Help! New Vavle job, belt tensioners, etc................
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Help! New Vavle job, belt tensioners, etc................
So I have a 2000 Daewoo Lanos 1.6 DOHC automatic.
My timming belt went, so I had like 12 bent valves! I stripped the heads off and ordered all new valves, gaskets, timming belt, pullys, etc. I put everything back together, it seemed to run fine!
It had some other problems, so I borrowed a Car computer! I fixed a loose wire and my gears shift fine now. I had one last problem code to fix (miss fire on cylinder 4). I thought great, one last easy problem to fix loose spark wire. So I removed the oil cap to get off the larger cover, and noticed white crap under my cap.
I then checked my oil stick and noticed the same milkshake looking fluid. Now my water level was low, but the oil was fine before I drive it twice around the block. I even added a little oil, before I took the spin.
I'm thinking that I have a cracked cylinder, but my temp never went hot! Or that the Lanos Manual, suggested improper cylinder head torq settings. They suggested 18lbs per bolt, was that right? I noticed some other specs were wrong.
What do you guys think?
Ed
My timming belt went, so I had like 12 bent valves! I stripped the heads off and ordered all new valves, gaskets, timming belt, pullys, etc. I put everything back together, it seemed to run fine!
It had some other problems, so I borrowed a Car computer! I fixed a loose wire and my gears shift fine now. I had one last problem code to fix (miss fire on cylinder 4). I thought great, one last easy problem to fix loose spark wire. So I removed the oil cap to get off the larger cover, and noticed white crap under my cap.
I then checked my oil stick and noticed the same milkshake looking fluid. Now my water level was low, but the oil was fine before I drive it twice around the block. I even added a little oil, before I took the spin.
I'm thinking that I have a cracked cylinder, but my temp never went hot! Or that the Lanos Manual, suggested improper cylinder head torq settings. They suggested 18lbs per bolt, was that right? I noticed some other specs were wrong.
What do you guys think?
Ed
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Yeah, I had the head reprofiled! I drove the car 400 miles with no motor problems. I did have a tranny shifting problem, thats why I borrowed a car computer. I fixed a loose wire and my tranny problems where gone.
Q- What do you guys think is the Cylinder bolt head torq setting? I noticed some of the specs to be wrong, like the torque bolts for the belt back plate.
Ed
Q- What do you guys think is the Cylinder bolt head torq setting? I noticed some of the specs to be wrong, like the torque bolts for the belt back plate.
Ed
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- Location: New South Wales, Australia.
what you have is a leak inbetween oil and coolant lines... this could be due to wraped head, bad head gasket, cracked head or cracked block.
you said you machined the head so thats over and done with, i am sure you got a brand new head gasket... right??
their is a repair manual in the "general" section maybe the correct torque specs are their... i don't really remeber.
if all that didn't work then you got to try something like "GUNK block seal" product to try to solve this problem... again if this didn't work then you got to dismental the engine again for closer inspection.
MMamdouh
you said you machined the head so thats over and done with, i am sure you got a brand new head gasket... right??
their is a repair manual in the "general" section maybe the correct torque specs are their... i don't really remeber.
if all that didn't work then you got to try something like "GUNK block seal" product to try to solve this problem... again if this didn't work then you got to dismental the engine again for closer inspection.
MMamdouh
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They saythat the cam sen. some time get bad and the eng. turn back and
breake the timming belt. I have the same problem, lose 14 valves.
The heads use 18lbs per bolt at first then 90 degree angle, that a different wrench.
-use 50lbs per bolt
-3 step
-first step
10lbs
-second step
go up to 30lbs
-finally
go up to 50lbs
advice buy the 10 bolt new.
bolt 7 bolt 3 bolt 1 bolt 5 bolt 9
bolt 10 bolt 6 bolt 2 bolt 4 bolt 8
youv can buy a heat spray for the head gasket and sprinkle the gasket.
breake the timming belt. I have the same problem, lose 14 valves.
The heads use 18lbs per bolt at first then 90 degree angle, that a different wrench.
-use 50lbs per bolt
-3 step
-first step
10lbs
-second step
go up to 30lbs
-finally
go up to 50lbs
advice buy the 10 bolt new.
bolt 7 bolt 3 bolt 1 bolt 5 bolt 9
bolt 10 bolt 6 bolt 2 bolt 4 bolt 8
youv can buy a heat spray for the head gasket and sprinkle the gasket.
Last edited by yamil on Thu Feb 23, 2006 3:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
that is totally incorrect, the cam sensor got nothing to do with the timing belt snapping.yamil wrote:They saythat the cam sen. some time get bad and the eng. turn back and
breake the timming belt. I have the same problem, lose 14 valves.
the belt will snap after some miles of service depending on how hard it was used, it is recommended to replace it after 50k miles to avoid breaking it and damaging your valves and maybe your head as well... also it is recommended to replace the tensiner and idle pullies and water pump at the same time as a failing tensioner and/or idle pully is as bad as a broken timing belt and you will pay the same labour cost for replacing the waterpump later on.
cam sensor failure will throw in a CEL and the engine's performance might suffer a little bit but it will never cause the timing belt to snap at all... our Daewoos in Egypt are less emission conservative so they are not OBD II controled... we got the same engines as you have but we have no cam sensor, one CAT and one O2 sensor, the point here is that we are running our engines without a cam sensor at all... if your clames are right then we should have broken timing belts every other day but that is not the case here at all.
MMamdouh
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nothing in our engines is like VTEC engines.
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Last edited by MMamdouh on Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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the number of bent valves depends on where the cam shaft position at the time of the break occured... anyways i'd get a set of 16 valves regardless of how many bent valves i got so that i don't have to remove the head again so soon because of a faulty valve or so... its kinda like replacing the water pump with a timing belt job.
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
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Ok, like Mr. M said I replaced all 16 valves! I recieved a good price of $7 each! So I had them all done.
Now I must have miss understood the torque settings! I don'y quite understand what Yamil is saying. Can someone explain it easier for me? Some else told me it should be 50lbs. per bolt.
Q- I understand I have to buy a new head gasket, but do I have to have the head reprofiled again? I drove the car 400 miles with no problems. I checked the oil one morning and drove around my house twice, do you think the head is OK?
ED
Now I must have miss understood the torque settings! I don'y quite understand what Yamil is saying. Can someone explain it easier for me? Some else told me it should be 50lbs. per bolt.
Q- I understand I have to buy a new head gasket, but do I have to have the head reprofiled again? I drove the car 400 miles with no problems. I checked the oil one morning and drove around my house twice, do you think the head is OK?
ED
+1DomWoo wrote:as long as it didnt over heat for extended amount of time. it should be fine
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267

Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
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