Several issues since F28 install, some seam unrelated

[kinkyllama]

I know this isn't doesn't completly belong in this section but it was this or the general section and I thought I'd get allot more responses here

1) The engines a bit lame compared to before. It falls on it's face after 4k rpms and doesn't pull as strong as before even in the lower RPMs. I figure the engine was just getting used to running again but it's been probably 100 miles, first 50 with a bad cam cover gasket though. It also has an occasional burp or two.

2) My battery issue...never got a chance to test the battery but it's too late now anyways. The thing still wouldn't hold a charge, wouldn't even keep the car at idle. I had my alternator tested several months ago when my first optimal battery died, it's putting out very well. Then all of a sudden the battery/electrical system was perfect. Had the A/C on and stereo up high at idle and it handled it beautifully. Then ~70 miles later I turned off my car and it wouldn't start again, the battery was making a loud hissing sound for about 35mins. Also when I tried cranking the ignition it made a very very fast clicking sound (like normal, but 3x faster). Got a new battery and put it in...car ran good except a couple burps here and there and a strange ticking/electric like sound from the battery though it may have been something else as I only drove the car 2 miles with the new battery.

3) Reverse...the car sputters like crazy in reverse but no other gear. It makes it hard to even go backwards and my clutch skills suck since it’s been so long…though they’ve never been amazing from a standstill.

4) Speedometer doesn't work much. It didn’t even come to mind that this might be an issue when switching to the F28. But it does work sometimes, usually when I just start the car and will even work perfectly in the 6th gear but will randomly start twitching and reading approx half my actual speed. It'll do this even if I never put it in 6th gear and seams to be random how long it'll work.


Rambling) It’s very exciting having the first 6speed around here, and in this car….not to mention 6 gears. At approx 50mph in 6th I’m only at 2k rpms. Eventually I got to adjust the shifter linkage some more but that’s not a fun thing to do. 1 out of 50 times when putting it in “reverse” it’ll go into first gear, and 6th gear is a bit tricky to get into but I’m not worried about that cuz I don’t think I’ll ever use 6th gear racing. 3rd gear isn’t very happy though, the sychros don’t seam to be all that great, I’m not too worried about it though cuz I would like to switch to a lightweight flywheel (didn’t have the right clutch in time), I was expecting 3rd to go eventually, and my slave probably won’t last as long as I can get 3rd too. I'll get pictures up after I at least fix my front end and get my camera cord.

Thanks for any bit of help/advice!

[BosnianLanos]

Though I'm not certain about any points I'm going to make, it may be worth checking them out.

1. Sounds like you're experiencing a "boost" leak. Since you don't have a turbo, it can equate to a vacuum leak...a bad one. This could lead to the poor idle, the bad reverse, and the weak pull. Check EVERY line...They may have gotten disconnected during the install and overlooked later. If you don't feel like checking it. Which I wouldn't, go to a mechanic's, pay them $20 cash, and tell them to do a vacuum check. Since a vacuum leak sounds like a loud "Hiss" at idle....It could also be your battery problem. However, my bet is...since it has been sitting for a year, and you more likely than not didn't put in any fuel stabilizer, your fuel lines/fuel filter are gummed up. In bad climates (ARIZONA!) fuel can gum in a matter of weeks, a year would be bad. This could also lead to the strange acceleration surges and reversing issues. Buy 2 new fuel filters (less than $10 each), and 2 cans of concentrated fuel system cleaner. Put a new filter on, run the cleaners through 2 tanks, and then put the newest filter on. I'm betting this will help, if not solve the issue.

