i am not worring about hitting the redline .
and yes the cap will become stress but just the same as stock. the rod was built to handle stress not the bolts. the bolts will strech due to the tensile force in the exhaust stroke. the most part an engine builder looks at is the tenstile load during the exhaust stroke not mush focus on the compression stroke. so the conrod is strong enough to take the stress. now when you go past the redline, you are going over the design limit of the stock bolts. the bolt will strech(tenstile force) and ripp apart causing catastrofic damage.
if you like build your engine with stock bolts and run stock redline at about 300hp and see what happens.
true standarn engine dont need them but i was not talking about a standard engine as my woo was turboed and had the stock clutch burnt the first day.
360 Dynamics wrote:They are pretty much straight forward to replace. The tools needed are:
- basic set of metric tools
- torque wrench
- container with compressed air to blow out debris from the threads.
Don't you need a bolt stretch gauge???
I thought you had to oil up the bolts, insert them, torque them to a specific torque number, attach the rod stretch gauge, torque the bolts until gauge reads correct number for that particular bolt
Perhaps I'm thinking of something else.... but I thought that the regular "torque to XXX lb-ft" was not a correct loading procedure for ARP bolts.
Ok....did some digging and there are two methods that ARP suggests.... the standard "torque to manufacturer specifications" or use a bolt stretch gauge.
ARP suggests that you to the specified manufacturer torque specification, loosen the bolt, tighten again, loosen the bolt and finally torque it up one last time.
This loads the bolt and stretches it out a little.... if you don't follow this procedure you won't get the correct pre-load that makes the bolt function correctly.
The stretch gauge is still the prefered method for attaching connecting rod bolts but you have to buy the tool from an ARP distributor.
I personally plan to torque the bolts up using the stretch gauge as it is the most accurate indication of a correct bolt pre-load.
yeah you should look into getting better wrist pins. I'm guessing the #1 wrist pin worked itself loose and that's why it broke there. I've heard this is a major weakpoint in those engines.
mmamdouh wrote:wrist pin is OK and still holding the connecting rod... or what is left of it anyways.
MMamdouh
Well from what I read of this happening before is the wrist pin wiggles loose and causes stress on the rod. The fracture always occurs about 1" below the wrist pin.
mmamdouh wrote:wrist pin is OK and still holding the connecting rod... or what is left of it anyways.
MMamdouh
Well from what I read of this happening before is the wrist pin wiggles loose and causes stress on the rod. The fracture always occurs about 1" below the wrist pin.
i used to think that wrist pins can only damage cyilender walls if they could move sideways but this is new to me... reminds me of worn out exhaust valves that brakes in the area between the valve's face and stem.
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