Intimidator's 2.2L turbo
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Intimidator's 2.2L turbo
It's Nubira 2.2L(The owner swapped the engine).
The blue graph was first result(it had welding problem).
But after done with the problems the red graph came up as a result .
- Brian5475E
- Expert
- Posts: 753
- Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 2:49 am
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio USA
- Contact:
-
- moron
- Posts: 4493
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:18 am
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee
- Contact:
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Well.... technically 45.07 kg-m works out to be 326 lb-ft of torque
And since the power is in PS you drop the value by 1.37%
So 278.39 PS is equal to 274.58 horsepower
I have to say that although the results are very impressive I'm a little concerned about the air fuel ratio.... it needs some fine tuning.
The graph looks great from 4200RPM to 5200RPM but you need to adjust the lower RPM .... it's a little too lean prior to 3500RPM
I'm assuming that is where the boost kicks in but still.... I would try to pull that back into the 12:1 range from 2000RPM to 3500RPM
Your dropping off the chart in the top end but I'd rather be stinking rich and have a healthy engine than worry about detonation.
Are you running a programable fuel system or is it just a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator??
Are you using a stock engine??
How many PSI are you running??
I hope you've replaced the connecting rod bolts with something stronger.... they are the weak point on this engine.
I wish you good luck and hope your engine stays healthy.
And since the power is in PS you drop the value by 1.37%
So 278.39 PS is equal to 274.58 horsepower
I have to say that although the results are very impressive I'm a little concerned about the air fuel ratio.... it needs some fine tuning.
The graph looks great from 4200RPM to 5200RPM but you need to adjust the lower RPM .... it's a little too lean prior to 3500RPM
I'm assuming that is where the boost kicks in but still.... I would try to pull that back into the 12:1 range from 2000RPM to 3500RPM
Your dropping off the chart in the top end but I'd rather be stinking rich and have a healthy engine than worry about detonation.
Are you running a programable fuel system or is it just a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator??
Are you using a stock engine??
How many PSI are you running??
I hope you've replaced the connecting rod bolts with something stronger.... they are the weak point on this engine.
I wish you good luck and hope your engine stays healthy.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Answer to the question
1. Q: Are you running a programable fuel system or is it just a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator??
A: We have converted from stock ECM's made by Delphi to SAM2000 made by Siemens. Because SAM2000 is much easier to handle with(It's becuase of Hyundai. There are many people who install the turbo for Hyundai's tiburon and coupe seires. And those mobiles use SAM2000)
2. Q: Are you using a stock engine??
A: Yes, it's stock 2.2L engine. But we lowered the compression ratio from 9.6:1 to about 8:1. That's all modification that we've made.
3. Q: How many PSI are you running??
A: 14.5 psi(1 BAR) We think 21.7 psi would be okay, too. But because of the durability of the engine and the suck Korean fuels. We are just using 14.5 PSI.(To use 21.7 psi we have to use "luxury" fuels which is not that luxury and costs 1.75$/litre. )
4. A: About the air-fuel ratio problem, it's okay. Because of the size of turbine. It starts to boost at 3,400 RPM. So it doesn't matter much
A: We have converted from stock ECM's made by Delphi to SAM2000 made by Siemens. Because SAM2000 is much easier to handle with(It's becuase of Hyundai. There are many people who install the turbo for Hyundai's tiburon and coupe seires. And those mobiles use SAM2000)
2. Q: Are you using a stock engine??
A: Yes, it's stock 2.2L engine. But we lowered the compression ratio from 9.6:1 to about 8:1. That's all modification that we've made.
