SOHC Engine Loose of Power
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
SOHC Engine Loose of Power
Hi
Today I was driving and the car then started to loose power on acceleration.
It smells as if it is not firing on all 4 cylinders.
I have been told that it is some ignition pack on the front of the motor.
Quotes so far have been over $450 AUS.
It was suggested by another person to ask around
No visable alarms on dash, No audible alarms.
Car is like the spark leads are in the wrong order
Samantha
Yes A Dumb Blonde
Today I was driving and the car then started to loose power on acceleration.
It smells as if it is not firing on all 4 cylinders.
I have been told that it is some ignition pack on the front of the motor.
Quotes so far have been over $450 AUS.
It was suggested by another person to ask around
No visable alarms on dash, No audible alarms.
Car is like the spark leads are in the wrong order
Samantha
Yes A Dumb Blonde
ok samantha... if you are not firing at all 4 cyl. you won't be able to dirvie at all and if the leads are on the wrong place you won't be able to start it at all.
give us more feedback on the car like:
1- car/engine/tranny type.
2- kms/miles on the car.
3- ignition system serviced kms (spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack).
4- fuel system serviced kms (injectors, filter, pump).
5- air filter serviced kms.
6- engine mods list if available.
7- exact discription for the problem.
8- associated charactristics for the problem (when car hot, goes over 60 mph, turning left, A/C on,etc...)
9- CEL status (on, off, blinking) and prefferably the DTC code you got after the OBD scan in case the CEL is on/blinking.
10- any recent engine service done even if it is a very routine one.
if this ends up to be a faulty coil pack then you can get one cheap from www.ebay.com or you can try www.gm-car-parts.com.
if you suspect the leads are in the wrong place then chech this post:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2634
MMamdouh
give us more feedback on the car like:
1- car/engine/tranny type.
2- kms/miles on the car.
3- ignition system serviced kms (spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack).
4- fuel system serviced kms (injectors, filter, pump).
5- air filter serviced kms.
6- engine mods list if available.
7- exact discription for the problem.
8- associated charactristics for the problem (when car hot, goes over 60 mph, turning left, A/C on,etc...)
9- CEL status (on, off, blinking) and prefferably the DTC code you got after the OBD scan in case the CEL is on/blinking.
10- any recent engine service done even if it is a very routine one.
if this ends up to be a faulty coil pack then you can get one cheap from www.ebay.com or you can try www.gm-car-parts.com.
if you suspect the leads are in the wrong place then chech this post:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2634
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
MMamdouh wrote:ok samantha... if you are not firing at all 4 cyl. you won't be able to dirvie at all and if the leads are on the wrong place you won't be able to start it at all.
give us more feedback on the car like:
1- car/engine/tranny type.
3door 1998 5speed 1.5l sohc
2- kms/miles on the car.
100K with new motor
3- ignition system serviced kms (spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack).
Not sure - coil pack I have been told could be the prob
4- fuel system serviced kms (injectors, filter, pump).
about 8k ago
5- air filter serviced kms.
about 8 k ago
6- engine mods list if available.
didnt know there where any
7- exact discription for the problem.
turned left in car went top accelerate and car was not responsive.
If I leave the accelerator about 1/2 off the flor I was able to get home doing about 40km hour
any more then that and it seemed as if it was missing and jerking
8- associated charactristics for the problem (when car hot, goes over 60 mph, turning left, A/C on,etc...)
continual
9- CEL status (on, off, blinking) and prefferably the DTC code you got after the OBD scan in case the CEL is on/blinking.
none
10- any recent engine service done even if it is a very routine one.
replacement motor due to droped timing belt... I now know it has one and needs to be replaced very 60k-80K
Last one did 130K
if this ends up to be a faulty coil pack then you can get one cheap from www.ebay.com or you can try www.gm-car-parts.com.
if you suspect the leads are in the wrong place then chech this post:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2634
They are all ok
MMamdouh
Regards
Samantha
Cams Official o2f3s3
AKA Official
Samantha
Cams Official o2f3s3
AKA Official
If it's after a hard turn into a corner, chances are something's slipped out. Wait till tomorrow morning, then try and get it up to speed. If not, then maybe something to do with transmission? I have a power loss after flinging my 1.5i around corners; the car bogs like all shit, but i ease off, and about 2 seconds later it comes good again.
I'll keep thinkin.
I'll keep thinkin.
Big Eye Pictures - Best art evar!
