Anyone with 1.6 block and eye for detail
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- moron
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Anyone with 1.6 block and eye for detail
does anyone have an extra 1.6 block just laying around that they could steal some measurements for me? i'm doing all the cad/3d work for my twins and need some measurements for the exhaust.
LOOKING FOR
1. distance of bolt holes, on center
2. bolt hole drill size, and thread
3. geometry of bolts on block
4. geometry of flange
5. geometry of exhaust ports
6. distance between ports, on center
i realize that's kind of a hard thing for someone to do, but i'll paypal like 10 bucks to whoever does it for me. i can't do it cause my woo is my only car right now and i can't afford the time required to rip it all apart to do all that. thanks in advance!!!!
LOOKING FOR
1. distance of bolt holes, on center
2. bolt hole drill size, and thread
3. geometry of bolts on block
4. geometry of flange
5. geometry of exhaust ports
6. distance between ports, on center
i realize that's kind of a hard thing for someone to do, but i'll paypal like 10 bucks to whoever does it for me. i can't do it cause my woo is my only car right now and i can't afford the time required to rip it all apart to do all that. thanks in advance!!!!
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- Expert
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- moron
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- Expert
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- Brian5475E
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- moron
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- Expert
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Hey, I started doing the measurements tonight for you then all of a sudden it hit me. DUH!! Just get an exhaust manifold gasket and take all the measurements from that. It's exactly the same size as the head, actually a lil larger to allow for some porting and polishing of the ports.
It was quite difficult to hold up the measuring tape and take pics.
It was quite difficult to hold up the measuring tape and take pics.
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- moron
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- PrecisionBoost
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I don't know if you realize this but you can't make the holes "exactly perfect"
The holes MUST be larger than the studs to allow for expansion and contraction of the manifold flange.
If you do not take this into account you will shear off two or three bolts within a week.
What material are you making the flange and header out of??
I would suggest you go out right now and purchase the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell.... it has all the info you will need to make a good header/turbo manifold.......... it will be the best $40 you've ever spent.
Material selection is very important.... if you do it out of mild steel you can bet that it will crack, warp and leak inside of a year.
The holes MUST be larger than the studs to allow for expansion and contraction of the manifold flange.
If you do not take this into account you will shear off two or three bolts within a week.
What material are you making the flange and header out of??
I would suggest you go out right now and purchase the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell.... it has all the info you will need to make a good header/turbo manifold.......... it will be the best $40 you've ever spent.
Material selection is very important.... if you do it out of mild steel you can bet that it will crack, warp and leak inside of a year.
- PrecisionBoost
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- PrecisionBoost
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i'll say go 3/4" to 1" on the nubi type engines if your dip stick is on the right hand side and you turbo seats low and also if you are going to cut out sluts for the EGR(at most 1/4" deep). also, if for any reason, you turbo seats low enough to touch the hump that the oil dipstick come out off, do not grinde it down cause i learnt the hard way. you will leak oil.Erfinder@PrecisionBoost wrote:Oh ya.... make very sure that you use nice thick material for the flange to ensure that it doesn't warp.... I would suggest 1/2" to 3/4" thick.
Don't even think about using 1/4" plate.... it will warp when your header tubes are welded to the flange.... and you won't be able to fix it.
i'll also suggest going as close to log style as posible unless you are very good at fab. equal lenght header. there is just not enough space, speaking from point of view of the nubi. an egual lenght will seat the turbo quite low. also oil return is a factor. i personally am still contemplating either using a port on the block for oil return. when i opened my block, i noticed that the oil return might be seating quite low and the hose was all the way to the top( dont fully qoute me on this yet, i have to test it on my old pan though. just food for thought). also, i am VERY sceptical on the t20sed's CON-RODS. i dont think they can sustain 300whp. they will proberbly brake before 200-220whp(with no shotpeeing).
got drift?
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- moron
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the header flange is 5/8 chrome-moly... it's will hold up just fine.
the pipes are getting cnc mandrel bent and cnc cut with a cold saw.
i'll be tig welding the whole thing and then doing a media flow through the inside as well as a ceramic coating.
they will look mirrored on the inside
(not that you can see that)
i'm running the header with 1/2 and 3/4, all equal length tubing.
if it's successful, i might get some more made
:twisted:
the pipes are getting cnc mandrel bent and cnc cut with a cold saw.
i'll be tig welding the whole thing and then doing a media flow through the inside as well as a ceramic coating.
they will look mirrored on the inside

i'm running the header with 1/2 and 3/4, all equal length tubing.
if it's successful, i might get some more made
