gurugirl wrote:Ok for the colant fans removed spark plug lead NO collant
Replaced coil pack
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Leads
Used injector cleaner
Replaced Petrol
Idles ok
when I drive and get to 40Km it just dies and has no power and starts to pig root
I can jump in and do 20km ok
If I am stationary and push the accelerate it like it hits a curve and will not go any further
The noise cming from the air cleaner when this happens is not like when it idles...
Any other ideas
Whats the synthomps of a timing belt 1 notch out???
Also there is a broken sensor of some sort on the Gearbox -??
one notch off will mess the valve timing and accordingly the engine will not function correctly... you will have loss of power and bad idling... maybe even over heating as well.
Bit of a pain this one without actually having a look.
Ok, It could be gassing up. So I wonder if somewhere in the Exhuast is blocked, or maybe the Cat has dis-integrated, or the Exhuast has had a "Ding, and is restricting gas flow, or evn the rear silencer has collapsed internally via Corrosion
Another I saw a little while ago was a duff Fuel Pump!! Saw this on a v8 Holden, it started ok, but when you wound it up driving, it just did the same things, it got short of fuel pressure, and slowed down, and up, and... Pump is about 200bucks. difficult to check really, tried press guage etc, and the only trick was to get one on return if it wasn't the problem
Are all the Air pipes/tubing sitting correctly, and IS the Diaphragm on the Brake servo ok, this messes air vacuum about too.
I know this sounds almost silly, but.. is the throttle opening fully?
Change the Petrol, you could have a crap batch in there.
Cam timing will slow it down, but i havent seen it make the car hop about the road when pushed!!
RichieOzzie wrote:Bit of a pain this one without actually having a look.
Ok, It could be gassing up. So I wonder if somewhere in the Exhuast is blocked, or maybe the Cat has dis-integrated, or the Exhuast has had a "Ding, and is restricting gas flow, or evn the rear silencer has collapsed internally via Corrosion
Another I saw a little while ago was a duff Fuel Pump!! Saw this on a v8 Holden, it started ok, but when you wound it up driving, it just did the same things, it got short of fuel pressure, and slowed down, and up, and... Pump is about 200bucks. difficult to check really, tried press guage etc, and the only trick was to get one on return if it wasn't the problem
Are all the Air pipes/tubing sitting correctly, and IS the Diaphragm on the Brake servo ok, this messes air vacuum about too.
I know this sounds almost silly, but.. is the throttle opening fully?
Change the Petrol, you could have a crap batch in there.
Cam timing will slow it down, but i havent seen it make the car hop about the road when pushed!!
This more like when it gets to 2,500 revs it just will not increase... and starts to splutter
Given that, am sure it's a Fuelling problem. Try the pump, Fuel lines or Filters to them.
Are you sure you got plenty of gas in the tank?, I know it sounds silly, but sometimes gauges tell lies!!...!
CHECK that the Fuse is seated properly, you can identify it by the detailing on the cover plate. I have seen them half kicked out.
There is a Relay under the Hood. When you open the hood, looking toward the car(front to back, just in front of the battery, there is a black plastic cover, measures about 25cmx11. one bolt holds it on(and it clips over a black rubber return hose for the coolant system).
Have a look in there, there are a number of Relays, these measure 4cmx4cm, black, brown or yellow.
look under the black cover, it identifies which one is which. Pull out the "Fuel pump" relay, check connections are not cruddy, and put back as you took it out.
Another is to start the motor, and let it idle. Pull the same relay out, the car will carry on running for a few seconds, and then start to die slowly. This proves the signal from ECU is controlling the Fuel pump relay. Now, this sounds odd, but if the car dies pretty quickly, the pressure from the pump is low, as when running normally, there is excess pressure in the fuel lines, so, if it dies damn near immediately, the pump is not building up enough pressure in the fuel system. Mine runs for about 4 seconds or so before it starts to falter.
