My name is Josh, I'm hailing out of MD in the States near Washington DC. I have been building a 2.0 turbo motor since last septemeber. The motor isn't exactly going into a daewoo, but I joined these forums hoping that I may be able to get some questions answered. I also have a bunch of parts laying around that some of you may be looking for that I will put in the classifides as well.
The goal for the motor is 300whp before nitrous and is entirely achievable. Right now I am doing mostly chassy work on the sunbird the motor is going in but I have some pretty cool projects going on that some of you may like to see.
The motor before the most recent tear down:
In this picture I was using a Nissan 16v cermaic ball bearing turbo from an RB20 skyline. On the left, that is an MSD 6al, on the other side of that strut tower are the nitrous solenoids. The box on the right of the picture is a Multi-step retard unit from MSD pulling 3 degrees of timing for nitrous. This was using a freshly built OEM bottom end fully balanced and a freshly built OEM head with a full intake port and polishing and an exhaust polishing. The throttle body is from a 2.3 Quad 4. It's 56mm and uses the same TPS and same stepper motor for the IAC so the stock comptuer could control it. There isn't a whole lot else that I feel worthy of noting with the old set-up. I ran 11psi, stock injectors and a heft front mount intercooler.
The intake ports:
Bottom end:
Getting ready for the next step in the build:
Sitting in the empty cowl panel is Megasquirt V2.2. The stock OBD1 comptuer is very capable once you start messing with the chip, but I am very formiliar with MS tuning so I chose to go that route instead. You can also see the new turbo in this picture being test-fitted into it's new location (custom top mount equal-length turbo header being made.) This picture was taken prior to rebuilding the turbo.
Durring the build:
I have gutted everything from the car that does not make it faster. The transmission is now a 5spd Getrag Every wire in the car has been removed. The only electronics staying in the car are headlights, taillights and turn signals.... then of course all of the go fast goodies.
Added an idle air circuit to my megasquirt board:
Gutted:
Checking nitrous distribution clearnaces:
I have lots more pictures. If anybody has questions feel free to ask.
Right now I am going to get all of the tuning down and set everything up with the computer on 10psi and spray 65hp ans see how that holds up on an oem bottom end. I will be building another bottom end with forged rods and some significant crank work. I have head studs and an MLS headgasket waiting for that. A DIS conversion is in order as well. After all of that it is just going to be a matter of taking it to the dyno and tuning/cranking up the boost. My ultimate goal is to hit 500hp with roughly 100hp of that covered by nitrous. A DOHC conversion will probably be needed. 500hp should be enough to take this feather-weight shell into the 9s fwd.
Another sunbird 8v 2.0 turbo build
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Very good post, I enjoyied it very much.
I would love to see this car out on the track beating all the other cars you see so often. I've raced a few modded sunbird and they can be really fast. Make sure you keep us up to date. I'm really intrested to see the end results.
Danny
I would love to see this car out on the track beating all the other cars you see so often. I've raced a few modded sunbird and they can be really fast. Make sure you keep us up to date. I'm really intrested to see the end results.
Danny
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
very nice ad enjoyable post,i could build my daewoo using that info and pics. i wanna see you post more on your building.
WOOOOO HOOOOO for a DAEWOO!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!
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Good to see some other C20GET ( LT3 ) engine guys hanging around.... I have two of them (engines that is)... I also have an 87 Sunbird GT but it's been sitting engineless for a couple years now.
I noticed that you were using stock injectors.... I hope your upgrading them before going crazy with boost or nitrous.... there have been a number of engines that went "boom" thanks to crappy stock injectors failing.
I have a fairly stock C20GET in a nice light 91 Pontiac Lemans ( several hundred pounds lighter than the sunbird ) and I have trouble with traction at 10psi up until 3rd gear.
I have a nice T3/T4 and a T3 cast manifold on the way (along with a 6 pack clutch and 1200lb pressure plate )
I don't know what I'll end up making... but it should be decent..... nothing close to what your looking to make.
My longterm project is a Daewoo 2.2L ( same basic block design as the C20GET... just 1cm taller deck ) which I hope to push up into the 2.4L range using an Isuzu crankshaft..... it will be a long stroke so it should be good as a turbo engine.
Oh..... just looking at your photos.... do you have a factory cam gear??
I own an adjustable cam gear (think it came from the UK ) ... I can find out more info on it if your intersted.
I also have an underdrive pulley.... but it was a custom made piece so there aren't very many of them in existance.
If you dig around a bit you will find all kinds of links to international suppliers of parts.... our C20GET was unique to North America but there are lots of guys out in the UK turboing their 2.0L 8V engines.
My end goal is 800whp and roughly 10,000 RPM..... but the biggest problem is finding a strong tranny that will fit into a Daewoo lanos
I use to spend time on various J-Body forums.... but since I became a co-administrator on this site I devote most of my time here.
Keep us posted on your progress........
I noticed that you were using stock injectors.... I hope your upgrading them before going crazy with boost or nitrous.... there have been a number of engines that went "boom" thanks to crappy stock injectors failing.
I have a fairly stock C20GET in a nice light 91 Pontiac Lemans ( several hundred pounds lighter than the sunbird ) and I have trouble with traction at 10psi up until 3rd gear.
I have a nice T3/T4 and a T3 cast manifold on the way (along with a 6 pack clutch and 1200lb pressure plate )
I don't know what I'll end up making... but it should be decent..... nothing close to what your looking to make.
