Lanos - Slow Startup

N/A tech, Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat backs, Exhaust...etc

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BosnianLanos
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Lanos - Slow Startup

Post by BosnianLanos »

I have a little problem, I don't think it is anything serious, but I'd like to solve it before it gets any more serious.

Lately, my Lanos takes a little longer to start up when the ignition is turned to "ON". It is not a lot of time, and it does always start up, but when you have owned a car for 7 years and turned it on daily, you do tend to notice something is a bit off. I have looked in the manual but they don't mention anything concrete.

Basically:

- 2 Week Old Battery
- 5 Month Old Coil
- 5 Month Old Spark Plug Wires
- 5 Month Old Plugs
- New Battery Terminal Clamps
- New Ground Wires
- Most electrical sensors are cleaned and greased with dialectric grease.

I'm worried it may be the starter or the alternator or something more serious. I just want to get it before it gets any worse.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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GsiTurbo
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Post by GsiTurbo »

Check the vacuum hoses for leaks. Replace as required. If there is a small leak, it will take longer for vacuum to be acknowledged by the MAP, which may cause longer start.
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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

you got to know for sure if it is a starter problem or an engine problem so first thing to do is notice the speed and sound of the starter when it is working... if the speed and sound are normal then it is something with your engine. if the speed and/or sound are different then you might need new bushings for the starter motor or maybe a whole new one.

what other symptoms associated with the late starts? any sputter at first turns? any smoak from the exhaust? any thing unususal at all??

bear in mind that my injectors problems started out like this... a bit late start ups and it gradually started to be worse and worse so make sure it is not the injectors... when the engine is turned on; turn it off for a couple of seconds then strart it right again... if it starts with no delays then this could be related to injectors.

keep us posted.

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BosnianLanos
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Post by BosnianLanos »

I was also thinking of possible vacuum leaks because a few weeks ago I noticed a bit of loss of power which was fixed by blocking the EGR. I overall don't think it is the starter because when I shorted my battery it had enough voltage to spin the starter and I could hear it whirring like new.

The car doesn't sputter or have any problems with loss of power now, it is just a tiny (probabally unnoticeable thing to others) delay in start up.

I guess I'll buy a bulk look of vacuum hoses and see if it improves.
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Post by MMamdouh »

i actually started my engine and drove the car without the vacuum line controlling the EGR and it started right up and felt normal during driving so i am not sure about the vacuum line issue.

maybe your IAC is dirty or so... when was the last time you cleaned it?

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BosnianLanos
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Post by BosnianLanos »

All sensors in the intake have been cleaned within the last 2 or 3 weeks.

I don't think my EGR is vacuum driven. It is a simple metal EGR vavle with an electronic connection on top. I don't think simple vacuum would be good enough to regulate the EGR, at least on the 1.6L I believe it is fully electronic.

I am getting new vacuum hoses tomorrow, a new antifreeze hose, new synthetic steering fluid, new antifreeze w/RedLine, topping off with Valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid from my ATF flush a few weeks back, changing the engine oil and filter, taking out the spark plugs and cleaning them, greasing the spark wires, and cleaning all the intake sensors again. I will see if anything changes. It is time for the yearly Daewoo super extra care.

Next week...Suspension!
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Post by AcingTeam »

You're getting suspension? What kind? ;)
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Post by lanos rider »

i think it is maybe the O2 sensor
chick it and reMAP ...... or maybe cheap fuel .....
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Post by MMamdouh »

my EGR is vacuum operated... seems to be an old setup as the newer cars got this sort electronic controled EGR valve.

thats a very good service you are doing to your car, i would throw in a new air and fuel fiters or at least a cleanup for the ones currently on the car then an ECU reset.

what exactly do you mean by "greasing the spark wires"? are you gonna put greas on the wires? won't that hurt the rubber on the wires? what are the benefits of doing so?

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Post by tango »

Of the three elements required for combustion (fuel, air, spark) I tend to suspect fuel and spark first. Especially spark. Your plugs/plug wires could be weak. This has happened to me a few times as well. Another distinct posibility is timing. If the timing is out slightly then you could have some issues similar to the one you described. With my older distributor-type ignition I would adjust the spark timing by rotating the distributor. I will be the first to admit I know little about adjusting spark timing on the dizzy cars, however. Check the spark timing with a timing light and see if it's within spec. Dirty fuel injectors, clogged fuel filter, as well as bad gas can cause problems as well.
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BosnianLanos
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Post by BosnianLanos »

@ Acing: I don't think I'm going to go with aftermarket suspension on my car because with 190K miles it isn't worth it, no matter how well it runs. I am basically getting alignment/rotation/balancing. I am actually fairly happy with my stock suspension cause it sits lower than stock and is fairly stiff with all the mileage.

@ mmamdouh: Air filter has maybe 17K kilometers on it and fuel filter has almost 26K kilometers, so you are right, it may be time for a change. And by greasing the wires, I don't actually grease the wires themselves, just the boots. I use dialectric grease on the boots to improve spark energy marginally and eventually when I have to remove them, the grease makes it easier. It also displaces water, humidity, and dirt should it get in the spark holes, which helps in rainy, humid, and sandy Florida.

@ tango: I think my plugs could possibly be weak/dirty but I doubt my wires are bad as they are new Magnecors and I just installed a new ignition coil. You are probabally right about the timing as I haven't changed my belt for 50K miles and it is becoming the right time for a belt change/timing adjustment. I will probabally change the fuel filter today cause it has 15K miles on it, but I doubt my gas is crappy cause I'm using Exxon and I have always trusted their gas.

Thanks all for comments, and keep 'em coming, I will report back with any changes or results.
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Post by BosnianLanos »

Well, it has been getting a little worse.

I was thinking about the alternator and I hooked it up to my Voltmeter to check.

When the car is cranked, voltage drops and then picks up to about 13.8 volts and then slowly rises to 14 even and maybe a little over. I think this is a fairly low reading on an alternator. Could it just be a bad connection or the belt loose or something.

Or do I have to start ordering the $225 alternator?
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Post by Audacity Racing »

if i were you, i would take it to autozone and get it tested (free). they can tell you exactly what's wrong with it... they can tell you for sure what's wrong
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Post by MMamdouh »

i am not 100% sure but i guess 14 volts are about right... also a loose belt will be associated with a squealing sound especially on cold morning start ups... do you have that??

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Post by BosnianLanos »

I know about the squealing belts because my Lanos had that a few years back. I know people recommend 14-14.5 volts for an alternator, but what I find weird is that it starts at 13 and moves up to 14 and stops, on my Honda, it drops and goes up to 14.3 immediately.

Weird, but I really didn't need any more problems. Oh well, I guess Autozone it is tomorrow.
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