Replacing Cam Sensor and 02 sensor

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:31 pm

Ok,well got the CPS done today. Now I have other problems (I didn't think I was going to get off that lightly!)
Once they had done the CPS,the CEL was nice and dark,ie,it wasnt lit,which was a good thing. 10 miles from home on the journey
home from the dealership,the CEL decides it's going to start blinking at me. AAGGHHH. Got home and switched off the car in disgust.
Gave it about an hour then decided to go to Autozone and get them to pull the codes for me.
Got in the car,started it up,the CEL light is on,but not flashing now.And it did not flash again on my way to and from Autozone.

As for the codes,One i had before,P0133,but I had changed the 02 sensor 2 days ago,and it showed ok at the dealership.
Why would this come up again so soon after i put a new one in?
Another code came up too: P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected . This one didnt come up before,so why now?

Thing is,the engine sounds ok,and seems to be running no worse than it was before,no noticeable sluggishness or misfiring ar anything that i can tell anyway. My gas mileage was a bit better on the way back too,I got about 30mpg on the whole
round trip (210 miles) which was more than i thought i would get.

I was happy for an hour,but now,as you can probably imagine,I am not a happy camper.

At this link I found some more detailed info:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ ... tected.php

It suggests that the P0302 problem can be caused by a faulty 02 sensor. WTF ? Helloooo,It's a new one in there.
Is something else causing the 02 sensor to fail?

JohnnyC · Post by **JohnnyC** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:48 pm

I'm not sure what the problem is, but that's interesting because I've had the re-occuring problem of a reported misfire since they replace my Cam Position Sensor.

Interesting. I wonder if there is a problem with the part they're using or the method. Very interesting indeed.

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:12 am

Yeah i saw your post about that,different cylinder wasnt it? Probably the same thing just happening on a different cylinder.

I just went and checked my spark plugs and leads,and when i went to put the top plastic cover back on,I noticed that the short rubber hose that comes off the top of the engine and goes to the air cleaner hose (the big fat hose) has a big hole in it. Not sure of the exact name of it but a pic is below.

It looks like it got hot,and got really soft,and then wore through,becasue when i just looked at it ,it was practically split in two,right where the plastic engine cover meets it.
I think they may have done that at the dealership when putting the plastic cover back on. I squeezed the hose between my fingers and it practically disintegrates, and it is really squidgy,almost like gum.
I don't know whether this has anything to do with my problem though.

Oh well,another trip to the 'Zone !!

JohnnyC · Post by **JohnnyC** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:15 am

Wow... hehe that was in sad shape. Nothing wrong with that tube on my woo.

Yeah... the problem is reporting as cylinder 1 misfire on mine... Still interesting that both our woo's are running smooth but reporting a misfire on a cylinder... My guess is you were driving on the highway when it happened (the blinking CEL).

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:31 am

Yup,driving at about 65mph,I was keeping it at or under that to save gas

Didn't happen until I had done about 90 miles,roughly 1.5 hours driving,all was fine til then. I was almost home ,thinking "ok,I'm gonna go get it smog tested now before it comes back on."

DOH !

JohnnyC · Post by **JohnnyC** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:36 am

Interesting... My guess is that you'll be able to drive without a problem until you get on the highway and drive a bit. Then it will happen again. The real question is... what is it?!

Don't mind me too much... I've just been dealing with a similar problem for what seems like a long time and haven't figured it out... yet.

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:57 am

The thing that bothers me is,if i dont get it all sorted out,it wont pass smog and i cant register it. Like I said in my last post,I was so close to getting home and smoggin it,but it beat me to it.

The smog test uses the OBD to get its readings,so If i get the codes cleared and the CEL light isnt on while being smog tested,it should pass shouldnt it ,if its not giving off any errors? Then i can deal with it afterwards.

lanowoo · Post by **lanowoo** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 2:38 am

maybe something like the injector is getting warm when it says misfire on cylinder 1, or it could be a hot spot on your engine. I know this sounds stupid but it worked on a faiulty plug. have a little drive, fairly fast and hard. then when it comes on, pullover and check the wires for that injector, if it is hot, its probably swelling up the injector or there is a wire loose,if not, i am out of ideas.

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:25 am

Hard to tell in this desert heat,anything metal is always too hot to touch anyway,hahaha.

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 7:43 am

JohnnyC wrote:Interesting... My guess is that you'll be able to drive without a problem until you get on the highway and drive a bit. Then it will happen again. The real question is... what is it?!