2. The heat/your driving style (spirited) might be killing your batteries. Since the chemical process that gives batteries their power is "ideally" designed to last forever (in theory, the electron transfer between the platepacks and the fluid should never stop), the only thing that can kill them is shaking/jarring/sliding that can shift/damage the internal plates and throw off the balance, killing the battery. Also, the only thing that would make it hiss...especially a sealed-type Optima battery is some sort of internal venting issue. My recommendation to you is to go to http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 8_-1_10367, but a solid - track legal battery relocation box so that you can put it in your trunk. Make sure you vent it externally, even though the Optima ideally gives off no gas, but the hissing worries me. Less vibration and a cooler environment might aid in prolonging the life of your batteries, not to mention that it gives a clean install look that clears up the engine bay, and helps with weight distribution. Also consider getting a volt gauge and second battery to run your system...Or just dump the system.

3. Refer to item #1.

4. I don't know why the speedo doesn't work. My guess...since it works half the time, at half the speed, is that you're experiencing some sort of faulty connection. Maybe a shorted wire, loose/corroded connection, faulty speed sensor on the F28, or at worst, an incompatibility between the sensors. Speedometer issues are usually easy to diagnose and correct. Worst case scenario, pull your OEM speedo and sensor, and get an Auto Meter speedometer with a separate speed sensor. The OEM ones aren't terribly accurate (My Lanos says I'm doing 2 mph faster than I really am) and the Auto Meter one 'should' fit (using the in-dash model) and look really good.

Get the linkage adjusted professionally, or just get some custom linkage fabbed up. If you're already several $K deep into a 6-speed European transmission, another few hundred might be well spent. This may even clear up the problem with 6th and alleviate the problem with 3rd. Hopefully it doesn't need a rebuild which would have it sitting for a while waiting for parts. For now, drive it carefully, keep it well-stocked with Royal Purple Fully Synthetic fluid, and learn the intricacies of the clutch and linkage. When I first bought my Lanos (which hadn't even been properly broken in yet) third gear was an almighty bee-yotch to get into. Even my dad, who had been driving manual for 40-odd years had trouble. Eventually, I learned how to deal with it right, and I have no issues. I don't even think about whats going on with my clutch foot/right arm. It feels sort of like a mechanical extension of the car.

Good luck, and I'll try to find more info on your problems.

[kinkyllama]

Though I'm not certain about any points I'm going to make, it may be worth checking them out.

1. Sounds like you're experiencing a "boost" leak. Since you don't have a turbo, it can equate to a vacuum leak...a bad one. This could lead to the poor idle, the bad reverse, and the weak pull. Check EVERY line...They may have gotten disconnected during the install and overlooked later. If you don't feel like checking it. Which I wouldn't, go to a mechanic's, pay them $20 cash, and tell them to do a vacuum check. Since a vacuum leak sounds like a loud "Hiss" at idle....It could also be your battery problem. However, my bet is...since it has been sitting for a year, and you more likely than not didn't put in any fuel stabilizer, your fuel lines/fuel filter are gummed up. In bad climates (ARIZONA!) fuel can gum in a matter of weeks, a year would be bad. This could also lead to the strange acceleration surges and reversing issues. Buy 2 new fuel filters (less than $10 each), and 2 cans of concentrated fuel system cleaner. Put a new filter on, run the cleaners through 2 tanks, and then put the newest filter on. I'm betting this will help, if not solve the issue.

2. The heat/your driving style (spirited) might be killing your batteries. Since the chemical process that gives batteries their power is "ideally" designed to last forever (in theory, the electron transfer between the platepacks and the fluid should never stop), the only thing that can kill them is shaking/jarring/sliding that can shift/damage the internal plates and throw off the balance, killing the battery. Also, the only thing that would make it hiss...especially a sealed-type Optima battery is some sort of internal venting issue. My recommendation to you is to go to http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 8_-1_10367, but a solid - track legal battery relocation box so that you can put it in your trunk. Make sure you vent it externally, even though the Optima ideally gives off no gas, but the hissing worries me. Less vibration and a cooler environment might aid in prolonging the life of your batteries, not to mention that it gives a clean install look that clears up the engine bay, and helps with weight distribution. Also consider getting a volt gauge and second battery to run your system...Or just dump the system.

