Turbo Optra Plans

Forced induction, NA tunning, exhaust, just performance

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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

why don't you put the turbo right after the header as Tim did with his 1.5 SOHC??

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exist3nce
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Post by exist3nce »

that is a consideration, I didn't even know he did that. I guess that would require serious modification to the header?
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Post by ubuyau »

Easier than a full custom manifold... (sure you lose some flow (so the turbo is a little laggier) by not having a proper custom turbo manifold - but im not that concerned about boost coming on a few hundred rpm later).

Just a very small (AND CHEAP :lol:) adaptor plate...
You dont need to modify the exhaust manifold (header) at all!

So if you follow where the exhaust manifold comes off the engine then into the down pipe, a little less than 1 foot down there is a flange where the manifold bolts into a straight pipe that goes back to the cat. You could unbolt the pipe there and either get an exhaust shop (or you if you're good with a welder) to make up a little adaptor plate.

On one end you have the flange of the manifold and on the other end you have the flange of the turbo.

Only thing to consider is the oil drain from the turbo, if it hangs too low you could run into problems...

--Tim
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Post by exist3nce »

hey thats a good idea!! thanks hahaha how much did it cost you?
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Post by ubuyau »

For the adaptor AND the 2.5inch mandrel bent down pipe it was $600AU. The down pipe has a flex joint and is back to the cat.

The shop had to custom make the manifold flange on the adaptor for me though... so it costed a bit more.

The cheapest I was quoted was $400AU for a basic log style manifold alone (no downpipe).

My welding skills are non existant so... :cry:

--Tim
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Post by exist3nce »

My welding skills are non existant so...
as are mine hahah
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

If your still after a 16V turbo manifold let me know..... I'm getting a T3 flanged 8V turbo manifold sometime in the next few months so it would be easy to bring in another manifold ( shipping is expensive so getting a couple manifolds at a time is a good idea )

Totally stock internals..... hard to say exactly.... I'd stick to 8psi or less.

You could get into the high 14's if you had some nice sticky tires..... I'm going to guess that 8psi should net you around 200 to 210 Whp

Don't bother with remote turbo setups..... I personally don't belive in them.... I know there was someone on here that wanted to do one but I think it's a pain and you make less power than if it's right up at the manifold.

The biggest thing about getting into the 14's is how light your car is..... pull out what ever you can.... rear seats, rear deck, spare tire, rear panels, passenger seat, and what ever else you can find.

All this stuff can be pulled out in less than a half hour..... and it takes about the same to put it all back in.

So pull it out for a run at the drag strip and drop it back in for street driving.

Right now my turbo Optra 5 project is on hold and I'm concentrating on getting my Turbo Lemans up and running.

I was trying to find out about insurance for all the modifications I want to do on the Optra 5 and it's absolutely crazy how much they want per month.

If I wasn't driving it to work on a daily basis I could get insurance quite a bit cheaper.

At this point I'm going to fix up the Lemans and if it satisfies my "go fast" then I will turn the Optra 5 into a show/audio platform with "all motor" upgrades so that the insurance doesn't know the engine is modified.

Unfortunatly I'm extreemly busy at work.... I've been working 60+ hour weeks so I haven't had much time for cars in the last year or so.

Hopefully that will change....things are starting to slow down slightly ( which is why I'm not at work right now ) so who knows.
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Post by Audacity Racing »

i garantee a half second faster in the 1/4 with urethane motor mounts :!:
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Post by debo890 »

Audacityracing wrote:i garantee a half second faster in the 1/4 with urethane motor mounts :!:
i want to replace all three, where do in find one for the nubi?
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

Audacityracing wrote:i garantee a half second faster in the 1/4 with urethane motor mounts :!:
Most of the Daewoo mounts are horribly soft .... I don't know about a whole 1/2 second.... do you really think it would make that much difference???

It's not too hard to fill your existing mounts with urethane.... this leaves some give to them so the ride isn't too harsh while taking up most of the slack in the drivetrain movement.

The theory behind stiffer mounts helping you to go faster is that the stock rubber mounts absorb lots of energy when you hammer the throttle........ they are designed to take the shock out of the system.

So harder mounts transfer more power to the ground and make the powertrain transfer to the tires more efficent.

It's like this.....

Imagine you have two 200lb desks and you need to move them one foot.

On desk #1 you have a 2 foot thick piece of foam between you and the desk

On desk #2 you have a 1/2" thick hard rubber mat between you and the desk

When you push..... you will have to push way harder on #1 to get the desk to move because the foam is absorbing energy just like a spring.

Desk #2 will feel relatively easy to move compared to Desk #1...... so in this case the soft energy absorbing foam makes it very hard for you to transfer the energy required to move the desk.
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2002 Daewoo lanos
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Post by Audacity Racing »

yeah... 1/2 second easy... maybe more (depends on your power numbers). from 2nd gear to 3rd you loose a remendous amount of torque through motion transfer. it never shows up on the dyno because you feather into it, but in a drag scenario when you hammer it in 3rd, you loose tons of energy.



1. you can fill the stock mounts with window weld.... works to about a 80% capacity of true urethane mounts


2. you can order a set from intimidator


3. you can make molds from the OEM mounts and then mix and cast your own urethane.





i did option number 3 because i made about 6 sets in order to have them around.
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Post by kinkyllama »

exist3nce wrote:Continuing on with my plans and attempts to aquire the right parts, does anyone know where I could find a turbo manifold for the Optra 2.0L ? Ofcourse 360 was offering, but yah..... :( Or do you think I will have to get one custom made from scratch? How much might that cost?


thanks.
My turbo mani that I got from 360 will be on ebay soon. I'll let you know.

btw, im still turbocharging my car
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-Turbo in the works
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exist3nce
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Post by exist3nce »

My turbo mani that I got from 360 will be on ebay soon. I'll let you know.

btw, im still turbocharging my car

??So you are going to sell your mani, but still turboing your car? What do you plan to use? Is there some reason / flaw you don't like about it?
exist3nce
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Post by exist3nce »

yeah... 1/2 second easy... maybe more (depends on your power numbers). from 2nd gear to 3rd you loose a remendous amount of torque through motion transfer. it never shows up on the dyno because you feather into it, but in a drag scenario when you hammer it in 3rd, you loose tons of energy.
Thanks for the info (both Audacityracing and Chris), I had no idea about this at all. I will consider that down the line.
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Post by kinkyllama »

exist3nce wrote:
My turbo mani that I got from 360 will be on ebay soon. I'll let you know.

btw, im still turbocharging my car

??So you are going to sell your mani, but still turboing your car? What do you plan to use? Is there some reason / flaw you don't like about it?
Im going to get ahold of a different mani. The turbo sits too low and the oil wont return on its own. Its not a hard fix but I know I can get more than what I paid for this one so im just going to get a different one
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
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