turbo project take - 0000001

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:14 am

I'm having a hard time finding a seal kit for your turbo... not sure why as it's very common.

I noticed that your IHI RHB52W was listed as being in a number of Subaru cars and the 88-92 Ford Probe GT turbo so there should be replacement parts for it.

I will keep looking around and I will let you know if I find a nice cheap repair kit.

A couple of the sites listed blocked oil passage and "coked" surfaces near the bearing as being the primary cause of oil leaks.

I'm assuming that when they sake coked they are talking about carbon deposits from the exhaust (probably due to engine buring oil)

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:41 am

have you tried turbocity.com ?

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 7:10 am

ok i think i have fixed my problem and project is back on the road

i was reading and i found out that the turbo oil drain pipe can be no more than a 35 degree swing on either side of a vertical centerline, well lets just say.. i had it abit more then that =)

next i am going to rebuild the intercooler and make it more mountable on the front of the lanos, and im going to make the plumbing, this should be fun, everything is going good so far, lets hope that leak is fixed

O'yeah just thought i would ask. anyone else running a air/fuel gauge that is readable.. not the stupid graphs. if so what has it been tellin you, my air fuel gauge has been telling me that the lanos seems to run at about 1.07 - 1.23, maybe its just my car but that could be cause it is but ass cold out side

bed time

thanks for the help guys

gti_7 · Post by **gti_7** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 3:15 pm

WooHoo wrote: [snip]...my air fuel gauge has been telling me that the lanos seems to run at about 1.07 - 1.23, maybe its just my car but that could be cause it is but ass cold out side

Hi.. dont mean to contractict you, but your readings.. perhaps you mis-places the decimel point? maybe you meant 10.7 to 12.3?

Bernard

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Mon Oct 13, 2003 4:00 pm

nope thats what it reads..
its a digital a/f gauge and it goes from 0.00 amps to 2.55 amps, and seeing how the sensor only sends a 1 amp (or somewhere around there) signal to the computer, but sence im not running a 600$ sensor it will never be right on the money... in that case i dont think anyone else that doesnt have it will be either..

maybe the analog gauges read a bit different i dont know, its off to work i go

tango · Post by **tango** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 2:56 am

I think what Bernard is refering to is the mixture ratio, as opposed to the current reading. Never heard of a mixture gauge displaying amps either. Or are you refering to it picking up current from the oxygen sensor?

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 5:17 am

yeah basicly thats all its doing is picking up the current cause i can use my gauge or i can just plain out use a meter from radio shack and they will read the same, well thats what i have heard anyways,

but with a analog gauge it works about the same as the digital gauge, but instead of it displaying the results in numbers it will move a needle

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 6:33 am

heres someting i ran acrost the other day but lost it, then found it again

O2 sensor voltage reading=air/fuel ratio i.e.: .1v=17:1, .3v=16:1, .5v=14.9, .7v=13.8:1, .9v=12.7:1

the only thing different about my gauge here is that the decimal is in a different place

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:37 am

i have a few questions that i would like another opinion on

first of all i need to know what size the lanos oil filter fitting is

heres a link to some sandwich adapters

http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/Produ ... andapt.asp

and i have been looking around for a boost controller and pulled up this on ebay

any good??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2437536285

tango · Post by **tango** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 10:29 pm

Okay I did some digging. Our stock oil filters have the following dimensions:

HEIGHT: 3.404"
OUTER DIAMETER: 2.921"
THREAD SIZE: 18x1.5mm
GASKET OUTER DIA: 2.734"
GASKET INNER DIA: 2.430"
GASKET THICKNESS: 0.226"

That's as much as I could find out...

Here's the link:
Oil Filter Dimensions

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 11:02 pm

sweet thanks man

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 7:59 pm

The O2 voltage is totally dependant on the manufacturer of the sensor but your voltage estimates are fairly close. (I measured both O2 sensors a few months back when I removed the precat and replaced it with something I fabricated (straight pipe) )

The current thing is odd....I don't know....maybe it's really reading in milliamps and not amps.....the ECU could never handle that much current....most cmos based MPU gates are going to fry at anything over 200 milliamps (0.200 Amps) and some are only rated to 25mA.

Most if not all ECU's don't detect current they detect voltage and then they use an anolog to digital converter to turn it into a digital number which is then compared against a table of values inside the MPU. (central processor of the ECU)

I will check into it further via my shop manual when I get home....perhaps it draws current through a resistor network to keep the current high while allowing the ECU to sample the voltage accross the network.

Sorry for the technobabble.... I'm writing what I'm thinking....I will try to keep it more "user friendly" in the future.

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 2:35 am

i dont know how it works,

but i rewired everything and now it seems to be running at about .5 to .6 i dont know what changed but i have noticed that it jumps around alot

maybe i didnt have it connected right but it seems to have way more activity now

any reason for it jumpin around??

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 4:35 am

That's a good sign because your fuel ratio will move all over the place naturally.

As well the 0.5 to 0.6 is about right for O2 sensor output on the Lanos's stock O2 sensor.

During normal operation while fooling with the throttle I saw everything from 0.1 Volts all the way up to 0.9 Volts.

Your main concern will be during full out throttle making sure that your injectors keep up to your turbo.

I'm not sure at what ratio you might start to see engine knock ( ANYBODY KNOW ????) but you would be wise to keep it near the 0.5 to 0.6 level under full power.

Some people might even try to run on the rich side and try to run it around the 13:1 ratio just to be safe (approx 0.8V ??)

You can allways fool with it later to try and bring it closer to the ideal 14.7:1 ratio ( roughly 0.5)

Who knows what your going to end up with once you slap on a turbo and an RRFPR.....could be lean....could be rich.....I would hope for rich and try and tune it later (slightly lean will give more power but it is dangerous)

The biggest thing I would say you should watch for is at high RPM and full throttle....I'm a little worried about how much you can get out of the stock fuel pump.

I know there are booster pumps you can buy if your stock pump needs a little extra help but I'm not sure how much they cost.

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 4:48 am

thanks for your imput

and yes i have looked into it and i dont know what the stock fuel pump is capable of but i have been looking for a good booster pump incase

usually when my foots on the gas its at about 0.65 to 0.74 but when its in revers its at like 0.83 any reason for this?

this week i will go and make my adapter pipe to fit it from the original manifold to the turbo and maybe in the future i can make headers or get them made but right now i wont have time or the money,

off to bed i go i have to wake at 5 am tomorrow for work... big meeting!!