3. Refer to item #1.

4. I don't know why the speedo doesn't work. My guess...since it works half the time, at half the speed, is that you're experiencing some sort of faulty connection. Maybe a shorted wire, loose/corroded connection, faulty speed sensor on the F28, or at worst, an incompatibility between the sensors. Speedometer issues are usually easy to diagnose and correct. Worst case scenario, pull your OEM speedo and sensor, and get an Auto Meter speedometer with a separate speed sensor. The OEM ones aren't terribly accurate (My Lanos says I'm doing 2 mph faster than I really am) and the Auto Meter one 'should' fit (using the in-dash model) and look really good.

Get the linkage adjusted professionally, or just get some custom linkage fabbed up. If you're already several $K deep into a 6-speed European transmission, another few hundred might be well spent. This may even clear up the problem with 6th and alleviate the problem with 3rd. Hopefully it doesn't need a rebuild which would have it sitting for a while waiting for parts. For now, drive it carefully, keep it well-stocked with Royal Purple Fully Synthetic fluid, and learn the intricacies of the clutch and linkage. When I first bought my Lanos (which hadn't even been properly broken in yet) third gear was an almighty bee-yotch to get into. Even my dad, who had been driving manual for 40-odd years had trouble. Eventually, I learned how to deal with it right, and I have no issues. I don't even think about whats going on with my clutch foot/right arm. It feels sort of like a mechanical extension of the car.

Good luck, and I'll try to find more info on your problems.

1) Other than the TB/Intake is there anywhere else that can have a vacum leak?

Yeah, I thought it was the fuel at first...but I dunno. Ran some fuel system clearer so far and I started my second tank about 20 miles ago..

2) I've been wanting to relocate my battery forever, but it's not going to be a fun project so I keep putting it off. How would I run two batters, just have everything connected to one as usual then just have the second one hooked up to it?

4) Hmm I'll look into that. Wanna see what someone has to say that knows the F28 though before I mess with that.

Thanks for all the help!

[kinkyllama]

1. Sounds like you're experiencing a "boost" leak. Since you don't have a turbo, it can equate to a vacuum leak...a bad one.

You were right! although I dont know if that was the problem yet two of the connectors on my TB were leaking. I checked them before and they look fine, but I checked again since you brought it up and you can def feel it when putting your finger up to it. I'll be going to get new rubber blocker thingys in a bit. I really really hope that solves my problem.

[BosnianLanos]

I'm glad if anything I said helped.

See if that clears up the hissing/sputtering/hesitation issues. Also, check all over the intake manifold. Look for every little hose that leads from it to a vacuum controlled device. If you have ANY doubt about them leaking, either replace them or get little zip tie, tie them up tight and clip the excess.

I'd keep concentration on the fuel system as well. If you have a gummed up filter, no amount of cleaner will get it clean. At best, it might break up the deposits and push them into your injectors. If you have any doubt, any time, or any money. Get a new fuel filter, get a professional cleaning, and get the injectors sonic-cleaned. At any rate, if it doesn't fix your problem, it certainly couldn't hurt.

The battery relocation really isn't that bad. Just bolt the wires that go from the negative terminal to the body, and run a new line along your brake hoses to your alternator. 2 bolts for the new relocation kit, and your done. If you're slow, it'll take 2.5 hours. And thats a GENEROUS amount of time.

[kinkyllama]

The battery relocation really isn't that bad. Just bolt the wires that go from the negative terminal to the body, and run a new line along your brake hoses to your alternator. 2 bolts for the new relocation kit, and your done. If you're slow, it'll take 2.5 hours. And thats a GENEROUS amount of time.

My AIT sensor broke off so I'm waiting for the glue to dry then we'll know...