When you took the Relay for the fuel pump out, you will see there are 4 connectors for the relay. If you have ign on, and bridge out the connectors for the power, you will be able to over-ride the relay control, and run the pump without starting the car, and usually you will hear the fuel rushing through the lines, and "sploshing" back into the tank(take the cap off, and listen). the "whirring" noise is the pump, if it is pretty noisy, then 9 out of 10 says its "shot" away.
CONNECTIONS!!!, are as follows, short of being too technical here. turn engine off completely. take a look under where you took the relay out of, it all sits on a badly fitted plastic base, and can be lifted slightly. There are 2 thin wires, and 2 thicker wires and they all are connected to connectors in the base of the Fuel Pump Relay socket, usually are the ones parallel to each other. Colours of the wires are batch dependant!-Sorry!
Now, from here, we can do a number of things.
1. Power the pump without ignition on AT ALL.
Take a wire, directly from the Positive(+) of the battery, and touch the wire to one of the THICK wire connectors(DO NOT touch it to the thin wire connectors, you will roast the ECU!!). if it flashes a little, then this is the right one, if not, try the other THICK wire connector.
You should hear the pump start to push petrol through the lines, and if you listen at the filler, maybe a little "Squirty!!" noise, But for sure, you will hear it pump the fuel around, a kind of "gushing" sound can be heard.
It is difficult to prove much more for the pump, but this way you can eliminate Fuel pump relay failure, and or wiring problems.
You could swap the relay for the other in the same "Box", and try the car. Look on the side, or top of the relay, they are the same ratings. BUT be sure they are the same type before substituting them about!!!, Colour is not important. I have a Black one, and a Brown one in this box, and are identical electrically.
Now, if you are feeling adventurous, try connecting between the 2 THICK wires, and take control of the fuel delivery and not use ECU control. This proves the ECU is good, and the relay is good. Do this, and fire up the car.
2. Make SURE the wire you bridged the connectors with is JUST bridging them both, and no chance of the getting loose at ALL. slap the cover on, and take her for a spin, if it is still the same..... better check bank balance, or find a good dismantlers. Watch how he takes the one out of the tank, and have a bash yourself.
Sorry I seem to go-on a bit here, but !!!Too much info is better than Too little info!!!!!!
But, by the way the motor craps out at about 2500rpm, i am thinking fuel delivery, as at about this RPM, the motor "Comes on Song", and needs increased fuelling. Either it is restricted by damaged fuel lines, blocked filters.. one at pump end, and one under the hood. OR.... Fuel Pump problems.
The pump is got to by lifting out the back seat, and under there is a big plastic cover, about 15cm diameter, and you got to get it removed to see top of the tank..... NO SMOKING from here on!!.
Have a look at the connectors, make sure they are clean inside. if they are not, go to Dick Smiths or Jaycar, and buy some Contact Cleaner Spray(Great for car electrics). Lash a little of this in the 2 ends of the connectors, and re-seat them a few times.
The reason for this is the current(amps) that gets to the pump is directly associated with the power the pump will take to push fuel about the system. No current = No pressure at injectors. AND!!! you can get fuel delivery without pressure!!!
Try her again, if is still the same, then, sadly, i would look into another pump for it. Partco can get new ones or maybe 360 Dynamics i guess, but i reakon less than 200bucks will get one. OR... go see a friendly Dismantlers, give 'em 60-80 bucks for one, and take a chance.
My guess is the Fuel pump is not Generating/holding the Fuel pressure, and one of the impellers in it are sheared at the motor spindle to plastic impellor. You can start the car, it runs quite well, but when you demand power, the pump cannot deliver enough fuel at sufficient pressure to fuel for it to accelerate, and it starts to splutter and get arsy for you.
Hope this helps you. it seems a lot to do, but it takes me seconds to do, AND... I do it at periodically, to push fuel around the system to help move any contaminants in the lines back to the tank.
Tank fitted fuel pumps are a pain to do, am sorry, but I am thinking "Pump Change Time"
