Lanos Fuel Pressure. What should it read ?

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naznomad
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Lanos Fuel Pressure. What should it read ?

Post by naznomad »

OK,what is the normal range that the fuel pump pressure should be in? I've been tinkering around and I am getting fuel through at the fuel rail(Schrader valve),but not sure if enough is coming out. How much pressure should it be under at that valve?It squirts out about 4 inches,should it be a lot more than that?
It also squirts out of the injectors,I took off the fuel rail and cranked it,and they all squirted. (Onto a rag,not the engine!!) Again,I don't know how much of a squirt that should be.
So if I know the correct fuel pressure readings to look at,I can have someone test it for me.

Car will start(not all of the time) and gets enough fuel to rev up while in Park,but does not like to idle. But as soon as I put it in drive,the car barely moves,as if it is not getting enough fuel to power it.

Chenged plugs and leads also,but that has not had a noticeable effect.

At this point I'm so annoyed I'm hoping its the fuel pump,just so that I know for sure what the problem is !
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Post by Audacity Racing »

I don't have a Lanos manual handy (nor winrar to open the manual online), but the Aveo is supposed to be 55-57PSI during fuel pump priming (key in the ON position)
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Post by Spider »

Lanos 1.6 DOHC, per manual, fuel pressure= 41-47 psi (284-325 kPa)

Your not getting a CEL are you ?
I'm looking in the manual and see a lot of references to EGR and MAP also possible leaking injector/s.. bad sparkplugs, plug wire routing, coil pack output, and all electrical grounds are also mentioned.

Most of this is under: "Cuts Out, Misses" (in book 1, ~section 1F 456 and 457)

don't give up
:)
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
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mezomaster
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Post by mezomaster »

the pump pressure should be about 5bar just right after the pump and about 3bar after the fuel filter (in the fuel rail) and if it only squirts for 4 inches then that means the pump is really weak as it should squirts too far and rough
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
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naznomad
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Post by naznomad »

mezomaster wrote:the pump pressure should be about 5bar just right after the pump and about 3bar after the fuel filter (in the fuel rail) and if it only squirts for 4 inches then that means the pump is really weak as it should squirts too far and rough
Dodgy pump would explain a lot i guess.
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Post by mezomaster »

yup ;)
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
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naznomad
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Post by naznomad »

And I forgot to ask,where is the fuel pump located,is it under the firewall or back by the fuel tank?
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mezomaster
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Post by mezomaster »

the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank, remove the back seat and u will find the pump under a black plastic cover, remove it then remove the pump
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
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naznomad
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Post by naznomad »

Ok got it. Will this pump fit? It says it will but want to make sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-WALB ... enameZWD1V
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Spider
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safety 1st

Post by Spider »

Please, be sure to.....

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before you start working on it.


And....
No smoking allowed !


:)
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
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- -- Thomas Edison
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mezomaster
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Post by mezomaster »

this one will fit, but i would suggest another pump, its not OEM cuz daewoo fuel pumps easially got busted, i would prefere to use any fit OPEL fuel pump (BOSCH) it will live longer, actually most of pumps would be suitable in two conditions, if its a direct fit pump, if its generating 5bar fuel pressure to the lines...

but if u couldnt, this one will be cool ;)
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
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naznomad
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Post by naznomad »

Spider,me no smoke,so no prob there !!

Mez,yeah I need something quick to get this taken care of,so options are limited !!!
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Spider
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Post by Spider »

naznomad wrote:Spider,me no smoke,so no prob there !!...............
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Yeah I know your a "safety" type person. I wrote that for "new" mechanics. :roll:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


If you can't find the right BOSCH pump ? (which by the way, Mezomaster, sounds great !!!)

Another option:
Check on AutoZone ONLINE STORE SHOPPING ONLY... (you can't get one from your local store.)
http://www.autozone.com/home.htm

Yes, it's high priced.
But........
It has a one year warranty, a strainer, weighs over two pounds and is probably top of the line.
A/Z can be trusted.
(And no, I don't own stock in AutoZone or work for them) :lol:


Following is a copy/paste from the online store:
------------------------------------------------------
Master / Fuel Pump
for a 2000 Daewoo Lanos

About this product:
Part Number: E8514M
Weight: 2.42 lbs.
Warranty: 1 YR
Note: Complete fuel pump module assembly and strainer
Pricing:
$190.99 <-----------------USD

Availability:
Online: Ships within 2 business days
--------------------------------------------------
Whatever you decide?....Good Luck !

:)
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________

"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
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naznomad
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Post by naznomad »

I don't know whether to spring for the whole assembly or just the actual pump. AGH.
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Spider
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Post by Spider »

Choices, choices.....

I wonder if you could remove the old existing pump, take it someplace and have it tested ? I have 121K miles on my original pump and it's still going strong. So, just maybe the strainer is clogged or a line is kinked or something ?


If me and I was absolutely positive it was the fuel pump thats causing the problem..
I would go for the AutoZone pump...even though it cost so much more than the 75 dollar one (which could also be ok ?)

My reasoning for the A/Z pump is this...A/Z usually has fair pricing and good warranty's.
The parts they sell are generally of good quality.
I'm also thinking if (for some reason it didn't work) you could return it for refund ?

Bottom line ?

It's your money and your call :lol:

P.S. Maybe wait a day and see what other forum members advise as well.
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________

"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
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