3. Q: How many PSI are you running??
A: 14.5 psi(1 BAR) We think 21.7 psi would be okay, too. But because of the durability of the engine and the suck Korean fuels. We are just using 14.5 PSI.(To use 21.7 psi we have to use "luxury" fuels which is not that luxury and costs 1.75$/litre. )
4. A: About the air-fuel ratio problem, it's okay. Because of the size of turbine. It starts to boost at 3,400 RPM. So it doesn't matter much
-
- Junior
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:21 pm
- Location: Miami Fl
Yeah but remember too rich is just as bad as too lean, becuase u can have cylnder wash which will wash the oil of the cylinder walls and mess up the rings. TOo lean is where u will make mopre power, but either too lean or too rich and u can say good bye to the engineI'd rather be stinking rich and have a healthy engine than worry about detonation.
2.0 dohc turbo
Garret T3 turbo
Custom Intercooler
Custom Everything
Garret T3 turbo
Custom Intercooler
Custom Everything
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
They are using the same Dynojet system we use at APEX so I'm very familiar with tuning turbo cars on that system.
I'm fairly sure that it isn't "too rich" because it doesn't slam into the bottom of the scale at a sharp angle.
If I were to guess I would say that it's just a tiny bit under 10:1 at the top end.
If it were too rich the graph would have spikes like those at 6500RPM but they would be two or three times the height.
Some cars don't mind being rich.... the Dodge SRT-4 slams into the 10:1 line at about 3500RPM and it never comes back.
It does this stock and even with the Stage 1 or Stage 2 upgrades it goes off the chart.
My concern about the lean conditions before spooling is based around "real world" driving with partial throttle.
I'd suggest that you take it up to about 4500 RPM with partial throttle and then put the acclerator pedal to the ground to make sure that you don't get a lean spike as the turbo spools up
I must say that those are some really decent numbers for 14.5psi and 8:1 compression... I would have expected them closer to 250whp
I plan to push mine up into the 20psi range.... but I'm using the stronger 2.0L turbo (C20LET) connecting rods with ARP rod bolts and they have been deburred,polished and are about to go out to be shotpeened.
The rod bolts usually don't take the kind of power your making for very long.... swaping the ARP rod bolts only takes an hour or so and they a really cheap upgrade.
Again.... I wish you luck and hope everything goes well.... we have lots of 2.0L turbos but not very many 2.2L turbos.... the cranks and connecting rods have significant differences in internal dimension so my hope is that the 2.2L setup will be more reliable under boost.
Once my 2.2L turbo engine projects get's moving I imagine that I will be breaking things left right and center so you will have dyno proven numbers as to where the limits are for each part ( I might blow up two or three engines along the way but it will be valuble R&D )
I'm fairly sure that it isn't "too rich" because it doesn't slam into the bottom of the scale at a sharp angle.
If I were to guess I would say that it's just a tiny bit under 10:1 at the top end.
If it were too rich the graph would have spikes like those at 6500RPM but they would be two or three times the height.
Some cars don't mind being rich.... the Dodge SRT-4 slams into the 10:1 line at about 3500RPM and it never comes back.
It does this stock and even with the Stage 1 or Stage 2 upgrades it goes off the chart.
My concern about the lean conditions before spooling is based around "real world" driving with partial throttle.
I'd suggest that you take it up to about 4500 RPM with partial throttle and then put the acclerator pedal to the ground to make sure that you don't get a lean spike as the turbo spools up
I must say that those are some really decent numbers for 14.5psi and 8:1 compression... I would have expected them closer to 250whp
I plan to push mine up into the 20psi range.... but I'm using the stronger 2.0L turbo (C20LET) connecting rods with ARP rod bolts and they have been deburred,polished and are about to go out to be shotpeened.
The rod bolts usually don't take the kind of power your making for very long.... swaping the ARP rod bolts only takes an hour or so and they a really cheap upgrade.
Again.... I wish you luck and hope everything goes well.... we have lots of 2.0L turbos but not very many 2.2L turbos.... the cranks and connecting rods have significant differences in internal dimension so my hope is that the 2.2L setup will be more reliable under boost.
Once my 2.2L turbo engine projects get's moving I imagine that I will be breaking things left right and center so you will have dyno proven numbers as to where the limits are for each part ( I might blow up two or three engines along the way but it will be valuble R&D )
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Intimidator
Side kit is made by us.