THought of this and nothing seems to be lost...cpd wrote:If it's after a hard turn into a corner, chances are something's slipped out. Wait till tomorrow morning, then try and get it up to speed. If not, then maybe something to do with transmission? I have a power loss after flinging my 1.5i around corners; the car bogs like all shit, but i ease off, and about 2 seconds later it comes good again.
I'll keep thinkin.
It still does the same it is the motor in nuetral
idles but of you increase the revs it starts to pigroot and carry on
Regards
Samantha
Cams Official o2f3s3
AKA Official
Samantha
Cams Official o2f3s3
AKA Official
can you get a coil pack from a friend to test if yours is bad? i guess the coil pack will be expensive so it is better to test first before you spend your money.
also if the coil pack is bad it will show at all speeds... this sounds like bad spark plugs or bad wires so i'd start by testing/replacing those as they are not that expensive.
i wouldn't rule out fauly injectors as well, try some injector cleaner and see if it makes things better... did you replace the fuel filter at the last service you did to the fuel system?
and finally if all that didn't solve your problem i'd take a look at the timing belt, it might have jumped a tooth and messed up the timing.
keep us posted with what you find
MMamdouh
also if the coil pack is bad it will show at all speeds... this sounds like bad spark plugs or bad wires so i'd start by testing/replacing those as they are not that expensive.
i wouldn't rule out fauly injectors as well, try some injector cleaner and see if it makes things better... did you replace the fuel filter at the last service you did to the fuel system?
and finally if all that didn't solve your problem i'd take a look at the timing belt, it might have jumped a tooth and messed up the timing.
keep us posted with what you find
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Thanks I will do thatMMamdouh wrote:can you get a coil pack from a friend to test if yours is bad? i guess the coil pack will be expensive so it is better to test first before you spend your money.
also if the coil pack is bad it will show at all speeds... this sounds like bad spark plugs or bad wires so i'd start by testing/replacing those as they are not that expensive.
i wouldn't rule out fauly injectors as well, try some injector cleaner and see if it makes things better... did you replace the fuel filter at the last service you did to the fuel system?
and finally if all that didn't solve your problem i'd take a look at the timing belt, it might have jumped a tooth and messed up the timing.
keep us posted with what you find
MMamdouh
I will start off with the leads and the plugs. The filter was replaced
Teh injectors are off the replacement motor I did keep the ones of the damaged motor
I will post what I do and what I find thanks for your help everyone
Samantha
Yes I am a dumb blonde... But I can dye my hair any colour...
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- Junior
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:49 pm
- Location: New South Wales, Australia.
Well, it sounds like the plug leads to me. Daewoo's have a tendency to eat them, my 2 Woo's have eaten them. they seem to last anything up to 4-5 years. I have just got to change the Leganza's ones. I took one apart, and found out the carbonized part actually burns at the contacts at both ends. To repair you have to get the old ones off, clean the contacts, and make a good contact that won't corrode, or arc up again. and.. you cant bend them too much either, or the rest of the core of the cable will damage inside. Get new ones... good quality ones too!!!
the first time you notice, it seems to have a slight mis-fire, and almost like a hesitation, and gets worse. Sometimes in a morning you will notice an un-even fast idle when you start it up, and then it kinda fades away. Sometimes, when warm, it will do the same. I had a game at the roadside. i went to get some gas, started away, and as i got to the roundabout, it lost power!!. Now i do know one thing, if it mis-fires, and you continue to run, the unburnt fuel gets to hit the CAT Convertor, and explodes... and damages the CAT... i know, i had to change the CAT, it had the front end shattered into bits. Have a look at web sites about this, but it is true, mis-fires can, and will damage the CAT for you. although yours sounds like it is in the first stages at the moment, if it drops to 3 cylinders, get to stop when you can. Mother was using mine, and made it "limp home", and bang went the CAT!!, or shall i say it started to dis-integrate!!!, lost efficiency, and failed the EPA emissions. There will be no CEL light for plug leads, as thereis no way to sense the problem. if it was the ign pack or electronics that drive them, yes, you will get a CEL light. Another here is it will block the porous sensor on the O2 sensor, and you will, over a period of time, loose this little gem, they are a fickle device!! So, change the plug leads asap. another cause could be the TPS(Throttle position Sensor), this has an exact setting, and if the throttle doens't close properly, and the next day you run as per usual, the CPU is thinking that the setting has increased, and try to under-fuel the engine, again, this happened on the Lanos, and it kinda mis-fires and is difficult to reproduce, it just has a wierd mis-fire, you cant quite clearly identify, but thats another story, i know that one too....
