What do you have for a sound system????

[PrecisionBoost]

I personally have next to nothing in the car at the moment.... I'm waiting until after I get the 2.0L turbo swapped into the Lanos so I can get it on the track to see what kind of 1/4 mile times I can get.

After that I figure the car is going to get a major stereo upgrade....and about 500lbs of gear

I used to compete in amature events ( Never did the IASCA thing.... my cars were never "show quality" )

My stereo system is worth roughly 3 times the value of the car

Max RMS power is around 2000RMS and there won't be a speaker over 10" in diameter ( I love 8" woofers.... I have 8 JL Audio 8W1-8 , 2 Alpine 6081 ) and I also have a couple of 10" Alpine Type R that will play center stage.

I have Sony deck which has pre-proccesor outputs that lead into my Sony graphic equalizer/processor/surround unit....which then feeds back to my deck as well as some of my crossover channels

I have 2 Active crossovers with a total of 12 sets of outputs (24 in total )

In front have 6" Orion Midbass, Alpine 5 1/4" mids, Sony 3" midhighs and Collins mylar tweeters.

The rear has Alpine 1.5" Titanium tweeters, two 8" acting as midbass and I think I'm going to get some 5" mids sometime next year.

I didn't have a center speaker before but I think I will have to go all out and do up something this time. (helps with the surround effects)

My amps are Alpine and Sansui (not the crap we have here..... these are proaudio amps from Japan....my big amp 2 X 300Wrms retailed for about $2500 and it's capable of 1200Wrms of clean power)

I have all the usual wiring/gold connectors/fuses, a couple of 1 farrad Capacitors.

Most of my stuff is dated ( 10 yrs old ) but it still kicks serious butt.

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

First of all, I upgraded the under hood electrical system so I do not need a capacitor. Capacitors are only good for about 1/100 of a second burst of amperage, then they draw more power from the electrical system to rechrage. They can have a negative impact on a stereo system's sound quality.

I have installed 4ga cable from the alternator + to the battery + with soldered on gold ring terminals. 4ga cable from the battery - to the body and then 4ga from the body to the engine block. Again, with soldered on gold ring terminals.

1/0 power cable from the gell battery to a digital voltage display ANL fuse block.

1/0 power cable from the fuse block to the back of the car where it connects to a gold distrobution block.

4ga power cable from the distrobution block to the amplifiers.

Front stage amp is a Lanzar Vibe 240 which produced a clean 200 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms.

Sub amp is a Lanzar Vibe 1200D monoblock which produces a clean 1250 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohm.

The car has been completely stripped out of the interior and 3 layers of sound deadening has been installed.

The front speakers are CDT CL-61 components. 6 1/2" mids mounted in the stock 4" speaker location in the doors with custom mouting rings.
1" silk dome tweeters mounted on the dash at the bottom of the windshield pillars. The crossovers are located inside the removable panel on the ends of the dash that are accessable when the car doors are open.

The subwoofer is an Adire Audio Brahma 15" Mark II. It has one of the longest throws of any speaker available on the market, but with its motor structure, it keeps a completely flat BL throughout it's movement. Capable of handling over 1600 watts RMS and a peak of 4800 watts.
The sub box, after the displacement of the sub, internal bracing and the port, has 5.2 cubic feet internal air volume. The port is tuned to 24Hz so it can ge VERY low and stay very clean with no distortion.

The head unit is an Eclipse 3413. I wanted an exceedingly clean signal, but I also wanted MP3 capability. If I did not want to be able to play MP3s, I would have gotten the Nakamichi NAK500.

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[daewooluvr]

I'm going all audiobahn. I do not have my complete system but I'm working on it.
Right now I have a set of Audiobahns flagship 3 way components (6.5" woofer, 4" midrange, 1" tweeter) being powered by their impressive intake amp rated at 200w x 2 RMS stereo (800w x 1 RMS mono).



Next month I'm getting another set of 6.5" components and the same amp to run them.

As far as the wiring goes, I'm going with all Stinger.




Also getting Audiobahn Battery terminals, inline fuse, and a fused distribution block.





To make sure I have all the power I need I got an SVR Audio deep cell battery as a second battery with Stinger Isolator.




Look for all this to be installed by end of January.

As for subs, I like the Audiobahn Alum10Qs.



I'm toying with the idea of a 3 sub system and running them off the same intake amp at 800w x 1 RMS mono since these subs are 6ohm DVC.


look for this coming next winter.

[mocpac]

Well I'm star my system w\ a jvc cd/cass combo. and for the sound I will use all audiopipe, I just have 4, 6.5 " 300w 3way speakers. And I will put 2, 12" sub. And that will be all

[darkspeed415]

I have Boston 4" and 4x6"
JVC Kamelon head unit
Rockford wiring
2 Audiosonik 10's

[PrecisionBoost]

First of all, I upgraded the under hood electrical system so I do not need a capacitor. Capacitors are only good for about 1/100 of a second burst of amperage, then they draw more power from the electrical system to rechrage. They can have a negative impact on a stereo system's sound quality.

Sounds like a nice tight system although I don't agree with you on the capacitors.

When you say that you upgraded the underhood electrical were you refering primarily to the Optima battery?

