tunning componet amp

[kinkyllama]

I have the 6.5 front componets that im gonna power later tonight with a SLP 520 amp.

http://sonicelectronix.com/item_3773.html

Im using my 8g wires that i had for my subs. How do i connect it to everything? Im not fimiliar with the componet wires yet and havnt an idea what they use. But want an idea before i bust everything open.

Whats an REM wire?

What should i set the crossover for? full, HPF, or LPF? What the hell do those mean?

Whats the high input for? Do i need it?

What Hz should i use (40Hz-250Hz)?


Thanks in Advance

[Dillon]

Did it not come with a manual? And i love that amp it has a super clean look

[kinkyllama]

Did it not come with a manual? And i love that amp it has a super clean look

Yeah but i left it at my brothers which is a 45min drive round trip. Its there with all my subs/amps/box that we were working on and i wont be going there for a couple more weeks.


Yeah its a cool looking amp.. very clean

[elhamy201]

i use this amp but "the egyptian assembly one " to power my 15 pioneer sub it is very good and clean amp

[PrecisionBoost]

I have the 6.5 front componets that im gonna power later tonight with a SLP 520 amp.

Whats an REM wire?
What should i set the crossover for? full, HPF, or LPF? What the hell do those mean?
Whats the high input for? Do i need it?
What Hz should i use (40Hz-250Hz)?

If it's blue then the REM is to be connected to the "antenna" or "remote" wire from the deck (also blue)..... it turns the amp on a fraction of a second after you turn on the deck... if you don't use it and power up the amp right away you will get a loud "thump" when your deck turns on.

Full means that all the sound will go through the speaker.

HPF = High pass filter..... so it gets rid of low bass.... which is good if you 6.5" speakers distort when bass notes are hit

LPF = Low Pass Filter..... so it only lets bass in.... this is for when you hook up to a subwoofer.... since a subwoofer will typcially distort sounds above a few thousand hertz.

The Hz are for configuration of the crossover points for the filters.

If I were you..... I'd run it on full and see how it sounds.... if the 6.5" speakers start to sound bad at high volume during bass notes...... turn on the HPF and set it to 40hz.

This way bass notes under 40hz will be removed and the speakers will distort less.

If you have an adjustable knob to move from 40hz to 250hz and you find that the 6.5" speakers are still distorting at high volume during bass notes.... just continue to turn up the the knob towards 250hz until it sounds good.

The higher up you go.... the less bass you will get from the 6.5" so it's a matter of ballancing the distortion levels at high volume with the sound quality..... crossing them over at 250hz will remove most of the good bass you would normally like to hear from a set of 6.5" speakers... so it will be crystal clear but it will sound funny.

If I were to guess.... the HPF set at 75hz will probably be perfect for those speakers depending on the quality of the amp and speakers.

[kinkyllama]

Cool thanks! I'll get to it later in the day.

Didnt know you knew much about audio either

[PrecisionBoost]

I used to compete..... and I have about $15,000 worth of stereo equipment..... huge 1200Wrms capable bass Amp... Digital graphical signal processor with surround sound modes.....eight JL Audio 8W1 subs... two alpine 8051 8" subs.... Alpine 1000W 10" sub ( Type R?)... two 12 output Digital crossover networks.... a half dozen amps... a half dozen sets of high power mids and upper mids ( 6 1/2" down to 3" )(most are rated for 100Wrms or more ).... half dozen sets of tweeters.

The list goes on an on..... I don't comment much on stereo stuff.... I don't have time to look at all areas of the forum.

Usually Oz would answer the stereo related questions like this.... but now that he's gone.... I will try and pay a little more attension to this area of the forum.

[daewoomofo]

what happened to OZ?

[PrecisionBoost]

I'm an Electronics Engineering Tech.............. so in theory I can design my own audio equipment.

Like usual.... I lack the time to fool around with making amplifiers and other stuff.

Did you know your average amplifier costs about $25 to $50 to make regardless of the output?

Yup... the power mosfets used in most amplifiers cost about $0.25 each.

It's really a rip off..... it costs only a couple dollars more to make a 1200W amp than it does for a 100W amp.

