Another problem

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 1:16 am

I changed my a/c belt and it was easy. I had all my tools out so i decided to fix a couple more things.

T-stat was leaking and needed a gasket, no big deal right? I went to the local auto parts and bought the gasket.$2
I got everything tore down and took the old gasket off (was flatened not broken). The new gasket was to BIG so i had to get another one. I had to drive the car to the store, so i was kinda screwed. I put the old gasket back on and put the gasket that was to big on there also. It held enough for me to get to the parts house. The t-stat gasket is 1 1/2 inches i.d. They did not have the gasket i needed so i had to make one work. I got it home and installed it.

The t-stat was not leaking anymore but there was still anti-freeze leaking from somewhere. IT WAS COMING FROM THE HEAD!!!! All of my head bolts were loose and it was leaking oil and anti-freeze. The anit-freeze came from right above the t-stat housing. The oil was under the plastic valve cover and down in the cam postioning sensor and all around the head(not anything out of the ordinary). I tightened all the head bolts down. I know they are suppost to be to a certain spec but i dont have a tourqe wrench. I got them tightened enough were they wont back off for now, till i can get to my buddies house to use his wrench. What is the spec on those nuts?

I also had a check engine light come on some time ago and never bothered with it till now. I had it scanned at auto zone, it came up with p0420. This is exactly what the reciept says.

The pcm has determined that the catalyst system efficiency for bank one is below threshold for the current engine conditions.(bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank #2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)

Definition
Catalyst efficiency low bank 1

Explanation
The oxygen sensor monitor the catalytic convertors ability to store oxygen.

Probable cause
1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2,3,4)
2. Engine misfire or running condition
3. Large vacume leak
4.Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings.

That doesnt narrow it down enough for me.

1.Can you test a catalytic convertor?
2.What would cause a misfire or poor running condition?
3.What vacume lines should i check?
4.Wouldnt the car be smoking if i were getting oil pass the seals.

I tightened down the head so i hope everything is making a good seal. If that was the problem. I am going to go do an oil change and reset the comp. and go for a drive cycle and see if it throwes the code again.

I need all the help i can get. You mechanics let me know(im not a mechanic). Thanks guys!!

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:08 am

didnt you just have head work done on your car, or was that some one else? if it was you, id take it back to the place and make them get new head bolts, gasket and all that. if that wasnt you, sorry i must have people confused. sorry bro

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:13 am

Your right that was me.

I tightened down the head and did a drive cycle and the check engine light never came back on. My wife drove the car all day and no light. horraaayyy!!!

I cant remember the last person that took the head off. It has been off like 4 times in 5 years. Th gasket is not leaking anymore that i know of. The last time the head was off was like a year ago. I cant take it back to the guy now. Its a machine and it will break, so wear and tear could be a factor.

Anybody know the tourqe spec on those head bolts?

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:45 am

check the FAQ section.

MMamdouh

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 2:48 am

Im to lazy to search it. Blah!!!!! Just tell me. jk...... Thanks!! Will do.

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 3:02 am

Wow that was a bit overwelming. That john trickle knows how to type massive pages info about head bolt tourqe. I saw it was 60x60x30 18ft lb . What are they talking about? Do i set my tourqe wrench to 18 ft lbs? Sorry im a bit clueless. I know MMamdouh is banging his head against the screen right now. "These damn noobs!!!!!" Sorry buddy

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 7:26 am

For A16DMS 1.6 DOHC engine torque is 18 lb-ft (25Nm) +60° +60° +60° +10° in sequence. Best with new gasket and bolts.

Daniel

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:15 am

TxDAEWOOxT wrote:I know MMamdouh is banging his head against the screen right now. "These damn noobs!!!!!" Sorry buddy

No no man... i am glad to help everyone

MMamdouh

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Tue May 01, 2007 2:22 am

Thanks guys!!

Spider · Post by **Spider** » Tue May 01, 2007 10:16 pm

Good that all is fine now.

