how-to?!?!

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 9:46 pm

What happened to the how-to bleed the brakes? Im almost postitive there was one. If there isnt someone mind tell me exactly the easyiest way to bleed my brakes? I need to start doing this before/after ever race.

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:05 pm

bump.. i uh really need to know how to bleed my brakes!

I still have a good amount of brake pads left yet i can completly put the brake pedal to the floor with locking up even on a uneven road... almost couldnt even stop for a red light.. and i am gonna be on the track this weekend.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:48 pm

if you are able to lock the brakes then i doubt yuo got air in your braking system... also it is much easyer to lock the brakes on an uneven road due to the grip change that the tires face in that case.

anyways, this is not a decent how to but rather a fast remedy to your problem

1- lift and jack the car at the far most wheel from the brakes master cylender.
2- remove wheel
3- put one end of a clear plastic pipe on top of the bleed valve and the other end in a contaner.
5- let a friend pump the brakes pedal several times.
6- let your friend push and hold the brake pedal.
7- open the bleed valve, the brakes fluid rushs out into the contaner through the clear pipe.
8- when the fluid stops rushing out secure the valve (the fluid will rush out for a slip second).
9- notice the brakes fluid left in the pipe, if their are any air bubbles in it then repeat steps 5, 6, & 7 till their is no more air bubbles.
10- when you are done with this wheel, put it back then repeat the whole steps at the next farther wheel from the master cylender.
11- when all 4 wheels are bled, refill brakes fluid if needed.

i would recommend a brakes fluid flush and the use of DOT4 fluid... it has much higher boiling point than DOT3 and it will be better for you during racing.

MMamdouh

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:05 pm

thanks!

Yeah ive been wanting to get it flushed.. but before long im gonna do ALOT of work on the brakes includign stainless steal likes and all that funnn stuff

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:51 pm

mmamdouh wrote:
i would recommend a brakes fluid flush and the use of DOT4 fluid... it has much higher boiling point than DOT3 and it will be better for you during racing.

MMamdouh

Ive been researching brake fluid alot.. unfortunitly the shops near me can only do DOT3...

But sometimes DOT has a higher boiling point than DOT4 anyways. Plus DOT4 needs to be replaced more often, especialy with racing cause it gets water in it easyier which drops the boiling point by about 1/3

Ideally DOT5.1 would be best (super DOT4) but i doubt any shop even has the stuff. Dry boiling point of that is 509 (at the least) compared to dot 4 which is 446 and dot3 is 401.

Are the tools needed for a brake fluid flush expensive?

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:57 pm

umm dont you just drain it all out and put new in... thats all i ever do

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:04 pm

kinkyllama wrote:Plus DOT4 needs to be replaced more often, especialy with racing cause it gets water in it easyier which drops the boiling point by about 1/3

i don't know where you got this information but according to this graph it seems that the DOT4 (and DOT5) got better risistance to beeing saturated by humidity - the DOT4 line is more flat that the DOT3 and it has way higher boiling point than DOT3 so i see it as a major upgrade if i may call it so.

i guess the price difference between DOT4 and DOT5 doesn't justfy the performace difference at all so i say the best deal is to use DOT4.

Are the tools needed for a brake fluid flush expensive?

Tools?? i don't think you will be needing more than a wrench (or whatever that thing is called) to open/close the bleed valve and a jack to lift the car... the clear pipe and can thing is just an extra tool, some people depend on the sound of the squerted brakes fluid from the bleed valve to decide whether it has air in it or not.

MMamdouh

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:02 pm

"Are DOT 4 fluids better than DOT 3 fluids? Not always. Remember, the boiling points listed are minimums and there are DOT 3 fluids out there with higher boiling points than some DOT 4 fluids. The real differentiating factor should be that if you run a DOT 4 fluid you really should change the fluid more often than if you use a DOT 3, if for no other reason than the rapid fall off in boiling point with time."

Plus i cant even go DOT4.. the shops around here only have DOT3

Dot5 cant be used in a stock car. Dot 4 is generally better than DOT3 but needs to be replaced much more often when racing. DOT 5.1 would be best.. but is very hard to find and even harder to put for some reason (cant remember).

Then how do you flush out the old fluid? I didnt read up on it much but i remember reading stuff about pressure flushing system or something or another.

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:01 pm

I actually have a synthetic mix of DOT 3 and DOT 4 and it says that it outperforms both in boiling point and breakdown and foaming. Just get Vavloline Synpower (I think) and you should be OK.

As for changing it, don't simply let it all drain out. I did this and got really poor braking power after. I'm still suffering the effects of it, but it is really too damn hot to fix.