SMT-6 question(s)

[kinkyllama]

This really sounds like your car is completly dieing..... you need to have someone check for current draw..... it's possible that you have some sort of major power draw and it's killing everything.

You should immediatly disconnect all audio amplifiers and and or any wiring going to the audio system.

Alternatively if you have a fuse that links the audio system to the primary power system, remove it ( make sure you disconnnect the battery first)

If you have a car audio problem or an issue with a second battery it's possible that you've pulled too much current and damaged the alternator

First off.... measure the voltage of the battery before you start up the car

Then start up the car and see what the voltage is.

Then shut the car down and monitor the voltage for the 5 minutes after shutting down.

If you have a mulitmeter.... check and see if you get anything accross the battery terminals if you switch the multi meter to AC

I'm almost wondering if your charging system is putting out a partial AC voltage instead of a straight DC voltage.

Basicly the alternator creates AC voltage and it's output converted down to roughly 14.4 DC volts.

If the regulator/rectifier circuit is damaged then it's possible that it might be putting out partial DC and partial AC

I dissconnected both my stereo amps and have my head unit turned off, and I disconnected my turbo timer. The battery seams to be lasting a little bit longer, even before I did that though so I don't know whats going on. We did check the voltage around 30mins after the car was turned off and it still read well, turned on the car and the alternator seams strong.

I scanned the CEL just to be sure nothing else came up and got a buncha codes, two EVAC codes, two o2 sensor codes, two cam shaft sensor codes, and I think something about the intake sensor. I'm not sure about all these though as I had my friend scan it and clear them when I wasn't around and thats the codes he remembered. Due to all the stuff I've done to the car recently (like remove the o2 sensors for awhile) we reset all the codes and I'll go back later tonight to see what comes up and write it all down

Don't know anyone with a multimeter or anything like that so I'll see if I can track something down. If I don't find something by next week sometime I'm going to pay my friend at his shop to figure everything out cuz even after I get everything running I still have allot to do before I can take it back out to the track (new BBK, wheels, motor mounts, fender work, ect...).

My SSPS light came on yesterday for about two mins and was off when I restarted the car. Not sure what that's all about but I have had a slow power steering leak somewhere for a couple months.

Danny

[PrecisionBoost]

You should buy that clamp type meter I showed you on Ebay.... it's a really good investment for anyone who is into working on cars and car audio because it will let you see exactly how much power is going to each amplifier and how much loss your getting through your charging and capacitor system.

You should also be able to find an AC/DC clamp meter with other standard funtions such as resistance and voltage.

Personally I'd get one that does everything..... but be carefull....it must say that it measures DC amperage.... lots of them only measure AC amperage which won't work for automotive purposes.

[kinkyllama]

I haven't really had a chance to do anything else with this but I changing my brakes and realized the driver side wheel has a ton more resisitance than the passanger side which reminded me I have an OEM passanger side driver axle and heavy duty aftermarket driver side. I had a heavy duty passager side one as well but it obviously didn't fit since it broke within a few miles and we never put the OEM driver back on....could this be my power/rpm issue?

[PrecisionBoost]

I'm confused...... you say that the Group N axle on the driver side is causing a situation where the wheel won't turn as freely?

Dude.... axles should have absolutely zero to do with rolling resistance.... take that axle out ASAP and get the factory one back in !!!!!!

If there is resistance I have to think one of two things.... either the axle is not the right size and it's grabbing on something.... or they torqued the axles on way too hard ( damaging the wheel bearing )

The way you say "it obviously didn't fit" concerns me..... didn't they compare the new axle length to the old axle length before installing it?

I still can't belive that the Group N axle broke like that.... did you tell the shop that the axles were from a different car and that they need to compare the length????

Hmmm.... if they torqued the wheel bearing on the passenger side on so hard that the wheel wouldn't turn freely it's possible that it could have been the reason for the failure of the axle.

[kinkyllama]

I'm confused...... you say that the Group N axle on the driver side is causing a situation where the wheel won't turn as freely?

Dude.... axles should have absolutely zero to do with rolling resistance.... take that axle out ASAP and get the factory one back in !!!!!!

If there is resistance I have to think one of two things.... either the axle is not the right size and it's grabbing on something.... or they torqued the axles on way too hard ( damaging the wheel bearing )

The way you say "it obviously didn't fit" concerns me..... didn't they compare the new axle length to the old axle length before installing it?

I still can't belive that the Group N axle broke like that.... did you tell the shop that the axles were from a different car and that they need to compare the length????

Hmmm.... if they torqued the wheel bearing on the passenger side on so hard that the wheel wouldn't turn freely it's possible that it could have been the reason for the failure of the axle.

Are you saying the front wheels should spin as easily as the rear ones? (i.e. axles shouldn't give ANY resistance?)

I don't know what the shop did, I asked them to make sure they fit before installing, but who knows if they did. Other times I've delt with the shop I've had good experiances, and have heard good things but honestly it seamed like they didn't care much about anyone that didn't own a 100k+ car.

[PrecisionBoost]

I'm not sure about back versus front, I'm sure the backs would be easier to spin since they have less mass to rotate

The fronts would be rotating the axles and the tranny in neutral so they should have more resistance than the back.

But side to side in the front should be pretty much the same.



