Project Daewoo Lanos 2.0L Turbo
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- PrecisionBoost
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- PrecisionBoost
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- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Wow I'm lucky... the engine is now totally apart except for the crankshaft and I am plesantly surprised at how little wear the engine has considering it had 220,000km on it.
Everything looks brand new.... the block cylinders just need to be deglazed and I can re-use the existing pistons if I wanted.
Doesn't look like it's been abused in any way.... must have been driven by an old granny or something.
So basicly I could realisticly throw in a new set of rings and it would be ready to go.
I'm still going to get the block dunked into a de-greaser tank to remove the 16 years of old gunky oil inside and out and I will probably get them to hone the cylinders to give it a nice cross hatch pattern so the rings wear in nicely.
I also still plan to rebuild the head and get it ported and polished but the present condition of the engine is going to make this rebuild very easy.
I now have about 150 or more pictures of the step by step removal and disassembly of the engine and I hope to get them up onto my webspace one of these days for everyone to look at.
I would have to say that the most time consuming part of the engine swap thus far has been the removal of the evil tranny to block bolts and the wiring harness.
Everything looks brand new.... the block cylinders just need to be deglazed and I can re-use the existing pistons if I wanted.
Doesn't look like it's been abused in any way.... must have been driven by an old granny or something.
So basicly I could realisticly throw in a new set of rings and it would be ready to go.
I'm still going to get the block dunked into a de-greaser tank to remove the 16 years of old gunky oil inside and out and I will probably get them to hone the cylinders to give it a nice cross hatch pattern so the rings wear in nicely.
I also still plan to rebuild the head and get it ported and polished but the present condition of the engine is going to make this rebuild very easy.
I now have about 150 or more pictures of the step by step removal and disassembly of the engine and I hope to get them up onto my webspace one of these days for everyone to look at.
I would have to say that the most time consuming part of the engine swap thus far has been the removal of the evil tranny to block bolts and the wiring harness.
- PrecisionBoost
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Well now that Christmas is over with I've finally got the engine totally disassebled down to the last nut and bolt ( every part is labeled and bagged separately and each part has had a picture of it during disassembly so that it will be very easy to put things back where they should be)
I just finished taking my head apart (compressed the springs, dropped out the valve retainers,poped the valve out and removed the valve seals and valve guides.
I was recently notified by GsiTurbo ( 2.0L Turbo C20E in a LeMans) that there is a roller rocker kit for the 8V head so I might keep it after all.
I'm thinking about seeing if I can pick up some Titanium valves to handle the extra stress and heat but I haven't made up my mind yet.
For those who don't know the stock head makes use of hydraulic lifters.
A roller cam / roller rocker kit will turn it into a purely mechanical process and the transition of valve opening (and duration) are improved greatly.
Right now it would seem that one of the main problems with the turbo engine is "valve float" which is when the valve doesn't move up and down like it's supposed to (so sometimes if your unlucky the valve will slap the piston and do a bit of damage)
Roller rocker kits are purely mechanical so they can be set up to avoid valve float a little easier than hydraulic lifters.
I just finished taking my head apart (compressed the springs, dropped out the valve retainers,poped the valve out and removed the valve seals and valve guides.
I was recently notified by GsiTurbo ( 2.0L Turbo C20E in a LeMans) that there is a roller rocker kit for the 8V head so I might keep it after all.
I'm thinking about seeing if I can pick up some Titanium valves to handle the extra stress and heat but I haven't made up my mind yet.
For those who don't know the stock head makes use of hydraulic lifters.
A roller cam / roller rocker kit will turn it into a purely mechanical process and the transition of valve opening (and duration) are improved greatly.
Right now it would seem that one of the main problems with the turbo engine is "valve float" which is when the valve doesn't move up and down like it's supposed to (so sometimes if your unlucky the valve will slap the piston and do a bit of damage)
Roller rocker kits are purely mechanical so they can be set up to avoid valve float a little easier than hydraulic lifters.
Hi Erfinder!
I got Titanium valves for the 2L turbo engin. My engineer friend who is doing the rebuilt with me got them for me. I curently stoped the engin rebuilt due to the fact i'm finishing my body and interior right now. I'll wait for spring to put the engin in. Keep us posted about your progression I found it realy usefull wile doing similar things
Mat
I got Titanium valves for the 2L turbo engin. My engineer friend who is doing the rebuilt with me got them for me. I curently stoped the engin rebuilt due to the fact i'm finishing my body and interior right now. I'll wait for spring to put the engin in. Keep us posted about your progression I found it realy usefull wile doing similar things
Mat
- PrecisionBoost
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- PrecisionBoost
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Goldenboy, I don't suppose that you have any dimensions or weights for those valves??
The Titanium should be very light but you never know.
I was also on the trail of some light weight Titanium or Aluminum performance con rods but they are extreemly expensive.
I will keep looking for a good alternative as the connecting rods seem to be the weakest part of the engine.
The Titanium should be very light but you never know.
I was also on the trail of some light weight Titanium or Aluminum performance con rods but they are extreemly expensive.
I will keep looking for a good alternative as the connecting rods seem to be the weakest part of the engine.
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- PrecisionBoost
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Yes, the best is the Cosworth head off the C20LET but the C20XE and T20SED will work as well.
I would imagine that you would need custom pistons for the C20XE and T20SED since they are high compression pistons.
I can't remember off hand but I think the C20LET pistons are dished 8.5:1 compression pistons versus the 8:1 stock pistons in the C20E
You can get the C20LET head from Europe or the UK and someone also said the C20LET could be found in South America (can't remember where)
Given it would appear that the 16V modifcation allows for 25% more horsepower (thanks to the Coscast racing head) it might be worth looking into.
I would imagine that you would need custom pistons for the C20XE and T20SED since they are high compression pistons.
I can't remember off hand but I think the C20LET pistons are dished 8.5:1 compression pistons versus the 8:1 stock pistons in the C20E
You can get the C20LET head from Europe or the UK and someone also said the C20LET could be found in South America (can't remember where)
Given it would appear that the 16V modifcation allows for 25% more horsepower (thanks to the Coscast racing head) it might be worth looking into.
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