My longterm project is a Daewoo 2.2L ( same basic block design as the C20GET... just 1cm taller deck ) which I hope to push up into the 2.4L range using an Isuzu crankshaft..... it will be a long stroke so it should be good as a turbo engine.
Oh..... just looking at your photos.... do you have a factory cam gear??
I own an adjustable cam gear (think it came from the UK ) ... I can find out more info on it if your intersted.
I also have an underdrive pulley.... but it was a custom made piece so there aren't very many of them in existance.
If you dig around a bit you will find all kinds of links to international suppliers of parts.... our C20GET was unique to North America but there are lots of guys out in the UK turboing their 2.0L 8V engines.
My end goal is 800whp and roughly 10,000 RPM..... but the biggest problem is finding a strong tranny that will fit into a Daewoo lanos
I use to spend time on various J-Body forums.... but since I became a co-administrator on this site I devote most of my time here.
Keep us posted on your progress........
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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I deffinately forgot to add the new injectors. I am using injectors from a Mopar stage 2 kit for an SRT-4 dodge neon. They are rated at 682cc.
I know what you are talking about with traction issues. This car used to be extremely heavy as it is a convertible and it had an automatic transmission. Still, as soon as boost hit in first or second gear I lost traction on a dry day with the stock tires. I have a set of BF goodrich G-force T/A drag radials on Motegi trak lite rims (10lbs a piece and 9" wide.) Hopefully that should solve most of the traction problems. The nitrous is also on a progressive controller. Between that and the large turbocharger (p-trim t3/t04b) I shouldn't have a whole lot of power down low to spin the wheels with.
I have actually head of that same 2.4L set-up that you are planning on using. One of the issues you are going to run into is getting the roatating assembly balanced well enough to handle that long stroke at 10k rpm. One of the advantages of the c20 is that it is a square engine, the stroke and bore are the same, which makes it a lot easier for the engine to rev with such great force from high boost pressures. The stock balancing is junk. If you do have an underdrive pulley, don't put it on unless your rotating assembly has been balanced with it. Our underdrive pulleys have a harmonic balancer built into them, you can barely see it, but there is a little black rubber strip going through the middle of it. That's why their were not many made, they were killing stock engines. I have plans of having an aluminum under drive pulley made further down the road but I need the make the alternator spin a lot slower than most would since I have almost no electronics so I need it to be one-off.
I know of the cam gear you are talking about too. I think Piper Cams makes it but I'm not 100% on that one. I did research on a few European companies making Opel/Vauxhall performance parts a while ago when I first started my build. I'd love to grab one but I want to see waht kind of power I can make without it first to see if I need to do a DOHC conversion.
Your best bet with a strong tranny may be a 4T40-e automatic. I have seen the factory transmission handle as much as 500hp in J-bodies with the weak spot being the facotry differencial. I haven't seen anything else break at all, however there are companies making replacement parts for them like LSDs and stronger planetary gears, clutch packs, ect.... You may also push your luck with the 4t60-e used in the larger V6 GM fwd cars and some fwd V8s like the northstar.
Deffinately good luck with you goal as well. Let me know if you need help sourcing any parts from the states.
I know what you are talking about with traction issues. This car used to be extremely heavy as it is a convertible and it had an automatic transmission. Still, as soon as boost hit in first or second gear I lost traction on a dry day with the stock tires. I have a set of BF goodrich G-force T/A drag radials on Motegi trak lite rims (10lbs a piece and 9" wide.) Hopefully that should solve most of the traction problems. The nitrous is also on a progressive controller. Between that and the large turbocharger (p-trim t3/t04b) I shouldn't have a whole lot of power down low to spin the wheels with.
I have actually head of that same 2.4L set-up that you are planning on using. One of the issues you are going to run into is getting the roatating assembly balanced well enough to handle that long stroke at 10k rpm. One of the advantages of the c20 is that it is a square engine, the stroke and bore are the same, which makes it a lot easier for the engine to rev with such great force from high boost pressures. The stock balancing is junk. If you do have an underdrive pulley, don't put it on unless your rotating assembly has been balanced with it. Our underdrive pulleys have a harmonic balancer built into them, you can barely see it, but there is a little black rubber strip going through the middle of it. That's why their were not many made, they were killing stock engines. I have plans of having an aluminum under drive pulley made further down the road but I need the make the alternator spin a lot slower than most would since I have almost no electronics so I need it to be one-off.
I know of the cam gear you are talking about too. I think Piper Cams makes it but I'm not 100% on that one. I did research on a few European companies making Opel/Vauxhall performance parts a while ago when I first started my build. I'd love to grab one but I want to see waht kind of power I can make without it first to see if I need to do a DOHC conversion.
Your best bet with a strong tranny may be a 4T40-e automatic. I have seen the factory transmission handle as much as 500hp in J-bodies with the weak spot being the facotry differencial. I haven't seen anything else break at all, however there are companies making replacement parts for them like LSDs and stronger planetary gears, clutch packs, ect.... You may also push your luck with the 4t60-e used in the larger V6 GM fwd cars and some fwd V8s like the northstar.
Deffinately good luck with you goal as well. Let me know if you need help sourcing any parts from the states.
very nice work man... you are a valuable asset to this forum indeed.
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
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