I was going to pick one up when I put the system together... I've heard wonder stories about spiral cell technology as far as internal resistance (ability to convert or absorb electricity and turn it into chemical energy)

Even Spiral cell batteries can't supply "instant" current since they use a chemical process.

Only a Capacitive network can provide several hundred amps of nearly instant transient spike absorbtion. ( positive inductive spikes or negative spikes from power amp draw)

I've never read anything bad about capacitive networks in auto sound.... but I haven't been in the scene for quite a while.

Do you have any links to sites which go into detail about the negative effects of adding capacitance?? ( the more technical the better)

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

First of all, I upgraded the under hood electrical system so I do not need a capacitor. Capacitors are only good for about 1/100 of a second burst of amperage, then they draw more power from the electrical system to rechrage. They can have a negative impact on a stereo system's sound quality.

Sounds like a nice tight system although I don't agree with you on the capacitors.

When you say that you upgraded the underhood electrical were you refering primarily to the Optima battery?

No.

Actually, I made that system picture before I knew about the SVR batteries, which I am going to get. I never bought the Optima and I need to change the diagram.

My electrical upgrades are making the power & grounds under the hood a much larger gauge wire, 4ga, replacing the thin stock wiring that was there.

Here are all the photos with full descriptions.

http://members.cox.net/thegreatandpower ... index.html

I will get links to the details on the use of capacitors in car audio systems and why they aren't such such a good idea. They end up being a small bandaid on a bleeding artery of the larger deficiency in the electrical system as a whole.
Yes, they can help with short term headlight dimming, but they do not fix the problem that is causing it.
Upgrading the electrical system: wiring, alternator & battery/batteries, makes the use of capacitors unnecessary and able to compensate for a constant, large amperage draw. It also helps keep the voltage stable so you do not get voltage drops, which show up as lower SPL, dimming headlights and sometimes putting amps into protection from the voltage being too low.

[PrecisionBoost]

I put the capactiors in purely for powersupply ripple (such as the type you get off an alternator and various other AC voltage sources)

Light dimming is an indication of a bad power supply (alternator not up to the task of putting out enough current) and I would never use capacitors to try to fix it..... as you said it would be like putting on a bandaid on a huge gash.

I see where your going with this "capacitors are bad" thing..... you definitly don't want to add them into a system that allready has a problem supplying current (lights dimming) since the extra draw of the capacitor will actually make the problem worse in some cases.

I personally allways make sure that the alternator/cables/battery are up to required specifications before adding capacitance.

A good rule of thumb is to look at all the fuses on your amplifiers ( example 30A + 30A +20A + 50 A = 130A ) and then add another 50A on top to be safe. So in the above system your alternator must be able to source 180A of current. I posted the Lanos "generator" info earlier but it must have been lost in the server transfer in November.

I think the Lanos was good for 85A.... so you would need an aftermarket alternator upgrade to make a decent stereo system.

Ok....back to the capacitors.......Capacitors help out amplifiers by absorbing any reverse transients the amp might encounter.

Speakers are inductive so they induce current back into the amp as the coil is pulled back accross the magnet towards it's position of "rest"

Power into speaker - internal coil resistance - spider/surround resistance = power speaker pushes back into the amp when it comes back down from it's maximum excursion.

Most Amps are pretty good at blocking the inductive spikes but the capacitors accross the power supply help the amp by increasing the total power supply capactiance from say 100,000 uF to 2,100,000 uF

Capacitors only really draw as much as they put out minus some current loss from things like Dielectric absorption so they shouldn't hurt your system unless you have a problem in some other area (such as your alternator )

Here is a great site for everyone who is interested in capacitor information.... http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/

It might be a little complex if you don't know much about electronics but it gets into the details of how it works and what the drawbacks are.

[PrecisionBoost]

While we are on the subject.... cliff, have you found any aftermarket alternators that will work in the lanos?

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

While we are on the subject.... cliff, have you found any aftermarket alternators that will work in the lanos?

I sure have!
200 amp alt that drops into the stock location in the Lanos.
I'll be adding that to my car some time in the not-so-distant future.

I am at home now and the information is on my computer at work. I'll post it when I get there tonight.

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

I remembered wrong.
The quote I got back was for a 160 amp alternator, not 200 amps.
This is copied from the reply I received.

Application Replacement of 2002 Daewoo Lanos OE 80 amps

Our suggested solution to your power needs:
1. Replacement Alternator HO 160Amp Alternator Model #8280-160
Price includes our 1 year hassle free warranty.
Suggested Retail $620
Your Price $450*

Our alternator will directly replace the stock alternator, and interface directly to your car?s computer. No need for brackets or messing with the wire harness. The only change you will make is the output from the alternator to the battery. We recommend 4 gauge or larger.
2. Freight Federal Express Ground $15

Federal Express Overnight $45


HO alternators are custom built to work with your vehicle?s computer and existing brackets. Please anticipate a two week delivery time due to our current backlog of orders.

Contact me if you have any questions.
Jose Blanco
H.O. Alternators
1-866-HI-OUTPUT

High Output Alternators
3750 West River Drive
Davenport IA 52802
Phone: 563-323-3337
http://www.h-o-alternators.com
Sales@h-o-alternators.com