 1.6 crankshaft compared to my 1.4 crankshaft, will the pistons pop out of the block at the tdc? Is it alright to pop out or do I need any block extension or shorter con rods to prevent this?
2) Whats the minimum clearence I need between the valves and pistons when they are at tdc?
3) Is lightening the crankshaft important? I see that the original 1.6 crankshaft looks quite bulky at the flaps and weighs 12-13 kg. Is it too heavy? Should I grind the flaps to be sharper so that it can redue some weight and cut through the oil sump with less drag?
4) Is the 1.4 crankshaft bearing the same as 1.6 crankshaft bearing? Do I need to change a set of bearing when I reassemble the engine? Or can use back the old one?
5) After shaved the head by 2mm, compression rised from stock 9.0 to 11.2 since 2mm is shaved off from the head with 73.4mm stroke. Now I add in this dome pistons which is 11.1:1 compression for stock head, what will be the new compression by calculation?
6) With the new compression and displacement, can I still drive to my Unichip tuner at low speed without damaging anything? How slow should I drive to prevent damage during this 10-15km ride to the tuner.
I have more questions to come. Hope the experts can share with me. I do wish to strip everything then discover I lack some parts.
I am starting on my NA project soon.
Original set up now:
1) Stock 1.4 DOHC 1398cc Chevy Aveo Engine with Ecotec II, twin cam 16 valves. (Bore 77.9mm X 73.4mm stroke) with UNICHIP Q+ piggyback computer
2) Walbro Fuel Pump
3) SARD Fuel Regulator set at 55 psi at idle
4) Light weight Crankshaft pulley
5) Ported and polished head with 2mm height shaved off for higher compression (compression ratio increased from 9.0 to 11.2 after shaved off 2mm with stock internal, tuned with UNICHIP)
I had the following list of stuffs:
1) My current set up as above.
2) 1599cc Lanos/Aveo Crankshaft. (81.5mm stroke, lanos/Aveo has 79.0mm bore)
3) 81.0mm oversize bore forged domed pistons with deep valve cuts for high compression (11.1:1 compression pistons for stock head unshaved) It comes with rings (duno which type), and pin (also duno which type flat or pressed and how they compare with stock one). With my shaved heads, the resultant compression will be higher than 11.1.
4) Forged H Beams con rods with ARP rod bolts balanced to plus minus 1 gram.
5) Carbon/Kelvar Clutch Kit which can withstand up to 350hp.
6) Lightweight billet steel flywheel abt 4.2Kg.
7) Cometic Head Gaskets default thickness.
regrinded lanos/Aveo 1.6 camshaft to 285 profile exhaust and intake cams with higher lifts than standard lanos/Aveo 1.6 camshaft. (stock 1.4 camshafts have abt 1.1mm lower lift than stock 1.6 camshafts)
9) 11) ARP Flywheel bolts
10) strengthed head bolts
11) AEM cold air intake system
12)adjustable venier cams pulley
My questions are:
1) with the bigger stroke that I am having with the new 1.6 crankshaft compared to my 1.4 crankshaft, will the pistons pop out of the block at the tdc? Is it alright to pop out or do I need any block extension or shorter con rods to prevent this?
2) Whats the minimum clearence I need between the valves and pistons when they are at tdc?
3) Is lightening the crankshaft important? I see that the original 1.6 crankshaft looks quite bulky at the flaps and weighs 12-13 kg. Is it too heavy? Should I grind the flaps to be sharper so that it can redue some weight and cut through the oil sump with less drag?
4) Is the 1.4 crankshaft bearing the same as 1.6 crankshaft bearing? Do I need to change a set of bearing when I reassemble the engine? Or can use back the old one?
5) After shaved the head by 2mm, compression rised from stock 9.0 to 11.2 since 2mm is shaved off from the head with 73.4mm stroke. Now I add in this dome pistons which is 11.1:1 compression for stock head, what will be the new compression by calculation?