Anyway, the Lanos is da 1.5 ltr Ozzie flyer.... and a good handling car for its class.....
the first time you notice, it seems to have a slight mis-fire, and almost like a hesitation, and gets worse. Sometimes in a morning you will notice an un-even fast idle when you start it up, and then it kinda fades away. Sometimes, when warm, it will do the same. I had a game at the roadside. i went to get some gas, started away, and as i got to the roundabout, it lost power!!. Now i do know one thing, if it mis-fires, and you continue to run, the unburnt fuel gets to hit the CAT Convertor, and explodes... and damages the CAT... i know, i had to change the CAT, it had the front end shattered into bits. Have a look at web sites about this, but it is true, mis-fires can, and will damage the CAT for you. although yours sounds like it is in the first stages at the moment, if it drops to 3 cylinders, get to stop when you can. Mother was using mine, and made it "limp home", and bang went the CAT!!, or shall i say it started to dis-integrate!!!, lost efficiency, and failed the EPA emissions. There will be no CEL light for plug leads, as thereis no way to sense the problem. if it was the ign pack or electronics that drive them, yes, you will get a CEL light. Another here is it will block the porous sensor on the O2 sensor, and you will, over a period of time, loose this little gem, they are a fickle device!! So, change the plug leads asap. another cause could be the TPS(Throttle position Sensor), this has an exact setting, and if the throttle doens't close properly, and the next day you run as per usual, the CPU is thinking that the setting has increased, and try to under-fuel the engine, again, this happened on the Lanos, and it kinda mis-fires and is difficult to reproduce, it just has a wierd mis-fire, you cant quite clearly identify, but thats another story, i know that one too....
Anyway, the Lanos is da 1.5 ltr Ozzie flyer.... and a good handling car for its class.....
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- Junior
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:49 pm
- Location: New South Wales, Australia.
If the engine is stuttering and such, I would look at all the spark plugs. It sounds as thought one of them is fouling (and thus the car is mis-firing). Just take them out and look for a nice brown color on each one. If one looks charred (black) or melted, or covered in oil... replace the sparkplugs. If it's covered in oil, let us know, because that's a gasket gone (dunno which one it would be on the SOHC).
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- Junior
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:49 pm
- Location: New South Wales, Australia.
Usual problem... Fouled plugs= disaster on SOHC. rodgered valve usually or the hyd lifter is blocked, usually you get a tapping noise. Plugs dont just foul as a normal thing in this century. Head Gasket may be ruptured, sometimes caused by fracture in the head,.. but rare.. these motors are almost bullet proof. if the plug is fouled, it could not be firing, and then you would strip it all apart for nothing. Mate, this is a plug lead failure.... it IS normal for Daewoos, and Opels, the crappy carbon wires burn internally, and at the connector end. Bin the stock lead set, get some good quality ones, set the plugs to 1.0mm. if it continues at odd times, it could well be the TPS setting... and it is a bitch to set-up.... but, given mine did it, i have more than a passing familiarisation. I tried to blame the O2 sensor, and replaced it with ahybrid one, and yep, it did run better, but that was on idle, when running, it is warm enuff, but not fast enough to affect the hic-ups she says she gets. LEADS, LEADS, LEADS...........first, and cheapest to replace!!! you know it makes sense!!
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- moron
- Posts: 4493
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i would check plugs too. my lanos 1.6L fouled a plug and made for hell when driving. they are easy to look at and cost a whopping 5 dollars to replace if they are messed up, so check those too before you just go out for wires. of all the symptoms you listed, it's gotta be a plug or wire and my vote is plug.
check the plugs and wires and come back to tell us your findings. good luck!
check the plugs and wires and come back to tell us your findings. good luck!
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- Junior
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:49 pm
- Location: New South Wales, Australia.
Mate, you got this all wrong, the plugs dont foul for no reason!!!! something is causing them to if it is!!!! No Spark, or sh#te petrol!!!, or no compression, or stuffed valve guide seals, sh##ed rings, if it was injector.. they dont flow enuff to be that bad, they just stop everything.. but i aint seen em that bad....... YET even when massive flow rate is applied, you can still fire the motor, and it just dumps the unburnt gas. O2 sensor is a narrow band device, and cannot control much variance in fuelling, so that is out of the equation. I am the proud warehouse man for 3 sets of crap Carbon leads... take one apart, see how flexible they arn't, look at the connection... its corroded.... even heres a good one, this problem could be a stuffed rotor arm, or distributor cap!!! ever thought about that angle... yes, this engine does have one. the ignition system used still applies too much current to the wires, that, along with engine bay temperatures, and constrant flexing, and harsh environment.....