Don't mind me too much... I've just been dealing with a similar problem for what seems like a long time and haven't figured it out... yet.

I was thinking that it could be the broken pipe affecting the air/fuel mixture causing the 02 sensor code to show up along with the misfiring cylinder code?
After reading this :
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ ... tected.php
Especially this bit :
"Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open. "

I know that paragraph is from the P0300 code explanation(Random misfires),not the P0302 like i have(Cylinder 2 misfire),
but I thought it might be relevant as i am getting the 02 sensor code with it. Where it mentions a vacuum leak is what got me thinking about that.

Also in the P0133 (02 sensor) code explanation,it mentions inlet air leak being a possible cause. Hopefully it will clear up once i have replaced that hose piece. Well I've got to be optimistic i guess. I cant think what else,because the 02 sensor and CPS have been replaced with new ones.

Naz

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:52 am

the hose will cause air leak indeed but it is before the TB so i recon it won't have that much effect on the mixture... anyways it would be better to replace it.

MMamdouh

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:13 pm

Hmm,oh well just a thought.I'm definately replacing the hose today,as its in two pieces ! I'm going to see if they will reset the codes for me too,probably have to buy some stuff so they will do it !!

JohnnyC · Post by **JohnnyC** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 5:43 pm

naznomad wrote:Hmm,oh well just a thought.I'm definately replacing the hose today,as its in two pieces ! I'm going to see if they will reset the codes for me too,probably have to buy some stuff so they will do it !!

Some of the shops like "Advanced Auto" will allow you to clear the codes, but won't do it themselves... some places won't do it at all. Though clearing the codes is easy.

Unplug your battery, step on the brake... Wait a minute or two... hook your battery back up. Go through idle learn process... DONE! Cleared codes!

naznomad · Post by **naznomad** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:12 pm

JohnnyC wrote:
naznomad wrote:Hmm,oh well just a thought.I'm definately replacing the hose today,as its in two pieces ! I'm going to see if they will reset the codes for me too,probably have to buy some stuff so they will do it !!
Some of the shops like "Advanced Auto" will allow you to clear the codes, but won't do it themselves... some places won't do it at all. Though clearing the codes is easy.

Unplug your battery, step on the brake... Wait a minute or two... hook your battery back up. Go through idle learn process... DONE! Cleared codes!

Yea i think that is what i wil do

barry_manilow · Post by **barry_manilow** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:00 am

Hey everybody,

I have a problem I was hoping you might be able to help me with.

I need to replace the CPS on my 2001 Daewoo Lanos. Its not covered by the recall.

I am at 60,000 miles now on the clock and I also think its worth changing the timing belt and any other things that may need replacing-water pump. I have the service manual, but to me at least its still not clear and the diagrams are pretty awful. I am a novice with this kind of stuff but I`m willing to have a go. I was hoping somebody may be kind enough to give me some tips, for example maybe a few photos showing me what the components are such as power steering pump and other things and steps on what to do. I am staring into the abyss every time I pop the hood on my car.

The steps in my manual for removal of the CPS are
1. Disconnect the -(v.e) battery cable (I`m good on this one)
2. Remove the engine cover (I assume it means the black casing with the oil filler cap)
3. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector (I dont know where this is, I assume it`s maybe under the engine cover somewhere if anyone can post a photo it would be appreciated)

4. Remove the power steering pump pulley (Here it claims I need a J-28467-B engine support fixture-do I need this??!)

5. Remove the air cleaner housing (I`m good on this one)
6. Loosen the steering pump pump pulley bolts(Again if someone can show a photo on which one this is and what bolts that would be fantastic)
7. Remove the pump drive belt from the pulley by loosening the alternator adjusting bolt and pulling it forward(is this the serpentine belt?, do I just pull it off or is there a certain technique?)
8. Install the engine support fixture
9. Remove the engine bracket-to-mount bolts(I guess this is to release the engine for the next step)
10. Raise the engine using support fixture.
11. Remove the steering pump pulley bolts that connect the pulley to the pump.
12. Remove the pulley from the pump(what kind of tool to do this?)

13. Remove the upper timing belt cover(is this located behind the pumps?)
14. Remove the Camshaft position sensor bolts(where are these?)
15. Remove the CPS from the top(top of what?)

If anyway can show some photos giving me some pointers on what is what, and the steps that would be fantastic! Sorry to the experts for the simpleness of my questions.

Thanks again.
BM.