lanos head removal
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lanos head removal
I am looking for a guide on how to remove the head
in my 2001 Lanos. I am having problems on the left
side of the motor (power steering pump and the rest
of that funky bunch). Thanks
in my 2001 Lanos. I am having problems on the left
side of the motor (power steering pump and the rest
of that funky bunch). Thanks
2001 1.6 Lanos, AT
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- moron
- Posts: 4493
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:18 am
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4215
look on the website i list there. it takes a little sniffing around to find what you're looking for, but to the left (after you get into the manual) there is a menu that has the different components. find engine and then cylinder head removal is in there.
look on the website i list there. it takes a little sniffing around to find what you're looking for, but to the left (after you get into the manual) there is a menu that has the different components. find engine and then cylinder head removal is in there.
aside of the head removal... you don't need to remove the head if your problem is in the power steering pump.
i got no real experiance with had removal but basicly you will remove:
drain coolant
coolant hose from head to radiator
injector sockets
ignition coil socket
IAC and TPS sockets
temp sensors sockets
IAT sensor socket
rubber hose from air box to TB
TB coolant hoses
MAP sensor vacuum line
booster vaccum line
A/C belt
alternator belt
alternator (probably)
timing belt
fuel line from fuel rail
return fuel line from FPR
spark plug wires
ignition coil
exhaust manifold bolts that connect it to the down pipe
cam cover
after doing all that just remove the head bolts and the head will come off with the intake and exhaust manifolds... the head is made of two parts (lifters and valves section)
again i am following the logic here so i might have missed something.
MMamdouh
i got no real experiance with had removal but basicly you will remove:
drain coolant
coolant hose from head to radiator
injector sockets
ignition coil socket
IAC and TPS sockets
temp sensors sockets
IAT sensor socket
rubber hose from air box to TB
TB coolant hoses
MAP sensor vacuum line
booster vaccum line
A/C belt
alternator belt
alternator (probably)
timing belt
fuel line from fuel rail
return fuel line from FPR
spark plug wires
ignition coil
exhaust manifold bolts that connect it to the down pipe
cam cover
after doing all that just remove the head bolts and the head will come off with the intake and exhaust manifolds... the head is made of two parts (lifters and valves section)
again i am following the logic here so i might have missed something.
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
-
- moron
- Posts: 4493
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:18 am
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
couldn't agree more.lanos2001 wrote:if the timing belt snapped i can guaruntee that you have bent valves. i think the only way you wouldn't is if it broke off while the engine was off and you didn't try to start it up. its really the question of how many valves are bent now.
nick
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
don't depend on just looks... turn the head upsidedown then fill the valve compartment with fuel and see if the valves leak.
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Also inspect the top of the cylinder heads for fractures!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had the timing belt go in my car, under warrenty, dealership replaced all valves, guides, etc... picked car up, drove 10 miles and BANG!!!!!!!!!!!! A cylinder head had hair line fracture, put hole through the side of the block when it finally went. There was about 1/3 of the piston and about 2" of connecting rod left when the dealership took the motor apart again, still under warrenty. THANK GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When in doubt, FLOOR it!!!
I finished fixing my car today. I ended up replacing 2 exhaust
valves. The good news is the engine seems to be running fine,
the bad and the ugly news is that now the water pump is leaking.
After adjusting the timing belt I tightened those little water pump
bolts well, so either something happened to it when I was adjusting
the belt or or it failed on its own. Any ideas?
valves. The good news is the engine seems to be running fine,
the bad and the ugly news is that now the water pump is leaking.
After adjusting the timing belt I tightened those little water pump
bolts well, so either something happened to it when I was adjusting
the belt or or it failed on its own. Any ideas?
2001 1.6 Lanos, AT
how many miles you got on the pump? if it is over 50,000 then i would recommend that you replace it... if not then try silicon to seal the leak... i still recommend a new pump though.
MMamdouh
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267