In oz.. look toward crap fuel too, it often causes this problem, there is a station near me, which often gives an odd type of fuel!?!? dunno why, but mine runs like a 3 1/2 legged pig when i use it, i changed service station.... and it all ran smooth again. another trick is to disconnect the battery for a few mins, let the ECU re-set to per-set curves, and let the car adjust acordingly. Follow the instructions in this forum, it worked for me.
Mate, the stock ign leads on Woos are crap, just meter a few new sets, and see the variance, ok resistance cuts out current, but should not affect voltage. but, stuffed leads, worn dist cap, worn Rotor arm, and cruddy Gas.... poss slightly worn valve seats, dust and dirt under the hood..... so, take the plugs out, and see not much, all you can see is what you know....!!! it aint firing right!!! maybe, the plug leads are tracking to ground... this will make the plug look oily and crappy too....... sustitute leads, and i reakon the problem will vanish, replace the lead you pulled off, and it still may be ok.... i did this only 2 weeks ago.... and it runs ok... wierd, but the leads are not exactly flexible, and start to spark erode inside too. take off the dizzy cap, and muck-it-out, prob has white dust in it... Aluminium oxide!!, when damp(absorbs moisture, look at anti-perspirant ingredients) it tracks all over!!.
Just to alay any more, i had one and the same fault, and it improved by changing leads,... but it turned out to be the TPS adjustment..!!!
Runs a dream now.... Some dumb assed mechanic said he wanted to rip the head off at Daewoo in Sydney!!! DOPE! the T Body was not closing properly, and gave a false strt point resistance to the ecu= more than 0.450 volts, and the car ran accordingly, and had an odd mis-fire for ages, it felt like when the motor was under pressure, it was happening, so, yep, i looked at the HT circuit for the reason.... No, it was the TPS, and so easy to adjust when you know how. 1 meter, and small pliers!!!
mis-fires are an odd thing, but as i said, these engines run for ever, it the other bits what go wrong first. i trust my Lanos to go to Queensland if necessary, some 11 hrs away. of course, there could be a duff connector as has been said, and the best place to look is under a black plastic cover, under the hood, in line with the steering column, cos damp gets in there, and can give a crappy connection somewhere!!
..........!!
In oz.. look toward crap fuel too, it often causes this problem, there is a station near me, which often gives an odd type of fuel!?!? dunno why, but mine runs like a 3 1/2 legged pig when i use it, i changed service station.... and it all ran smooth again. another trick is to disconnect the battery for a few mins, let the ECU re-set to per-set curves, and let the car adjust acordingly. Follow the instructions in this forum, it worked for me.
Mate, the stock ign leads on Woos are crap, just meter a few new sets, and see the variance, ok resistance cuts out current, but should not affect voltage. but, stuffed leads, worn dist cap, worn Rotor arm, and cruddy Gas.... poss slightly worn valve seats, dust and dirt under the hood..... so, take the plugs out, and see not much, all you can see is what you know....!!! it aint firing right!!! maybe, the plug leads are tracking to ground... this will make the plug look oily and crappy too....... sustitute leads, and i reakon the problem will vanish, replace the lead you pulled off, and it still may be ok.... i did this only 2 weeks ago.... and it runs ok... wierd, but the leads are not exactly flexible, and start to spark erode inside too. take off the dizzy cap, and muck-it-out, prob has white dust in it... Aluminium oxide!!, when damp(absorbs moisture, look at anti-perspirant ingredients) it tracks all over!!.
Just to alay any more, i had one and the same fault, and it improved by changing leads,... but it turned out to be the TPS adjustment..!!!
Runs a dream now.... Some dumb assed mechanic said he wanted to rip the head off at Daewoo in Sydney!!! DOPE! the T Body was not closing properly, and gave a false strt point resistance to the ecu= more than 0.450 volts, and the car ran accordingly, and had an odd mis-fire for ages, it felt like when the motor was under pressure, it was happening, so, yep, i looked at the HT circuit for the reason.... No, it was the TPS, and so easy to adjust when you know how. 1 meter, and small pliers!!!
mis-fires are an odd thing, but as i said, these engines run for ever, it the other bits what go wrong first. i trust my Lanos to go to Queensland if necessary, some 11 hrs away. of course, there could be a duff connector as has been said, and the best place to look is under a black plastic cover, under the hood, in line with the steering column, cos damp gets in there, and can give a crappy connection somewhere!!
..........!!