That's part of the reason I wanted to get into making amps...... lots of profit.

I also wanted to specialize in a series of "Class A" amplifiers as they are way cleaner and capable of unbeliveable clarity.

99% of the amps are a switchmode class A/B which is much more efficent than the class A amplifiers but they have lots of distortion.

It's kinda complicated to explain..... but a Class A/B doesn't reproduce the original waveform.... it uses some circuitry to help "guess" the correct waveform.... but it's never as perfect as a Class A.

I can't really explain the difference.... but you will find that most of the high end home audio uses class A circuitry.

[PrecisionBoost]

what happened to OZ?

Oz went to school I think..... so he's rarely on the forum.

I don't know if he sold his Daewoo's or not.... I think he still has at least one but it's not modified.

[kinkyllama]

Dang if i woulda known you had 8" subs i woulda tried to buy them off you. Oh well.

Is there any technical stuff you dont know?

[PrecisionBoost]

Sure.... but I do lots and lots of research.... I don't read fiction.... only magazines and non-fiction like textbooks, guides and books by people like Corky Bell (maximum boost)

I haven't really been heavy into audio for a long time.... when I was 16 to 19 it was my primary interest.... I didn't know much about cars back then.

Then I bought a 1967 Beetle and that all changed.... got the car (which was a POS) and an extra engine for $800.

I ended up getting a bunch of guides on repairing Beetles.... and I tore down my very first engine which was a 1.5L air cooled engine.... the cylinder head and cylinder sleeves bolted onto this tiny block with four really long bolts.

So the cylinder walls weren't part of the block itself.... cool design.... it takes about 5 minutes to completely disassemble it to the point where your looking at the block, connecting rods and pistons.

I could actually pick up the engine and walk around with it.

I think the record for removal of a beetle engine is something like 11 seconds.... you remove a few bolts and wham.... the engine comes right out from underneath. ( the record holders had it up on a hoist and let the engine drop onto the ground )

[PrecisionBoost]

If your ever interested in designing sub boxes I have a half dozen programs...... I even have one that will allow you to put out a "test" signal at any given frequency (it also can do sweeps)

It's great for tuning the system.... just need a laptop.

I think the program is called WinISD..... you should be able to find it as freeware on the web.

[kinkyllama]

If your ever interested in designing sub boxes I have a half dozen programs...... I even have one that will allow you to put out a "test" signal at any given frequency (it also can do sweeps)

It's great for tuning the system.... just need a laptop.

I think the program is called WinISD..... you should be able to find it as freeware on the web.

I finished doing the subs box awhile ago. Although i made a mistake in my measuring but said screw it. I should have 1.5cu internal ft per sub but i ended with approx 1.3


Anyways, I have the amp all hooked up... just need to connect the speakers to it. This is where the problem is.. which wires are the componet wires? I have NO idea.. all the wires go into the same place

[kinkyllama]

Sure.... but I do lots and lots of research.... I don't read fiction.... only magazines and non-fiction like textbooks, guides and books by people like Corky Bell (maximum boost)

I haven't really been heavy into audio for a long time.... when I was 16 to 19 it was my primary interest.... I didn't know much about cars back then.

Then I bought a 1967 Beetle and that all changed.... got the car (which was a POS) and an extra engine for $800.

I ended up getting a bunch of guides on repairing Beetles.... and I tore down my very first engine which was a 1.5L air cooled engine.... the cylinder head and cylinder sleeves bolted onto this tiny block with four really long bolts.

So the cylinder walls weren't part of the block itself.... cool design.... it takes about 5 minutes to completely disassemble it to the point where your looking at the block, connecting rods and pistons.

I could actually pick up the engine and walk around with it.

I think the record for removal of a beetle engine is something like 11 seconds.... you remove a few bolts and wham.... the engine comes right out from underneath. ( the record holders had it up on a hoist and let the engine drop onto the ground )

Im into audio.. and have an amazing system in my car and home.. but done turn either up which makes it kinda pointless. Only reason for such a powerfull system is when like hanging out camping (where no1s around) or hanging out at the park doing whatever and just listening to the music.

11 seconds? wow. That'd be a great car to learn on i guess.