so i have the option to buy a custom header
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
so i have the option to buy a custom header
but the outlet diameter is 3"
I have a chevy aveo, and i have my exhaust at 2"
having a header diameter at 3" and an exhaust at 2" isnt the best is it?
do you think i should buy it ($250 shipped), or should I wait to see if kinkymotors is ever going to build one (which he keeps saying he is, but it never happens). The header is well built, but im only concerned with the 3" outlet diameter...
what should i do?
I have a chevy aveo, and i have my exhaust at 2"
having a header diameter at 3" and an exhaust at 2" isnt the best is it?
do you think i should buy it ($250 shipped), or should I wait to see if kinkymotors is ever going to build one (which he keeps saying he is, but it never happens). The header is well built, but im only concerned with the 3" outlet diameter...
what should i do?
- PrecisionBoost
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You will be fine with a 3" outlet.... just go to a performance store and get an adaptor
Perhaps you will want to upgrade the rest of your exhaust at a later date to 2.5" ( which will definitly release some horsepower )
Is it a stainless header or a mild steel header?
$250 shipped is a very decent price
Perhaps you will want to upgrade the rest of your exhaust at a later date to 2.5" ( which will definitly release some horsepower )
Is it a stainless header or a mild steel header?
$250 shipped is a very decent price
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
I also can buy this for $140
do you think it will be worth $140 to upgrade from this?
the one I have now is custom made from a civic.. the piping is bigger than the throttle body, where as the AEM is the same size as the TB.
Worth it or not?
I dont think Id see that much of a difference, but id like to know what you guys think...
do you think it will be worth $140 to upgrade from this?
the one I have now is custom made from a civic.. the piping is bigger than the throttle body, where as the AEM is the same size as the TB.
Worth it or not?
I dont think Id see that much of a difference, but id like to know what you guys think...
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- PrecisionBoost
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- moron
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If it is stainless I'd be careful...
1. There is surface rust on the flange... this means it's either a very low grade stainless (Chinese crap) or it's just plain mild steel
2. There is contamination/rust in the weld beads... this means the welder used teh wrong procedure or filler for the metal. Yet again, stainless wouldn't do this unless low grade, or it just isn't stainless.
From looking at the material and the welding, it looks like it is mild steel. The striations on the pipe and on the collector piece look like aluminized steel to me. This is further supported by the weld contamination (it isn't possible to weld aluminized steel without contamination because the aluminum/silicon burns and displaces the shielding gas).
In the long run, you'd be better off with mild anyway. Stainless has a huge thermal expansion coefficient meaning it would warp (not maybe, it will... just give it time) and it also doesn't hold heat well. As a small performance upgrade, you'd be getting more for your money with a mild, and based on the price, that's what this is.
Yes, BBQ paint will peel off. If you want a permanent solution, paint it with a high grade caliper paint (NOT aerosol) or have it ceramic coated... both of which are types of enamel
1. There is surface rust on the flange... this means it's either a very low grade stainless (Chinese crap) or it's just plain mild steel
2. There is contamination/rust in the weld beads... this means the welder used teh wrong procedure or filler for the metal. Yet again, stainless wouldn't do this unless low grade, or it just isn't stainless.
From looking at the material and the welding, it looks like it is mild steel. The striations on the pipe and on the collector piece look like aluminized steel to me. This is further supported by the weld contamination (it isn't possible to weld aluminized steel without contamination because the aluminum/silicon burns and displaces the shielding gas).
In the long run, you'd be better off with mild anyway. Stainless has a huge thermal expansion coefficient meaning it would warp (not maybe, it will... just give it time) and it also doesn't hold heat well. As a small performance upgrade, you'd be getting more for your money with a mild, and based on the price, that's what this is.
Yes, BBQ paint will peel off. If you want a permanent solution, paint it with a high grade caliper paint (NOT aerosol) or have it ceramic coated... both of which are types of enamel
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- moron
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The primary gas that's coming from your exhaust is water. Mild steel rusts. When you open the pores of the metal with great heat and throw water into it, it will rust. This is why exhaust tubing is aluminized.
If you get a mild header, have it coated inside and out.
The aluminized steel in that manifold would do fine for its lifetime.
If you get a mild header, have it coated inside and out.
The aluminized steel in that manifold would do fine for its lifetime.