6) With the new compression and displacement, can I still drive to my Unichip tuner at low speed without damaging anything? How slow should I drive to prevent damage during this 10-15km ride to the tuner.
I have more questions to come. Hope the experts can share with me. I do wish to strip everything then discover I lack some parts.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Well, I have to admit I have absolutely zero knowledge about the 1.4L
When the 2.0L was stroked to 2.2L they made the deck height (top of the block) taller to compensate ( I belive the difference is 1cm )
So it's possible that the 1.6L and 1.4L block are different.
The piston edge should not come out above the top of the block.... and as far as clearance... it's hard to say I don't know if the 1.4L head is the same as the 1.6L
Personally I would have started out with an Opel or Daewoo 1.6L ( 8v or 16V ) block and go from there.
When the 2.0L was stroked to 2.2L they made the deck height (top of the block) taller to compensate ( I belive the difference is 1cm )
So it's possible that the 1.6L and 1.4L block are different.
The piston edge should not come out above the top of the block.... and as far as clearance... it's hard to say I don't know if the 1.4L head is the same as the 1.6L
Personally I would have started out with an Opel or Daewoo 1.6L ( 8v or 16V ) block and go from there.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Hi,
I think the 1.4 DOHC have 9.0 compression ratio. The 1.6DOHC have 9.5 compression ratio.
Using same block, the 1.6 with about 81.5 - 73.4 = 8.1mm extra stroke, the piston should go higher by 8.1 / 2 = 4.05mm and go lower by 4.05mm.
That is why I am worry, whether the piston will come out of the block. Normally does stroker kit comes with shorter con rods? The new con rod I am using is from C16XE opel 1.6 engine. Which have same rod length as all Daewoo/ Aveo 1.4, 1.6 engine.
I think the 1.4 DOHC have 9.0 compression ratio. The 1.6DOHC have 9.5 compression ratio.
Using same block, the 1.6 with about 81.5 - 73.4 = 8.1mm extra stroke, the piston should go higher by 8.1 / 2 = 4.05mm and go lower by 4.05mm.
That is why I am worry, whether the piston will come out of the block. Normally does stroker kit comes with shorter con rods? The new con rod I am using is from C16XE opel 1.6 engine. Which have same rod length as all Daewoo/ Aveo 1.4, 1.6 engine.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
If the C16XE rods are the same length as the rods out of your 1.4L then the next thing you need to check is the piston pin position between the 1.6L and 1.4L pistons.
You may find that the hole where the piston pin (pin connecting piston to connnecting rod ) is in a different position.
If this is the case and your using high compression 1.6L pistons then you will have significant problems.
You can't adjust this position on the piston..... so you would either need to find a different set of pistons with the right compression height or have some pistons custom made.
You may find that the hole where the piston pin (pin connecting piston to connnecting rod ) is in a different position.
If this is the case and your using high compression 1.6L pistons then you will have significant problems.
You can't adjust this position on the piston..... so you would either need to find a different set of pistons with the right compression height or have some pistons custom made.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
thanks so much
Hi,PrecisionBoost wrote:If the C16XE rods are the same length as the rods out of your 1.4L then the next thing you need to check is the piston pin position between the 1.6L and 1.4L pistons.
You may find that the hole where the piston pin (pin connecting piston to connnecting rod ) is in a different position.
If this is the case and your using high compression 1.6L pistons then you will have significant problems.
You can't adjust this position on the piston..... so you would either need to find a different set of pistons with the right compression height or have some pistons custom made.
this is sure good info abt the piston pin location. Seriously, I do not know whether the pin location is the same for both pistons.
I got the Lanos 1.6 pistons which should be the same as Aveo 1.6 pistons. So far the part number for aveo 1.4, 1.6, lanos 1.4, 1.6 con rod rods are the same. So I hope the lanos 1.6 and aveo 1.6 pistons have same pin location.
Logically the 1.6 pin should be higher than 1.4 pin on the pistion. So I hope it would still be flush when the piston reach tdc.
Aveo 1.7M DOHC