Project Daewoo Lanos 2.0L Turbo

daewooluvr · Post by **daewooluvr** » Fri Sep 26, 2003 12:02 pm

great job, and when you're done with yours why don't ya come over here to do mine

hehe

Goldenboy · Post by **Goldenboy** » Sat Sep 27, 2003 3:58 pm

I bought the same engine as you Erefinder. I'll start the project as soon the winter hit me and I have to hide my car from the winter

.
Keep us post of your project I'm sure it will be really helpfull to me and other who are planing to do it. BTW i'M doing it with one of my friend who is a mecanic engineer....like you I think...right??

Mat

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Sep 28, 2003 11:29 pm

I have the GM factory manual for the Sunbird so if you need diagrams or anything just let me know because it has everything you could ever need or want to know about the engine.

Goldenboy · Post by **Goldenboy** » Mon Sep 29, 2003 7:26 pm

TX a lot man I really apreciate...I'll let you know if I need someting!

Mat

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 12:14 am

Mat,

The only issue I have is a possible accessory pully clearance (alternator) issue due to the difference in the shape of the Lanos's front engine mounting member compared to that of a Pontiac Lemans (old Lanos)

I won't know until I pull the other engine and drop the 2.0L in to see how everything fits.( I personally think it needs another 3/4" for the alt pully but one of the guys helping me... GsiTurbo thinks it will be fine )

By the way GsiTurbo has allready done the 1.6L to 2.0L turbo swap in his Pontiac Lemans (which is identical in almost every way to our Lanos)

I have the engine ready to go...half the engine mount bolts are allready removed...I should have it pulled out tonight or tommorow morning.

Then I plan to pull the 1.5L and drop in the 2.0L to make sure everything clears just to make sure.

If it doesn't I am going to go pull out the section I need from a Lemans at a wrecking yard and weld it into place in my engine bay or else do as the british guys do and hit it with a sledge hammer until it fits (and no I'm not kidding....this is a true story....C20LET into a Nova which is even smaller than a Lanos)

Goldenboy · Post by **Goldenboy** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 12:24 am

We are curently rebuilding the engin over here. I'll join oyu in the swapping adventure somewhen around december. Good to have someone trying the same thing i'll let you know if I discover something special wile rebuilding.

Mat

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 12:25 am

Here is GsiTurbo's site... http://www3.telus.net/GsiTurbo/

Here is one of the best 2.0L conversion sites I've found.

http://www.topbuzz1.carenthusiasts.co.u ... ersion.htm

The swap is putting the engine into a Nova which is smaller than the Lanos/Astra/Kadett/LeMans but most of the info is great.

Here are a couple of other ones....

http://www.astraturbo.com/
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sean.ramsey/Dazs%20Car.htm
http://home.wanadoo.nl/boerdam/index-uk.htm
http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/home.htm

Post by **Efratech** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 6:28 pm

Erfinder wrote: I won't know until I pull the other engine and drop the 2.0L in to see how everything fits.( I personally think it needs another 3/4" for the alt pully but one of the guys helping me... GsiTurbo thinks it will be fine )

i also say u i'll have no problems, even if i dont have the 2.0 turbo i still have a 2.0 and had no problems.

My engine:

Me trying to reach the clutch cable:

*Interior pics on the Elec/interior forum

mocpac · Post by **mocpac** » Sat Oct 04, 2003 7:22 pm

Just a question. A stock engine resit a turbo or have to change every part of it for stronger parts?

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 05, 2003 4:28 am

Well it's all done....finally removed the 2.0L Turbo out of the Sunbird.

What a pain....they sure didn't make it easy with some of the blind bolts.

I had a heck of a time getting at some of the bolts as they were located in all kinds of evil places.....I swear there is some GM engineer sitting in his office reading this and chuckling at how hard it was to get at everything.

For example....one of the bolts is located under the primary transmission mount so you have to remove it including 6 other not so fun bolts just to get at this single tranny to block bolt.

Needless to say I had to go out to a local tool store a couple of times to get some oddball tools (18mm wrench, female star sockets) and in total including breaks, lunch and going to the store twice it took me 9 hours.

Needless to say if I had to do it a second time I could probably do it in 3 hours since I know which way to get at the bolts the best.

I have some pics of the engine out in the open on the hoist so I will probably post them sometime in the next few days.

mocpac_ser..... not sure what your asking.... are you wondering if the engine I have is a factory turbo?? If so ..... yes it's much the same block as maniac16V except that GM gave it a Garrett T25 turbo + manifold, Sodium cooled valves (turbo valves), and some forged internals (pistons and crank????).