What about grounds? Should I just use one big gauge ground wire to go to the engine bay, then use one of those splitter things to get a buncha smaller wires to ground like normal? Also I have lots of hidden stereo wires, gotta rip out one seat to move all that around and my subs take about an hour to get out so I can even run the battery wires to the trunk (well to hide them anyways) so it's about a full days job. I'll get around to it but no sooner than a couple weeks. Gotta get the car running well before I mess with anything else

thanks again

[kinkyllama]

Well I still gotta check for other vacuum leaks but those two major ones didn't seam to fix much. The cars running a tad bit better though

[BosnianLanos]

To set the battery to ground, you are usually supplied a short 00 gauge wire that bolts to the trunk metal. This grounds the whole car. Just be sure the wires that were originally on the terminal also get bolted to the body.

Don't run the wire inside the car. Just drill a hole and run it beneath the car. Much easier. Just zip tie it to the top of your brake lines so it doesn't chafe or get caught on anything.

[kinkyllama]

To set the battery to ground, you are usually supplied a short 00 gauge wire that bolts to the trunk metal. This grounds the whole car. Just be sure the wires that were originally on the terminal also get bolted to the body.

Don't run the wire inside the car. Just drill a hole and run it beneath the car. Much easier. Just zip tie it to the top of your brake lines so it doesn't chafe or get caught on anything.

Since the battery would be near my subs amp, should I ground my subs to the chassis and the battery ground just to get the best grounding possible.

[Audacity Racing]

Just a thought on the grounding, but the vast majority of dedicated race cars have a "spinal ground" or a large gauge wire ground running the length of the car that everything ties into... this is a direct copper connection to the battery as opposed to going though various bolted/welded steel structures from front to back.

Think of it as an earthing kit on steroids...

[Audacity Racing]

Also, did you check the speed sensor? Perhaps it's been damaged and is only hitting teeth sometimes (as if some were stripped off)... aside from that or an electrical connection failure I can't imagine why if would be erratic

[kinkyllama]

I may have found the cause of all or some of the problems. My ignition coils leaking, and hitting the hood. Which might explain why my hood burns you after running the car only 5mins. This might even be the cause of the speedo goin crazy. btw my ignition coils ontop of my valve cover (cuz the msd) while I wait for a new one what can I put inbetween it and the hood to block the spark?

Just a thought on the grounding, but the vast majority of dedicated race cars have a "spinal ground" or a large gauge wire ground running the length of the car that everything ties into... this is a direct copper connection to the battery as opposed to going though various bolted/welded steel structures from front to back.

Think of it as an earthing kit on steroids...

Also, did you check the speed sensor? Perhaps it's been damaged and is only hitting teeth sometimes (as if some were stripped off)... aside from that or an electrical connection failure I can't imagine why if would be erratic

Where is the speed senor?

[jidasas]

Don't understand why it would be sending a spark but couldn't you just get a bit of rubber to put on the bottom side of the hood or around the box to insulate it. But it might make the spark jump somewhere else i.e. onto the engine or transmission and burn out some sensors or worse. I mean obviously theres some exra electicity looking for an outlet and it will try to find the easiest route so if you block one route wouldn't it just take another?

Audacity can definately help more than me. but that sounds like a pretty serious issue to me. Personally I would be afraid to run the engine with any kind of electrical spark arcing especially since it could hit a fuel line.

Jimmy

[kinkyllama]

Don't understand why it would be sending a spark but couldn't you just get a bit of rubber to put on the bottom side of the hood or around the box to insulate it. But it might make the spark jump somewhere else i.e. onto the engine or transmission and burn out some sensors or worse. I mean obviously theres some exra electicity looking for an outlet and it will try to find the easiest route so if you block one route wouldn't it just take another?

Audacity can definately help more than me. but that sounds like a pretty serious issue to me. Personally I would be afraid to run the engine with any kind of electrical spark arcing especially since it could hit a fuel line.

Jimmy

I put a peice of rubber and clotch (to pin it between the hood) and it doesnt seam to be leaking anymore. The reason it's leaking is a crack. I should have a new one Wensday though. Hopfully this is the cause of most my problems....it'd make much sense.

[jidasas]

Oh...so the rubber seals the crack and no more spark...er leak. I didn't even think that you might be able to seal the box back up.

Jimmy