Okay... new problem first rearing it's head today...
Speedo now is not kicking on until it gets up to 30mph, then it jumps quickly up to speed.
If I slow down to below that speed it will continue functioning perfectly.
If I stop completely and then start going again it will kick on a little sooner (about 20mph).
Then if I stop again and start it will kick on at about 15 or so.
If I slow it all the way down to about 5-10 mph and then start speeding up again it works perfectly.
I just put in a new distance sensor and distance sensor housing about 3 months ago or so.
Anyone run into this problem before?
I think my ECU is stupid... but who the hell knows... and why does it seem like I can't get my woo to the point where nothing needs to be fixed on it?
... If this kind of thing keeps popping up on me and I fail to fix some of the parts on my woo, I'm gonna have to start looking for a different car I think (which is sad, because I love my woo... it just keeps having problems).
Lagging speedo (what the hell man...)
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
get it checked and see if it is getting the right current through the speedo wire. a current problem or not enough current going to the ecm could be causing all of your problems.
WOOOOO HOOOOO for a DAEWOO!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 4795
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:41 am
- Location: 313
Haha... problem fixed (feeling a bit sheepish).
Last night I went in and found that the faces I had put in were warped slightly (either from some high heat exposure or perhaps all the humidity we've had recently. I also had a very thin film underneath it to color the gauges (which I had intended to remove anyway).
So... I removed the film, and looked around inside as well, just to see what all could be done to it. I noticed that on either side of all of the lights, there are light blockers. I decided I would remove those as well (they are part of the molded plastic of the back wall where the bulb sockets are).
I unscrewed the gauge mechanisms from the rear (circuit side) and took them out being careful to mark one of the side ones on both the body and the mechanism so I wouldn't accidently confuse the two putting them back in (probably an unnessicary precaution but I thought I would mention that). I then carefully cut along the seam for the light blockers and snapped them off. I saved them just in case I needed to glue them back in place for some stupid reason.
I put it all back together only this time I used a little extra double sided tape to make sure that the centers around where the needle casing is, didn't have a hope or prayer of being able to bubble up to touch the underside of the needle, putting resistance on and essentially stopping the needle in it's tracks until enough pressure (or speed) was accumulated on the surface allowing it to slip.
So... now the lights in there with the reverse glow don't show quite as much of the mechanical parts inside when lit up. They're also a bit brighter since I removed the light blockers from around the bulbs.
I have an idea as well for a reverse glow technique, but I have to find double sided photo paper if it's going to work.
So yeah... I caused the problem, which annoyed me, but at least I can laugh at myself for it.
Last night I went in and found that the faces I had put in were warped slightly (either from some high heat exposure or perhaps all the humidity we've had recently. I also had a very thin film underneath it to color the gauges (which I had intended to remove anyway).
So... I removed the film, and looked around inside as well, just to see what all could be done to it. I noticed that on either side of all of the lights, there are light blockers. I decided I would remove those as well (they are part of the molded plastic of the back wall where the bulb sockets are).
I unscrewed the gauge mechanisms from the rear (circuit side) and took them out being careful to mark one of the side ones on both the body and the mechanism so I wouldn't accidently confuse the two putting them back in (probably an unnessicary precaution but I thought I would mention that). I then carefully cut along the seam for the light blockers and snapped them off. I saved them just in case I needed to glue them back in place for some stupid reason.
I put it all back together only this time I used a little extra double sided tape to make sure that the centers around where the needle casing is, didn't have a hope or prayer of being able to bubble up to touch the underside of the needle, putting resistance on and essentially stopping the needle in it's tracks until enough pressure (or speed) was accumulated on the surface allowing it to slip.
So... now the lights in there with the reverse glow don't show quite as much of the mechanical parts inside when lit up. They're also a bit brighter since I removed the light blockers from around the bulbs.
I have an idea as well for a reverse glow technique, but I have to find double sided photo paper if it's going to work.
So yeah... I caused the problem, which annoyed me, but at least I can laugh at myself for it.
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 4795
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:41 am
- Location: 313
at least you found out what was wrong and when other people had that problem hopefully they would be able to fix it asap. hey we need a trouble shooting forum and all so we could put that under it.
WOOOOO HOOOOO for a DAEWOO!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!
-SRI -RE:APC STAINLESS STEEL PERFORMANCE FILTER
-VALVE COVER VENT FILTER
-CUSTOM ROD CRYSTAL DRIVING LIGHTS
-1200W AMP WITH 12" SUB -KICKS WOO BUTT!!!!!