BosnianLanos wrote:IDK, my injector tip was metal, there wasn't any way that even hard brushing with a hard brush could have affected it.
I don't know if they if your injectors are different.
Wouldn't it depend on the type of metal?
If it's a soft metal it could scrape or such?
I'm not really knowledgable with this in depth of the engine as of yet.. during the summer i plan on ripping apart the block and fixing it up a good by while i have my lancer and vice versa when xmas time comes around.
KnightWalace: thats is exactly my concern... i am afrad of scratching the tip of the injector and damage it... back in the old days when servicing carburators, we were prohibited from inserting any metallic objects into the carb's ports because that will make them ports wider and mess the air\fuel mixture... i don't know if this is the case with the injectors.
BosnianLanos: will the metal brush scratch the tips of the injectors as previously illustrated? are your injectors performing flawlessly after the cleanup job?? i am afraid of messing them up and have to buy new ones in the end.
also was that a dry cleanup job you did on your injectors?? i mean didn't you use any fluids or cleaners while scrubbing the tips of the injectors?? i am planing on doing this with the use of WD 40 or some carburator cleaner fluid to make the cleanup job more effectiive... any suggestions??
as for my injectors... i don't know the type but they look exactly like thease:
That is the exactly what my injectors looked like, only in that pic, you only see the top, not the metallic bottom, it is just a round piece of metal (steel) in a metal (steel) ring that goes back and forth to adjust gas flow.
I do believe that I used WD-40 in my cleanup. Yes, they are performing flawlessly, even better than before, engine revs more smoothly.
If you are afraid to use the wire brush, you can easily use a toothbrush or even something softer as the deposits weren't that big, I could have used my fingernail.
thats very good feedback man... i was one step away from spending 480 LE ($80) on new injectors while i only have 58800 Kms on the car...i still have to buy a mid exhaust box and power steering rack oil seals so the last thing i need is spending more money.
i will do the cleanup job for sure... probably while the other things are beeing repaired and i will post my feedback as soon as i do.
thanks for all you guys for the help... especially you BosnianLanos.
As its allready been mentioned, thats what happens when your car lives on cheap fuel (its like living on mc donalds)
Fill up with premium at least once every 5 refills, better yet, to fix your current problem, buy a bottle of injector cleaner and add 1/3 of the bottle to your fuel talk before you refill.
Engine runs smoother and cleaner after it, worked quite well on my lanos
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1999 Daewoo Lanos SX
1.6Ltr 16valve
Pod Filter (A must for every lanos)
i used STP fuel injectors cleaner as per STP's instructions (full can for a full tank) and nothing happened then i used the same can on a 1/2 tank and nothing... it seems i have to go mechanical rather than chemical.
i will get the mechanic take off them injectors off and clean them up with WD 40... probably i will do the cleanup job myself to make sure it is 100% clean then i will put them back on... i have high hopes that this will cure the issues i have so that i don't have to buy a new set of injectors.
Don't be too surprised if your injectors aren't too dirty, I was expecting to take out oil covered filthy messes but due to injector cleaners they were a bit cleaner than the pics WooHoo posted.
Now they are at like new status, and the engine runs smoother. Now I only have about a million more things to do.
well... i went to the mechnic yesterday and i told him i want to clean my injectors and he said the are not cleanable and i just have to use cleaning products or replace them.
i already used cleaning products and they did nothing and for a replacment i will pay some 700 LE (117 USD) labor not included.
i also got an OBD scan to see if the O2 sensor is the problem but it turned out that the injectors are the problem... the guy that owns the scanner told me to use Octane 92... how will that help my injectors??
i think i am going to do the job myself so i wanted to ask a few things first:
1- how to take the injectors off? do you just take off those two 13mm bolts that holds the fuel rail and its done?? i also see the upper part of the injector hed by some clip to the fuel rail... how to remove that??
2- is their any problems that can happen in the process?? i don't want to end up damaging them or so and have to buy new ones.
thanks for the help guys... i really appreciate it.
Well guys? I plunged into the job myself and I came out with the following feedback:
to remove the injectors you need to remove the two 12mm bolts (not 13mm as I mentioned before), take off the fuel feed and return lines and the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator and the injectors? electrical sockets
This way you will free the fuel rail and it will come out with all the injectors attached to it? the trick part though is to maneuver the damn thing around the EGR, TB, crank case breather and the intake rubber tube. I was forced to remove the injectors off the rail before I was able to get it off the engine.
To remove the injector from the rail you have to pull out the little clip at the top of the injector then yank the injector out of the rail? probably this will find its way into a how to remove your injectors.
I inspected the injectors and the only thing I could notice is some black smog on the tips? nothing else could be seen other than the usual dirt on its body. I brought a can of WD 40 and a small toothbrush and I started working.
The WD 40 cleaned the smoggy tips easily with the help of the toothbrush but I couldn?t force any WD 40 into the inside of the injector because it is closed (DOUH)? also when I cleaned the tips I could see that the valve that opens and closes the fuel path is no where to be seen, you can only see a golden plate at the tip of the injectors that got 6 very fine ports.
My mechanic?s diagnosis concluded that my #1 injector is well functioning, #2 & 3 are slightly leaking and #4 is leaking too much and as long as they are leaking then my problem is in the injector?s valve and I couldn?t reach that because it is closed so does any one know how to open an injector?? I mean what current and polarity I need to have at the injector?s socket to force the valve to be open all the time?? If I could do that I will spray WD 40 inside it and hope it removes all the crap that is preventing the valve from sitting tight. BTW my mechanic?s diagnostic was based on how much smog there was on the respective spark plug of each injector? smart I say.
I wanted to make sure that my injectors are leaking (I am a skeptical person) so after I left all 4 injectors soaked in a WD 40 bath for an hour or so I installed them back on the fuel rail with the clips back on and I reconnected the fuel feed and return lines back on but I left the fuel rail hanging on the cam cover with the injectors facing forward so I could see the tips.
I then turned my ignition key on so that the fuel pump works and builds up some fuel pressure? after a minuet or so I could see the injectors leak. The fuel was on the tip of the injectors as dewdrops? I dried the injectors? tips with a rug and repeated the test and it came out with the same results and the leak severity was just as my mechanic described? I know now that he is damn good.
Now with the valves unreachable, leak confirmed and no idea how to open the injector?s valve I decided to do some crazy idea? I took off the fuel rail again and all the injectors emptied all the fuel in it then I filled it with WD 40. the idea here was to make a shot of WD 40 to the injectors? valves during the first few engine cranks.
The fuel rail was all full of WD 40 and I had to install the injectors on it first to prevent it from spilling out? also I had to install the whole thing directly on the engine, taking off one injector is not an option here.
Of course the installation was impossible like that? their was no room to maneuver the injectors around to I had to take off the following parts to make the job succeed: top cover of the air box, rubber air intake hose, breather hose, TB, throttle control wire and the little metal part that holds it on the intake.
Yes it was damn hard but I did it then I got every thing back on the car and tried to start the engine? for the first few cranks the engine didn?t start, WD 40 is not that combustible after all then the engine started with lots of sputter and hesitation then gradually idled smoothly? light blue\white smoke was coming off the exhaust and it faded away fast.
I gave the car time to warm up then took it for a test drive? nothing changed at all performance wire even the mild hesitation I got in idling is still their? it seems the cleanup job was a failure.
So this means that you guys and my mechanic are both right and wrong: you can take off the injector and clean them up but that cleanup wont do you any good if you have injector problem.
and i just have to use cleaning products or replace them.
