1.5L Lanos Turbo Charge/Intercooler piping - New PICTURES!
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if that engine has stock internals, i think your claim of 390nm of torque @ 6psi is questionable . that dyno needs to be checked. take it to another dyno to be sure. a jump from 91Nm to 390Nm is quite impressive but not at 6psi and a stock engine. you will brake parts before you even get to 250Nm. give details on you setup please.
got drift?
Here are the details, http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3189ubuyau wrote:search this area and you'll find details.
--Tim
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86 HP at the wheels and a top run of 390 Nm of torque, according to Google that is about 288 ft/lb of torque in American terms. I don't think that my conversion is correct, can someone verify that 1 Newton Meter = .74 Foot- Pounds.
If it is correct, then that means you are running, from stock numbers at the crank of 85 HP and 96 Lbs Torque.
Top- 86 HP, 288 Lbs Torque
Avg- 74 HP, 237 Lbs Torque
Something must be wrong with that Dyno, cause that is super off-balance, or you would be snapping engine parts left and right. I don't understand how the torque numbers can go up 221 Lbs while the horsepower readings go up only 35 HP. It doesn't make sense, they should have gone up proportionately with a turbo. 288 Lbs would put you close to a Mustang GT which runs 0-100 in 5.2 seconds and it weighs 1000 lbs more. Your 0-100 time should be in the 5's or less with numbers like that. Overall, I think that the numbers are a little skewed probabally due to a Dyno malfunction as again, it is a strange seperation of the torque and HP numbers. But if everything is in order, you should have one of the fastest Lanoses in the world.
If it is correct, then that means you are running, from stock numbers at the crank of 85 HP and 96 Lbs Torque.
Top- 86 HP, 288 Lbs Torque
Avg- 74 HP, 237 Lbs Torque
Something must be wrong with that Dyno, cause that is super off-balance, or you would be snapping engine parts left and right. I don't understand how the torque numbers can go up 221 Lbs while the horsepower readings go up only 35 HP. It doesn't make sense, they should have gone up proportionately with a turbo. 288 Lbs would put you close to a Mustang GT which runs 0-100 in 5.2 seconds and it weighs 1000 lbs more. Your 0-100 time should be in the 5's or less with numbers like that. Overall, I think that the numbers are a little skewed probabally due to a Dyno malfunction as again, it is a strange seperation of the torque and HP numbers. But if everything is in order, you should have one of the fastest Lanoses in the world.
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[quote="ubuyau"]The results are in!
Best run - 86hp @ the wheels (nice ), 390Nm of torque :twisted: !!!!!
Avg run - 74hp @ the wheels and 321Nm of torque.
This is not possible.Noway.....
A C20LET at 270-280hp has 390Nm of torque.
Best run - 86hp @ the wheels (nice ), 390Nm of torque :twisted: !!!!!
Avg run - 74hp @ the wheels and 321Nm of torque.
This is not possible.Noway.....
A C20LET at 270-280hp has 390Nm of torque.
M.Ladwig 2.0 EcoTec 1.400ps -7,65@202,02+7.12@189mph world records FWD!
680whp
680whp
Nobody ever comented on the vids??
Slammed wrote:Ok when it is all done Transfering you guys can goto www.standalonecustoms.com then click on Videos enjoy
should be done with in 1 hour of this post
mmamdouh wrote:files sent.Slammed wrote:If you send me the vids I will host them my email is slammed@gmail.com also you can use www.yousendit.com send it to yourself and post the link for all to use
MMamdouh
My Oil feed arrangement and turbo
Turbo from bottom - Oil return hose is 1/2 inch stainless steel braided then lagged in heat wrap for extra protection. Yes it flows a little uphill but runs perfectly.
Turbo from the top without the oil feed hose (i spilt a little bit of oil).
Sandwich plate with christmas tree - 1/4 inch stainless steel braided hose - all sealed (extremely important!)
Sandwich plate with christmas tree (top view).
Christmas tree arrangement.
Refitted to the car (Notice the aluminium speedflow arrangement for the oil return - the blue nut and red elbow Speedflow fitting was screwed onto the weld on Speedflow adaptor).
--Tim
Turbo from bottom - Oil return hose is 1/2 inch stainless steel braided then lagged in heat wrap for extra protection. Yes it flows a little uphill but runs perfectly.
Turbo from the top without the oil feed hose (i spilt a little bit of oil).
Sandwich plate with christmas tree - 1/4 inch stainless steel braided hose - all sealed (extremely important!)
Sandwich plate with christmas tree (top view).
Christmas tree arrangement.
