Right tried in vain to start her up and then left it on and put in the paper clip and these are the error codes i now get
Error code 7
Then
Error code 61
im gonna see check the wiring to the fuse box this afternoon and see it thats all ok aswell
Thanks Turtle_Wax & PrecisionBoost
EDIT after several attempts of using the Search button and reading the pdf .... NO WHERE SAYS ERROR CODE 7 OR 61 lol any one able to shed some light on these codes please
Well I've not seen a code 7 before. The lowest number code I've seen on any chart starts at 12. (unless perhaps it indicates the ignition is on during the test?) I can't find any specific reference to the Daewoo ALDL codes but according to http://www.topbuzz.co.uk That details the different Vauxhall GM systems which the lanos shares. A pdf list of codes for the GM system http://astra.autokacik.pl/download/aldl.pdf
Code 61 refers to a fuel tank vent valve low voltage. I'm not sure what this fuel tank vent valve is or whether or not the lanos has one but as your engines starts then dies it does sound like it could be fuel related. Normally when you switch on ign you hear the fuel pump in the tank whirr for a couple of secs as it pressurises the system. Perhaps it's the initial fuel pressurisation when you switch on ign allowing just enough fuel in the rail / injectors to start the engine but then immediately dies because something has shut of the fuel system. If code 61 gives a fault somewhere on the fuel system then at least it's a starting point. I'll see if I can find anything on this vent valve.
Ok I have just had a look through the Lanos service manual pdf. If you look at the "Index.pdf" it lists all the diagnostic trouble codes.
Code 7 is either "EGR on/off solenoid low" (see page 1F-126) Or
"Passenger airbag firing circuit, short to ground". (see page 8B-22)
I think the above will show error code 7 because you tested with the ignition on, so nothing to worry about. In any case that wouldn't have stopped the engine running and would have cleared when ign switched off.
Code 61 is the "Controlled canister purge solenoid shorted to ground" (see page 1F-252)
The description of code 61 sounds like it could be related to your problem but again I'm not sure if code 61 is displayed because it is a fault or because like code 7 you tested with the ignition on?
What I can do is test my error codes with the ign on and see if code 61 is displayed. At least then you'll know if it's the fault or not. It'll probably take me a while to get around to it but will let you know later.
Ok I've checked my ALDL for error codes. I had some codes already stored that I never cleared, but apart from the ones already in memory I could not get code 7 or 61 or any other code when checking with the ignition already on. I even started the engine and stopped it by disconnecting the coil pack so I could check the codes without turning off ign but got no other error codes. Only thing I can suggest is check the wiring to the ecu and follow the test procedures described in the service manual for every error code you get.
For 61
Thanks for all your help.. im gonna have a look on Saturday and i'll post and let you know how it goes as im out all day tomorrow so im gonna have to leave it a day..
Wappy wrote:
also just noticed when i turn the key off i can hear a pump (guesing its that) then what sounds like water going into a tank?
Hmmm..... what if your fuel pressure regulator is screwed for some strange reason (would be a wierd coincidence... but you never know )
Normally the fuel pump starts for only a second or two and shuts off.
You really shouldn't hear a sound like water going into a tank.
What if the pump is pushing fuel into the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator is simply letting all that fuel go back into tank.
It would defnintly explain the sound of fluid going back into the tank and it would also explain why your car only starts for a second or two and shuts off (since it does not have enough fuel pressure to keep the car running )
It's just like a lawn mower.... sometimes if you hit the prime button a couple of times the lawn mower will start up and then quickly die as soon as the fuel you've pushed into the system has burned off.... then you press it a few more times and it starts up fine.
I'm not at all familiar with the 1.4L ECU system..... I would have to guess that it does have a fuel pressure sensor.
Anyways... it's just a thought..... might be a good idea to test the fuel pressure in the rail just to see what's going on.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Yeah you shouldn't be hearing any fluid going back to the tank. (or is it perhaps confusing the sound that the fuel pump makes)? Turn on ign and you should hear the pump in the fuel tank activate for 2 secs. Turn off wait 10 secs and turn on again and you should hear it again. If it's definitely fluid your hearing going back to the tank, a simple check would be to unhook the return fuel pipe from the fuel pressure regulator (located on the injector fuel rail) and put a container on the pressure regulator end to catch the fuel as someone starts the engine. If it gushes out that might indicate a failed pressure regulator. If you get a lot of fuel come out the pipe you could also try plugging the regulator return hole and then see if it starts.
Something else occurred to me. You say it starts and then dies. If the ecu is not receiving ignition reference signals it turns off the fuel pump relay circuit within 2 secs of turning on the ign. Does the car start easier if you quickly turn the key to start without leaving it on ignition? I'd try the fuel pump relay circuit check as shown in 1F-56 of the manual.
yea what had happend well as TW pointerd out the errors i read up on them both and noticed BOTH errors are caused by grounding. so i tested the wires to the fuse box and no big errors so took out the fuse box and connectors and couldent see anything so looked a little harder and long behold a small break is some cables, repaired them and... BRUM BRUM she starts
I've checked the error codes but there is nothing there she is as clean as a whistle
Again THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!!!! ITS WAS REALLY APPRECIATED!!!
I'll post some pics of my lanos some time this week as when the car started working my pc died. lol i'm currently righting this from a ubuntu live cd lol
That's great news, well done. A bit of knowledge is a wonderful thing and the satisfaction of fixing things yourself without paying silly money to a professional. Daewoo (or Chevrolet as they're now known over here) would have charged at least £50 just for the privilege of plugging in their fancy machine to tell you what you already know by using a paperclip - And charge another £50+ per hour to fix it + parts. With these kind of annoying faults older cars usually end up in the breakers yard because owners haven't got a clue where to start and a professional would charge more than the cars value.
