naznomad wrote:Just put the new filter in,and I managed to get the car started,although it won't start every time,but it coughs and stalls when i only have slight pressure on the gas pedal.If I put my foot down it revs along nicely.A also noticed that the inlet pipe(I think its the inlet) kinks badly when the filter is set in its holder. I took a pic of the bit that bends. I left it off the holder dlip so that the pipe could be straighter,but it didnt make any difference. In the pic you can see the point where it bends,(white arrow) even though it shows straighter in the pic because it's not set in its correct position.Once i set it in its holder,it bends to almost a right angle.
Well It's better than it was,at least it starts,but why does it cough and splutter at low revs ?
Good news ! your engine itself is fine!
BUT !......
You may have damaged the inlet fuel line when you removed the old filter.
Hard to tell in the photo but it SHOULD NOT be "kinked"
A built in "sweep bend" is fine though.
If you have to replace that line? you should be able to get one from Daewoo. I bought one from them once and yes, I wrecked my original line when I removed my first filter.
Was the old filter held on with a metal clip or a plastic one? And did the new filter have plastic or metal ? If you use plastic ( Fram and AutoZone filters have plastic clips) You will never have a problem again.......Plastic Wins!
Once you know for sure your getting a good inlet flow to the filter and you still have the problem ? It can only be one of the things that has been suggested by (see page 1) forum members.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Thanks Spider,yeah the pic does not show pipe in it's bent/kinked state,although you can see the crease mark on the pipe where the kink happens once it is set in place.
What I did was just left the filter dangling so the pipe would not be kinked,and then tried to start the engine. It does not seem to make any difference.
Weird that it revs up fine once it starts, (though it won't start every time) but it wont idle,it just dies if i leave my foot off the gas pedal.
If i disconnect the filter again,and have someone turn the engine over ,I can see if gas comes through the pipe or not. Obviously i would have to catch the gas in a cup or whatever so it doesn't go all over the place.
And yeah the new filter came with 2 little plastic clips that snap into the pipe,the old filter had a plastic one on the outlet,and also on the inlet,but I had to break that plastic one to get it off.Then i saw a kind of 4-pronged metal clip in the pipe too,but it looks like it is set in there,ie,not removeable. I'll try to get a pic of that.
And I still have to re-check the plugs,I didnt have time today,I need a second person to start it while i check for sparks.
Its been a while but I believe you need to get rid of the metal clip completely. It's just taking up space now.
And it could be keeping the filter/gas line from having a tight connection.
Hopefully, someone will verify this?
Also, if your sure the line is kinked ? Replace it dude.
Even if the filter is getting fuel (when not in it's bracket) you have an unsafe condition where eventually the kink will become a crack
and shoot gas.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
PrecisionBoost wrote:
The other thing it could be is a dead fuel pump or a fuel pump relay.... both will end up doing the same thing.
PB,if it were either of these 2 things,would any fuel get through at all? There is fuel getting through somewhat,because the engine will start (just won't idle!),so I can eliminate these 2 things if i know that no fuel should get through if either of them are kaput.
If the relay is out/bad? No electricity ! No fuel pump action whatsoever.
If the pump is going bad ? You could still get some action but a weak flow resulting in poor running, etc.
Try this:
Turn your ignition key to "on:" (don't start) you can hear the fuel pump working for a few seconds and than shut off.
It's supposed to do that.
This test will tell you if its getting power but it won't tell you if you have a good pump.
You can do a fuel pressure test or have one done if you don't have a gauge.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Hey Naznomad, have you had any luck with this problem?
I have a very similar issue with my Lanos 2002. It cut out a while back whilst on the dual carriageway. Since then I wasted a load of cash at 2 different garages and now it won't start - well, occsionally it will start but cuts out when you stop revving instead of idling.
The last garage came up with a trouble code (will look it up) that said problem with Sync between CKP and CMP. They couldn't take it any further as they didn't have enough info on the Daewoo wiring (well, at least that's what they said).
I'm going to start looking into all this myself but I haven't done any car mechanics before so gonna be a slow process.
Well I changed the fuel pump motor about 3 weeks ago and it seemed it was that causing the problem. it now runs as before although it is a bit of a pig to start. Sometimes I will try about a dozen times before it eventually splutters to get going,other times it starts in just 2 or 3 tries. And it seems that it starts sooner now that the weather has cooled down.
Also,randomly,the engine will just die while i am sitting at traffic lights. No warning,its idling fine,and then just stops as if i turned of the ignition. Starts right back up though. this only happens when idling at traffic lights,not while driving along,and always just as the light is about to go green and I have cars behind me ! Weird damn car. Gas mileage is still good,getting 35-40 to the gallon. It was a bitch driving my Mustang while this one was out of action,the gas mileage sucks on that thing.
