twin turbo idea
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- PrecisionBoost
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Ok.....here is the "rough" flow numbers for the 1.6L
14 lbs/min @ 4psi => pressure ratio = 1.27
15.4 lbs/min @6psi => pressure ratio = 1.41
16.8 lbs/min @8 psi => pressure ratio = 1.54
18.2 lbs/min @10psi => pressure ratio = 1.68
Given you are using two turbos you should route cylinders 1 & 4 into one turbo and 2 & 3 into the other to maximize pulse separation.
Since you are using two turbos you take all the flow numbers in lbs/min and divide them by two
So...
4psi = 7 lbs/min @ 1.27
6psi = 7.7 lbs/min @ 1.41
8psi = 8.4 lbs/min @ 1.54
10psi = 9.1 lbs/min @ 1.68
Next we plot it on the compressor map....
Here is the current info for a Garret GT12 turbo ...
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... 068__1.htm
The first point isn't even on the map... it's too low
The second point (6psi)
just makes it on and shows an efficency around 65%
The third point (8psi) gets closer to the heart of the map at around 72%
The fourth point (10psi) is the closest but it's still below the ideal portion of the map
I would say this setup will work but certainly not as well as a single GT25.
If you plot 6psi on the GT25 you will find it dead center in the middle of the center of the "sweet spot"
Don't get me wrong.... it should spool quickly and produce decent amounts of boost but your planned boost levels seem a little low.
If you ran 8psi the turbo would start to be happy.... even bellow the bottom of the sweet spot of the GT12 compressor map it still has an efficency that is fairly close to that of the GT25 with all four cylinders.
I have to think that this GT12 was meant for much higher boost levels for motorcycles.... it would be perfect for running 14psi to 18psi of boost on a 1000CC motorcycle engine.
So all in all it should work if you set it up correctly.... and I personally would recomend that you stay away from the remote turbo idea..... the cost of the tubing would be fairly expensive and you should have lots of room with these tiny guys.
14 lbs/min @ 4psi => pressure ratio = 1.27
15.4 lbs/min @6psi => pressure ratio = 1.41
16.8 lbs/min @8 psi => pressure ratio = 1.54
18.2 lbs/min @10psi => pressure ratio = 1.68
Given you are using two turbos you should route cylinders 1 & 4 into one turbo and 2 & 3 into the other to maximize pulse separation.
Since you are using two turbos you take all the flow numbers in lbs/min and divide them by two
So...
4psi = 7 lbs/min @ 1.27
6psi = 7.7 lbs/min @ 1.41
8psi = 8.4 lbs/min @ 1.54
10psi = 9.1 lbs/min @ 1.68
Next we plot it on the compressor map....
Here is the current info for a Garret GT12 turbo ...
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... 068__1.htm
The first point isn't even on the map... it's too low
The second point (6psi)
just makes it on and shows an efficency around 65%
The third point (8psi) gets closer to the heart of the map at around 72%
The fourth point (10psi) is the closest but it's still below the ideal portion of the map
I would say this setup will work but certainly not as well as a single GT25.
If you plot 6psi on the GT25 you will find it dead center in the middle of the center of the "sweet spot"
Don't get me wrong.... it should spool quickly and produce decent amounts of boost but your planned boost levels seem a little low.
If you ran 8psi the turbo would start to be happy.... even bellow the bottom of the sweet spot of the GT12 compressor map it still has an efficency that is fairly close to that of the GT25 with all four cylinders.
I have to think that this GT12 was meant for much higher boost levels for motorcycles.... it would be perfect for running 14psi to 18psi of boost on a 1000CC motorcycle engine.
So all in all it should work if you set it up correctly.... and I personally would recomend that you stay away from the remote turbo idea..... the cost of the tubing would be fairly expensive and you should have lots of room with these tiny guys.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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Just Information
This came from ClubTuscani(Hyundai's tiburon owners club)
And this car is made of twin turbo(turbines are from Kia's Cedona geunine IHI turbine. Smaller than T3) which is running 14.7 psi.
As you can see on the dyno the first 197ps means of hybrid turbo or asrada turbo system. Which sticks one turbine on to first and forth cylinders only.
And 293ps comes from twin turbo.
Pretty tough the turbine on the left sticks on to 1st and 4th cylinders and the turbine on the right sticks on to 2nd and 3rd cylinders
And this car is made of twin turbo(turbines are from Kia's Cedona geunine IHI turbine. Smaller than T3) which is running 14.7 psi.
As you can see on the dyno the first 197ps means of hybrid turbo or asrada turbo system. Which sticks one turbine on to first and forth cylinders only.
And 293ps comes from twin turbo.
Pretty tough the turbine on the left sticks on to 1st and 4th cylinders and the turbine on the right sticks on to 2nd and 3rd cylinders
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- moron
- Posts: 4493
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- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
yay
that's roughly 288hp and 240lb ft of torque... w00t!
***EDIT***
those torque numbers are great... they just aren't in a good spot on the rpm band... thus we see the need for anti-lag with the twins when it comes to a 4 cylinder :twisted:
but that would be freaking sweet to downshift and squeal the tires on the highway :lmao:
that's roughly 288hp and 240lb ft of torque... w00t!
***EDIT***
those torque numbers are great... they just aren't in a good spot on the rpm band... thus we see the need for anti-lag with the twins when it comes to a 4 cylinder :twisted:
but that would be freaking sweet to downshift and squeal the tires on the highway :lmao:
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- moron
- Posts: 4493
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:18 am
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
Information
Sorry I can't find one
And the dyno on the picture is the only one. So there might be no Air-fuel ratio reading.
And the dyno on the picture is the only one. So there might be no Air-fuel ratio reading.
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- moron
- Posts: 4493
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:18 am
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
Remove the condenser, move the radiator foreward, loose the oem fan, use a front mount fan, put a cowl scoop on that comes right to the front of the hood, turn the headers up and mount those dinky things above the top of the radiator run the downpies strait down and place your inter cooler in the back of the cowl or skip the intercooler all together in favor of a methanol/water injector and run your air pipes right over the motor to a y pipe elbowed into the TB
04 Suzuki Forenza 2.0 with dreams of 325 hp per liter.
- TxDAEWOOxT
- Expert
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- Location: Houston Tx.
i work in refrigeration and i weld in all the copper lines.i had the idea of running the a/c piping through a intercooler to keep it cool constantly. the nos works well but it costs money to fill bottles and it doesnt work all the time.kinkyllama wrote:You talking about where it sprays infront of the intercooler (or above it)Audacityracing wrote: nitrous cooled intercooler
Those systems are very good and realiable
i would like to build a intercooler with normal inlet and outlet for air and little ports for you a/c system to hook up to. the a/c compressor would be running all the time. i geuss you could put a thermostat on the intercooler to cut the compressor in and out.
it will work.
2001 Lanos 1.6
--1.25 Eibach Pro kit
--2 1/4 Pro 1 catback
--custom intake (short ram)
--port and polished head
--port and polished TB
--port and polished intake manifold
--Kenwood head
--Pioneer noise
http://www.myspace.com/txhtownxt
--1.25 Eibach Pro kit
--2 1/4 Pro 1 catback
--custom intake (short ram)
--port and polished head
--port and polished TB
--port and polished intake manifold
--Kenwood head
--Pioneer noise
http://www.myspace.com/txhtownxt