Today the slave cylinder was ordered, and should be here tomorrow. Hopefully we can get the disc hub machined and everything back together by the end of tomorrow. I really hope that I don't have more problems with this hydraulic clutch system as the brakes run off of the same lines, and that could lead to a dangerous situation.
On the positive side, while the tranny is out I decided to fill the engine mount that bolts to it, hopefully less wheel hop and better feel.
Half filled:
Fully filled, and then covered with black silicone to prevent weathering and keep it contained if the epoxy cracks
Sorry to hear about the clutch. At this point I tend to believe this being caused by one of two:
a) indeed this is manufacturing error - like Chris said there are numerous people using this clutch combination in UK with no problems - I agree with him on that. Also, if fitment was off, Kinky's clutch would die months ago.
b) the slave cylinder was leaking slightly upon release beforehand.. small leak contaminated friction material of the OEM clutch and soaked into it. Upon installation of new clutchkit, and more work required to move the pressure plate, it failed.
Both opinions are speculations at this point.... but this makes me want to check my clutch just in case..
We had to modify it by removing some material off the centre hub on the transmission side so that it wouldn't make contact with the slave cylinder. Our final opinion on this is that it seems like the hub was possibly installed backwards into the disc at the time of manufacturing. After that everything seemed to go without any more problems, except one. My VSS (vehicle speed sensor) somehow died during this process. So I have no speedo and a nice CEL staring at me. We tried double checking the connections and even took the sensor completely out to inspect, but it looked fine. A new one is ordered for $38 CAD and should come in tomorrow.
This clutch certainly takes some getting used to. Clutch peddle is about twice as heavy now, but I like that. The way the clutch acts though is completely different from the OEM. It allows for very little slippage when trying to engage. If you try to softly or gently engage it chatters and jerks the whole car around. I've had to adjust my driving style to be more aggressive off every stop or else it just seems like it wants to bite and grip. At least the problem with clutch slippage due to power is gone!
Ya for sure, of course the clutch is not responsible for all the problems in acceleration in high gears and high speeds and i am sure u know that, but in most of the cases the clutch is affecting the acceleration too much, this happens in the earlier stages in the clutch wreckage, so it makes people confused of why the car cant accelerate or why its accelerating really slower than before, although if u wanted to start accelerating starting from Zero speed with a high rev, it will eat the asphalt, i already have that problem in my car and also cant find a good clutch to swap mine, i have tried the original Valeo parts before and of course u know they sux here in egypt, wish i can find Sachs or something like that.
Looks like all this time I wasn't really running @ 7psi .......... more like 10 - 12psi. I guess the motor can take it, nothing has happened yet and I've been ripping it for months lol.
10 to 12 psi is safe if and only if nothing goes wrong.
A slight spike in boost at these levels could be enough to cause some damage.
Exist3nce is running an air fuel ratio in the low 10's which means the engine is running a bit rich... making things safe.
The problem is that a single batch of bad gasoline can change that and cause some damage.
In my opinion 8psi is still the safest bet.... above that your taking a risk with both the fuel, turbo and mechanical systems.
I bet you could probably make 18 psi worth of boost on stock internals if everthing was very carefully planned, monitored and the correct fuel octane was used (race gas)
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
well that means that you can lean the AFR something closer to 12.0:1
i read some info that says that engine maximun power wont be obtained in AFR richer that 12.0:1
with the water injection u can lean it
even more if you use water and methanol
u can get it from windshield washer liquids that contain water and methanol already mixed (it must not have glycol)
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST 304whp 319tq @22psi w EVO 3 16G Daily Driven DAEWOO Nubira 2.2L Turbo 217whp 204tq @13psi SOLD
Well things have taken an unfortunate turn of events. My manifold cracked today. It seemed totally random, I wasn't pushing it or anything. It cracked right at the point where the wastegate is welded on, and now the whole W/G is off and there is a big hole in the front of the manifold