In it's stock form it will take 12psi no problem with a resulting net output of about 250Whp. (300hp@crank)

The only thing I was warned about is that I should go ahead and replace the stock bolts with ARP bolts because some of the factory bolts are somewhat weak (such as the connecting rod bolts)

I plan to rebuild my 2.0L turbo (C20E) and possibly convert it into a 16V engine (stock = 8V head) which will make it the same as a C20LET which is found in Europe and the UK.

tango · Post by **tango** » Sun Oct 05, 2003 2:47 pm

Erfinder...glad to hear that you're making waves. Been away from the board for a little while but, never to far away. i'm actually in a position now where dropping a C20XE or a X20XEV in my engine-bay will be a necessity more than a want. My G15MF is acting silly (bogging down) after I installed a turbo. As it happens I'm not finished with diagnosing the problem so when I do I will know if I will need to change the engine or if it can be fixed, go that route.

mocpac · Post by **mocpac** » Sun Oct 05, 2003 3:37 pm

Erfinder wrote:
mocpac_ser..... not sure what your asking.... are you wondering if the engine I have is a factory turbo?? If so ..... yes it's much the same block as maniac16V except that GM gave it a Garrett T25 turbo + manifold, Sodium cooled valves (turbo valves), and some forged internals (pistons and crank????).

Ok, first yu are making what car turbo? And que question is. If you pt a turbo, in an engine who is not turbo. The engine resist the of the Turbo?

(ex. the sunbird turbo in a lanos engine.)

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:56 am

The 2.0L turbo ( C20E ) is being pulled out of a 1987 Pontiac Sunbird GT and then it will be rebuilt and put into my 2001 Daewoo Lanos Hatchback.

If you put a turbo on a non-turbo engine like the stock 1.6L Lanos engine you will have many problems to overcome ( see posts by tango )

The 2.0L turbo swap will require a pile of electrical work to make the Sunbird wiring harness and ECU fit into the Lanos but it will be well worth the time if I end up with a car that can destroy very expensive cars like mustangs,corvettes, maybe even a Viper???

300 Hp at the crank and 2000 lbs is one mean combination... think about it this way.... a 3000 lb car would require about 450hp to keep the same horsepower to weight ratio.

Examples (the lower the lbs/hp the better)

Turbo Lanos... 2000lbs, 300hp = 6.6 lbs/hp 0-60 estimated = 3.8 seconds

and possibly a 1/4mile time in the 11.75s range

Lamb Murcielago... 3638lbs, 571hp = 6.4 lbs/hp 0-60= 3.51 sec
Viper SRT-10.... 3357lbs, 500hp = 6.7 lbs/hp 0-60= 3.94 sec
Ferrari 575M.... 3815lbs, 508hp = 7.5 lbs/hp 0-60= 4.16 sec
Benz CL55 AMG... 4255lbs, 493hp = 8.6 lbs/hp 0-60= 4.27 sec
Corvette Z06... 3118lbs, 405hp = 7.7 lbs/hp 0-60= 4.29 sec
Mitzu Lancer EVO...3263lbs, 271hp =12 lbs/hp 0-60= 4.59 sec
Mustang Cobra... 3665lbs, 390hp = 9.4 lbs/hp 0-60= 4.82 sec
Jaguar XKR.... 3865lbs, 390hp = 9.9lbs/hp 0-60= 5.21 sec

As you may notice the horspower to weight ratio really dictates how fast a car is (assuming you can manage to get traction)

You also have to take engine torque into it to make it totally accurate (example the CL55 had a 6% better torque to weight ratio compared to the Z06 which is why it beat it on the 0-60 time)

The only reason the Lancer did so well is due to it's AWD system (which was probably damaged during the 5000RPM launch)

So like I said....it would be nice to hunt down $100,000 sports cars and destroy them coming off the lights. (all for about $10,000 USD including the cost of the cars !!!!!)

I know it will be hard to "hook up" that much power but I want a Quaife Limited Slip differencial and some tires with some serious grip so that I can try and make it off the line without creating a huge pile of expensive tire smoke.

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz · Mon Oct 06, 2003 8:20 am

Because my other automotive love are old air-cooled Volkswagons, I always go to the VW shows.

I saw a 1963 VW Beetle run the 1/4 mile in 7.229 secs @ 189.72 mph.

It was just crazy! This guy with the Beetle stomped all over a superchraged 5.0 Mustang on the track. It was actually sad to see how much faster this Beetle was. It really made the guy in the Mustang stop bragging about how badly he was going to kill the Beetle in the 1/4 mile. The Mustang did the same run in 12.442 secs at 114.67 mph. (I think that's how fast it was)

Imagine the Mustang driver's depression as a Beetle beat him by more than 5 seconds .... LOL ... He had gone to the VW show to "Prove to these VW owners how slow their cars really were against a V8 muscle car."

daewooluvr · Post by **daewooluvr** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 1:33 pm

Erfinder wrote:300 Hp at the crank and 2000 lbs is one mean combination... think about it this way.... a 3000 lb car would require about 450hp to keep the same horsepower to weight ratio.

Examples (the lower the lbs/hp the better)

Turbo Lanos... 2000lbs, 300hp = 6.6 lbs/hp 0-60 estimated = 3.8 seconds and possibly a 1/4mile time in the 11.75s range

Your weights are a little big off. The stock Lanos weighs 2450 without driver. Now add the additional weight of the 2.0T and you're going to be somewhere upwards of 2600 without driver. Always figure in your own weight when calculating 1/4mi E/Ts