exist3nce wrote:I know there hasn't been much new lately with my project, but I haven't had very much money over the summer. That is starting to change now, so there should be come new stuff coming soon.
Heres the things I would like to do in the coming months:
6 Spd F28 swap
KW coilovers
BMS sway bars
also since winter is coming..............need some snow tires
Aside from that, the car has been running great with just maintenance such as oil changes etc. Couple small issues like exhaust leak, but I removed the manifold and turbo and flattened out the flanges and re-sealed everything. Also couple small cracks in the manifold, which I got my buddy to TIG weld them.
You should add strut braces, and some other suspension peices I'm making to that list (won't tell ya guys till they're almost done). By the time you find an F28 and get it I should have it all done.
Also you should get the BMS stuff through me, same price, only you help me out too. FYI I'd start on the coil-overs asap too cuz BMS probably doesn't have them in stock and last I talked to them they weren't sure if they're were any left in the Country which means they could easily take a month to get.
Well I'm not in a huge hurry to get the expensive suspension stuff since I don't have the money *yet*, so if it takes a month, thats fine.
In regards to the F28, I was hoping you could help me find one. I remember you saying at some point you could get them, along with whats needed to convert to hydraulic clutch.
Will I have to buy a new clutch disc and pressure to use with this trans? I have your 6 puck ceramic and 1200lbs combo with stock flywheel right now.
exist3nce wrote:Well I'm not in a huge hurry to get the expensive suspension stuff since I don't have the money *yet*, so if it takes a month, thats fine.
In regards to the F28, I was hoping you could help me find one. I remember you saying at some point you could get them, along with whats needed to convert to hydraulic clutch.
Will I have to buy a new clutch disc and pressure to use with this trans? I have your 6 puck ceramic and 1200lbs combo with stock flywheel right now.
Yeah I'll point you in the right direction, the best place to get them (unless you wanna pay a crap load) is the UK forums classfieds, then front there you gotta find one with the price/miles/condition you want, then talk to seller into shipping it. USE ONLY PARCEL TO GO to ship it, they gave me a huge hassle and the seller spend a good 2 hours working with them but they saved us $275 from anyone else. Then I'll get you the slave unless you find a better price, I really have no idea how good my price is, I think its $200 though.
Uhh, I think the pressureplate works for either one, or maybe it's the disc. One will work, the other won't.
In the initial turbo kit install, my intake air temperature sensor was put into to the intake side of the turbo. This is not ideal but provided a quick solution. At the advice of my tuner, we decided to relocate it into the charge pipe after the intercooler to get a much more accurate reading. It will help to provide a little bit more air temp based fuel and ignition correction as the winter approaches. It took some creative thinking, but my shop managed to think of a good way to mount the IAT. Heres some pics:
Heres a pic of the final product, installed. Also I've covered up all of the shiny pipes to make the whole setup more stealthy.
Heres a pic of my shop's single turbo Supra on the Dynapack
I've been wanting to do this for a while, finally got around to it. I would reccommend this to anyone looking for a reliable, accurate and fast responding water temp gauge.
I decided to change things up a bit and route the wastegate back into the exhaust. We spent a few hours grinding and welding to make a nice smooth side merge
Looking good Jason! I feel you will definitely pick up some minor HP with the new exhaust setup over the previous design. And seems the guys from Dynamotorsports know what they are doing - shop pics are nice.
If you find that over time the dump pipe from the external wastegate starts to crack, you should consider installing small flexpipe instead of fixed design. Heat expansion/contraction may stress is out with time and cause cracking, especially during the winter.
I will post up some dyno graphs when I have a chance, but it looks like switching from the crush bent 2.25" piping to the 2.5" mandrel bent pipe gained me 500 - 600 RPM of spool. With trying to keep the torque at/below 200 ft lbs we had to lower the boost down a bit so it basically produces the same power as before with 1 - 1.5 PSI less boost. I didn't really want faster spool and more torque..... ideas of a larger turbo are working their way into my head lol.
I will post up some dyno graphs when I have a chance, but it looks like switching from the crush bent 2.25" piping to the 2.5" mandrel bent pipe gained me 500 - 600 RPM of spool. With trying to keep the torque at/below 200 ft lbs we had to lower the boost down a bit so it basically produces the same power as before with 1 - 1.5 PSI less boost. I didn't really want faster spool and more torque..... ideas of a larger turbo are working their way into my head lol.
Do it! more booost!
...after the F28.
How's it sound compared to the old exhaust setup anyways? Do you think the piping size had much of an influence with the turbo'd engine?
How's it sound compared to the old exhaust setup anyways? Do you think the piping size had much of an influence with the turbo'd engine?
Believe me I want to, I know the motor can take it. If it weren't for this transmission I could easily run 240whp, and maybe more (I'd have to keep pushing it to see HOW much more lol). As I said the piping alone from a 2.25" crush bent catback to a mandrel 2.5" gained about 600rpm of spool. There were power gains too no doubt, but we had to turn down the boost a bit to stay under 200 ft lbs.
For reference, this is how it sounded with the old exhaust and external w/g dump.