Refitted to the car (Notice the aluminium speedflow arrangement for the oil return - the blue nut and red elbow Speedflow fitting was screwed onto the weld on Speedflow adaptor).
--Tim
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After re-reading the Maximum Boost book by Corky Bell for the first time since i finished the project and also visiting http://www.homemadeturbo.com and http://www.turbosaturns.net and http://www.honda-tech.com i am convinced that colder spark plugs were an essential i had missed
Today i felt it was time i got off my ass and order my colder plugs
I rock up to my local and ask if they can get me in some NGK BPR7E V Groove plugs and they say they have some in stock After months of occassionally checking if they got them, by chance they finally had some ordered in! I dont know if they had them in just for summer or what (its been getting >40deg C upto 45C! (>104deg F upto 113) here the last couple of weeks)
Anyways, pulled out the old plugs (they looked okay they hadnt done many kilometers) and put in the colder plugs. It idles smoother and the exhaust note is a bit quieter too. I drove it around a lot on various roads and it feels like i've lost a bit of torque pulling up hills but it feels quicker accelerating in a straight line? Its better than just a new set of original temp plugs too (since they got changed not long ago)...
It's now going to be recommended in the turbo guide to go one step colder plugs when turboing! Its a noticeable difference.
Also after a long session (hours) of "spirited" boosting, when i popped the bonnet the engine would be screaming hot and the heat wave would melt your face! With the new colder plugs it was only a bit hotter than pre turbo temps?
Would this change the under bonnet temp too?
All in all - another small mod proving a good noticeable difference! Highly recommended.
--Tim
Today i felt it was time i got off my ass and order my colder plugs
I rock up to my local and ask if they can get me in some NGK BPR7E V Groove plugs and they say they have some in stock After months of occassionally checking if they got them, by chance they finally had some ordered in! I dont know if they had them in just for summer or what (its been getting >40deg C upto 45C! (>104deg F upto 113) here the last couple of weeks)
Anyways, pulled out the old plugs (they looked okay they hadnt done many kilometers) and put in the colder plugs. It idles smoother and the exhaust note is a bit quieter too. I drove it around a lot on various roads and it feels like i've lost a bit of torque pulling up hills but it feels quicker accelerating in a straight line? Its better than just a new set of original temp plugs too (since they got changed not long ago)...
It's now going to be recommended in the turbo guide to go one step colder plugs when turboing! Its a noticeable difference.
Also after a long session (hours) of "spirited" boosting, when i popped the bonnet the engine would be screaming hot and the heat wave would melt your face! With the new colder plugs it was only a bit hotter than pre turbo temps?
ngk website wrote:In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70?C to 100?C from the combustion chamber.
Would this change the under bonnet temp too?
All in all - another small mod proving a good noticeable difference! Highly recommended.
--Tim
I never touched the pump - so flow is stock. I just bumped up the pressure with the malpassi adjustable rising rate fuel regulator and put in 2L Nubira injectors.gtwoo'd wrote:Ubuyau, i was just wondering if you did any modification to your fuel pump, if so how did you do it.
Im currently turboing my woo and the only problem i have come across is changing the fuel pump to a higher rate flow one.
Details of your setup?
--Tim
I have a Lanos 1.5 SOHC 8v, gt25, 44cc injectors, front mount, top gun spark cable, ngk iridium IX spark plugs, custom exhaust manafold through Tom, Apexi Safc-2 controller (which is getting installed and dyno-tuned tomorrow.
After looking into previous discussion about the stock fuel pump flow rate, i figured i shouldn't need to adjust the pump. Would i be rught?
After looking into previous discussion about the stock fuel pump flow rate, i figured i shouldn't need to adjust the pump. Would i be rught?
How much boost are you planning to run?gtwoo'd wrote:I have a Lanos 1.5 SOHC 8v, gt25, 44cc injectors, front mount, top gun spark cable, ngk iridium IX spark plugs, custom exhaust manafold through Tom, Apexi Safc-2 controller (which is getting installed and dyno-tuned tomorrow.
After looking into previous discussion about the stock fuel pump flow rate, i figured i shouldn't need to adjust the pump. Would i be rught?
Im not sure what injectors you're using - but you might want to think about running a fuel pressure regulator and dropping the fuel pressure if they are alot bigger...
the apexi safc doesnt have timing control, so id watch you EGTs when you start trimming back your MAP voltage to tune your air fuel ratio - the timing might get advanced too much - but no one has used an Apexi SAFC with a turbo lanos. If it works id love to know how you go!!
Im considering a piggyback ecu (since it gets very rich in higher revs), but not sure what to get - if SAFC works good enough then id consider that
--Tim