Antifreeze Type?

mari · Post by **mari** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 4:30 am

Hi everyone!

I have a 1999 Lanos SX that I bought last year that I just love! My husband is doing all the maintenance on it and had asked me to find out what kind of Antifreeze I need to get. I looked at the manual but it only states demineralized water and 50/50. We can't believe that's all it says.
So I was wondering what would be best for my car? The car is usually used for around town, getting the kids for school etc. however, my husband will be using it to drive back and forth to work, which is 75 miles per day. The weather varies here, in Illinois, it can get pretty cold.

Any and all info would be much appreciated. I recently had to get repairs done this car and boy is it hard finding parts!

Thanks.

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 5:03 am

just get that new prestone yellow.. good stuff mixes with all works on all

daewooluvr · Post by **daewooluvr** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:35 am

Personally I use Peak but you can really use anything if you flush the entire system out.

Also, parts aren't hard to find anymore. Now that you've joined this forum you'll know where to look for help.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 11:46 am

i use Mobil coolant, it says 33% concentration... whatever that means.

i have been using it for the past 6 years and no complaints whatsoever.

MMamdouh

rev320 · Post by **rev320** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:46 pm

You should be able to use any typical (ethylene glycol based) antifreeze at 50% as long as it's a major brand or even a store brand as long as the label says something about aluminum protection . . . and I think they all do.

I live in Wisconsin, and a 50% mix is adequate for both Summer and Winter here. In a more tropical climate, 33% antifreeze would give you a little better cooling at the expense of freeze protection in really cold weather. In Alaska, you might need as much as 70% antifreeze.

If you use one of the newer extended life types (Dexcool, etc.) you will need to flush the system completely with water first, or the silicates in the remaining old coolant will spoil the long life characteristics of the new stuff. If you don't flush first, nothing bad will happen except that the new stuff won't last as long.

If your water is especially hard, using distilled water to dilute the antifreeze or using a pre-diluted type is a good idea. Where I live our hardness is only 7 grains/gallon so I just use tap water without a problem.

mari · Post by **mari** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:25 pm

Thanks for all of your information!

It is much appreciated. I told my husband about this forum and he is very very excited that I joined, he wants to "trick out" his ride. LOL.

I look forward to checking out all the things I can do to improve our WOO.

Thanks Again!

flat6 · Post by **flat6** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 12:26 am

Lol Mari

Thats what i thought when i found this forum, couldnt believe it existed

Lanos's are a great little car, its good to see theres a fan base out there

As for coolant, its prob best to just buy the premixed stuff, less hassle in mixing 50/50

AcingTeam · Post by **AcingTeam** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 3:04 am

Any auto store, just buy a 50/50 antifreeze. That's what I did, and have no complaints.

rev320 · Post by **rev320** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:39 pm

If you are flushing your cooling system with water, it is hard to get it all out. Adding 50/50 mix will result in a somewhat more diluted result.

After flushing a car and draining as much water as I can, I add 100% antifreeze to the system until I have poured in 1/2 of the listed system capacity. I then finish off the fill with water. My result is (or at least should be) a true 50/50 mix.

I then dilute any left over antifreeze to 50% and store it in its original container . . . clearly marked "50%" with a permanent marker. I use that for top-offs after subsequent repairs, etc.

If you're just draining and refilling, premixed is certainly an easier way to go.

genie47 · Post by **genie47** » Sat Apr 09, 2005 8:45 am

Most radiators now are aluminium and this has given rise to different schools of thought.

The color doesn't mean a thing anymore. What is inside makes the difference.

Traditional ethylene glycol
Uses silicates to passivate metal surfaces to prevent corrosion. OK to use in European based designed cars (Daewoo and Daewoo engineered Chevies as well). Cannot be used in Japanese cars.

Ethylene glycol - no silicates
Used in Japanese cars. Due to the seal materials used in their designs, the silicates will precipitate out and become abrasive stuff. Uses phosphates to inhibit corrosion.

Ethylene glycol - low silicates, low phosphates
Used in the new European cars. They got a problem with phosphates foaming from Europe's hard water (as if distilled water can't be found in Europe

).

Monopropylene glycol
Does not conduct heat as well as ethylene glycol but is reported less toxic. Carries no recommendation from any car manufacturer. Some caution against using it.

Organic acid technology
OAT as they call it. AKA GM-Dexcool (or Deathcool to some

) Recyclable and biodegradable antifreeze which is based on organic acids and is silicate- and phosphate-free. Due to the nature of the chemicals used, it can attack certain seal and gasket materials and therefore should only be used in vehicles for which it is factory specified.

DO NOT MIX glycol based antifreeze with OAT ones! If you must, you have to chemically flush your coolant system before changing over!

Ethylene Glycol-based Hybrid Organic Acid Technology
They call this HOAT. Prestone's yellow/orange 5/150 is HOAT based. It uses glycol and OAT based corrosion inhibitors. There is some silicate added. Most of them uses BASF's "Glysantin" additive. Less agressive than straight OAT and offers better cavitation resistance. Like OAT, best to flush your system thoroughly before using. Another nice HOAT based antifreeze is Valvoline's Zerex G-05.