The main point I was trying to make is that the group N axles should rotate exactly the same way as the stock ones did.

If they don't then there is something wrong..... either they are too long (which would explain the immediate destruction of the passenger side) or they didn't torque the wheel bearings correctly.

My opinion is that the size is incorrect.... it's one of those things where you need to compare the two axles side by side.

I would also assume (althought I admit to not knowing) that the joints must be at the same point on both sets of drive shafts.... if not your hub/strut would put massive pressure on the joint and snap it once you went around a corner hard.


The more you go on with this project the more I think you would have been way better off simply coming up here and having Tom and I do the upgrades with you.... we probably could have had your car up and running on a turbo with the F28 inside of a week.

Sure we are far away, but it's cost you a pile of money in repairs/broken parts and your car has been running like crap.

[kinkyllama]

If they don't then there is something wrong..... either they are too long (which would explain the immediate destruction of the passenger side) or they didn't torque the wheel bearings correctly.

My opinion is that the size is incorrect.... it's one of those things where you need to compare the two axles side by side.

I would also assume (althought I admit to not knowing) that the joints must be at the same point on both sets of drive shafts.... if not your hub/strut would put massive pressure on the joint and snap it once you went around a corner hard.


The more you go on with this project the more I think you would have been way better off simply coming up here and having Tom and I do the upgrades with you.... we probably could have had your car up and running on a turbo with the F28 inside of a week.

Sure we are far away, but it's cost you a pile of money in repairs/broken parts and your car has been running like crap.

While I wait till I can get it changed out to stock how do I retorque them? and to what ft-lbs?

Is there any trick to seeing if it's leaking from the axle seals? Or just cleaning them up real good and looking for cracks/leaking?

How soon are you going to be able to order new ones? Or would you like me to figure that out if your on a tight schedual now.

I really wish I did that, but at the time I was working 7 days a week and that would have hurt me pretty bad to take all that time off.

Have you heard for sure Matheus has closed up? He owes me 4 clutch kits and sent me the wrong one for my F28 (for dish type flywheel instead of flat). He hasn't replyied to my email after almost a weak...

Oh and did you ever get my email? I'd like to settle what we owe each other, and I almost have the BBK ready.

Cheers,
Danny

[kinkyllama]

hmm, I just found a penny in one of my electrical outlet things and it no longer works now...think that could have caused any of my problems? No idea how long it has been in there, the bottom outlet isn't very easy to see and theres probably been tons of change in it over the last year since my radar detector hasn't been plugged in.

[daewoomofo]

that could be part of the chargeing issues you have had

[PrecisionBoost]

Tighten to 111 lb ft then loosen then tighten again to 203 lb ft

If they did damage the wheel bearing then odds are you will have to replace it..... which is a pain.... personally I'd just spend the $75 for the entire hub assembly.... but that's me... I don't like to screw around with things if they are cheap enough.

Other torque values needed..... steering knuckle to strut bolts/nuts should be torqued to 89 lb ft

Ball joint pinch nut to 44 lb ft



I sent you an email about settling up money..... I was still waiting on the cost of shipping to add to the other items.

I'm pretty sure your out of luck with Matheus.... that's too bad.... now I'll have to get a clutch from the UK.

I keep forgetting to ask Tom about the best place to get the seals.... I'm sure I could dig it up if he doesn't know off hand.

Perhaps I'll pick up three sets, I'm pretty sure they are fairly cheap ( $20 or so??? or perhaps it was 20 GBP... can't remember )

I can't guarantee that's the issue with the leaking..... but it's definitly a good posibility.


As far as the penny.... yes.... that could severly screw up your electrical system and cause a drain on the battery.... but I would have thought it would blow a fuse to be honest.

[kinkyllama]

Tighten to 111 lb ft then loosen then tighten again to 203 lb ft

If they did damage the wheel bearing then odds are you will have to replace it..... which is a pain.... personally I'd just spend the $75 for the entire hub assembly.... but that's me... I don't like to screw around with things if they are cheap enough.

Other torque values needed..... steering knuckle to strut bolts/nuts should be torqued to 89 lb ft

Ball joint pinch nut to 44 lb ft



I sent you an email about settling up money..... I was still waiting on the cost of shipping to add to the other items.

I'm pretty sure your out of luck with Matheus.... that's too bad.... now I'll have to get a clutch from the UK.

I keep forgetting to ask Tom about the best place to get the seals.... I'm sure I could dig it up if he doesn't know off hand.

Perhaps I'll pick up three sets, I'm pretty sure they are fairly cheap ( $20 or so??? or perhaps it was 20 GBP... can't remember )

I can't guarantee that's the issue with the leaking..... but it's definitly a good posibility.


As far as the penny.... yes.... that could severly screw up your electrical system and cause a drain on the battery.... but I would have thought it would blow a fuse to be honest.

203ft-lbs? you sure? Where can I even find a torque wrench that goes that high? No1 I know, or any of the shops around here have them, I know cause I needed one a little higher than that for my brothers lift kit on his truck I bought him a year ago.

Well even if it doesn't fix the leak it's worth doing, esp since I have to replace the one drive axle.

Well the penny has been out and I'm still having issues, but by now the batter could just be dead since it's a normal one and has already been completly drained 10+ times.