I do wonder about the place that did your head work a year ago though..

The head should not loosen up after a year. For instance ? My old Lanos head was still on tight after 120k miles. No leakage.
If they did it right ? they used new head-bolts and gasket. And torqued to factory spec's.
The Daewoo head-bolts are "one-time-only" bolts...they are designed to strech. And to be used only one time.
Some mechanics call them "strech-bolts.

Besides the worry, hassle and money spent?
Your lucky no damage occured.

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Thu May 03, 2007 4:29 am

Now that you say that, i dont know if the head bolts have ever been changed. yikes!!! I need to get a new set on there. That head has been off like 3 or 4 times. I cant remeber anybody saying that they replaced the head bolts. Well i guess thanks for letting me know. I need to spend more $$$$ on that car. i am going to be buried in that damn car.

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Thu May 03, 2007 4:44 pm

spider made a good point, you should change the head bolts everytime. that being said, you should look into a set of ARP studs. you can remove and reinstall a headup to 12 times with out having to replace them.

the down side is that ARP does not have a kit for the 1.6 but they likely have a kit that will work, you'll just be the first to have the kit.

to get a kit you'll need to get some of the measurements gone over in the post i made for the ARP main studs http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... 1677#81677

then you'll need to call 1.805.339.2200 and ask for AL. i spoke to all about it before writing this and there should be no problem.

if you can't get these measurement then make a post, if i can't help you get them someone can.

the cost should be about $130 but it's one time where the OE bolts will get cost you about $50 from ebay + shipping and 100 + special order from the former dealer.

garrett

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Fri May 04, 2007 3:48 am

"the down side is that ARP does not have a kit for the 1.6 but they likely have a kit that will work, you'll just be the first to have the kit."

i would love to be the first to have these studs, but (<---- big but) i dont wanna be the guinea pig on this one. I already read the post and saw some discrepancies about the bolt not bottoming out.

I wanna have something sure fire and not gonna cause a problem on install or the longevity of my car. Trust me i would love to be the one who is able to say "i tried it and they work". I really dont wanna be the one to say "i tried it and it didnt work".

I could be ruined if something happens to this car. It is on its last leg. Im sorry of it sounds like i dont want them or i dont wanna take one for the team. I just cant have anything go wrong with those bolts on the install. The woo is the only car i got.

Anybody want to rent me a car to drive while mine gets these ARP bolts installed.

I just need to get it fixed(right).

What would these bolts do for my motor? I understand they would be stronger. Is that it.....

Spider · Post by **Spider** » Fri May 04, 2007 5:37 pm

TxDaewooxT,

I can't tell you whats best for your engine or your wallet.

Everything I ever heard regarding the ARP bolts is very positive.
If your into racing and or extra horsepower, like bored -out, stronger rods, cam/crank work, turbo etc, etc...
Than APR's would be best for that.

If your just using your car for the good gas milage it gets and as a daily driver family transportation car?
Than you can't go wrong with the Daewoo Factory OEM head bolts.

Regarding my origional factory engine with the origional factory installed head bolts ?
The head bolts were still at torque spec's when I checked them at around 120K miles.
The only coolant leagage problem I ever had with that engine was when the thermostat houseing split in half.
That was a BIG leak !

Other than that? No leakage, ever.

From a cost point of view ? I am wondering if the 1.6 Aveo engine uses the same head bolts as the 1.6 Daewoo ?
Might be something you want to research?

TxDAEWOOxT · Post by **TxDAEWOOxT** » Sun May 06, 2007 6:08 am

I want the bolts, i just need a rock solid "yes they will work no problem".

What i couldnt afford is th f*^k up. If the mechanic tried putting them in and cross threaded or ruined my block i would be screwed. I might just get them and get them installed. If it screws up the block, i need a new bottom end anyways.lol

Send me some more info about size and thread count. i cant take mine apart until i ready to install. My mechanic will be the one doing the work.