Post your Oil...

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 9:14 pm

Mobil 1 15W40 fully synthetic.

asam · Post by **asam** » Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:05 am

Casterol Syntec 5w-30

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz · Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:07 am

Either Wal Mart 10W30 full synthetic or semi synthetic, depending what is on the shelf.

My Hyundai Excel was sold with over 200,000 miles on the orrigional engien without a rebuild and had compression almost as good as new on all 4 cylinders. The car ONLY EVER got Wal Mart or Advance Auto parts store brand 10W30 or 10W40 and the cheapest, $1.79 oil filters I could find.

I sold the car to a coworker, and he says it still drives like new. He comutes to work with it every day.

Cliff

AcingTeam · Post by **AcingTeam** » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:49 am

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz wrote:Either Wal Mart 10W30 full synthetic or semi synthetic, depending what is on the shelf.

My Hyundai Excel was sold with over 200,000 miles on the orrigional engien without a rebuild and had compression almost as good as new on all 4 cylinders. The car ONLY EVER got Wal Mart or Advance Auto parts store brand 10W30 or 10W40 and the cheapest, $1.79 oil filters I could find.

I sold the car to a coworker, and he says it still drives like new. He comutes to work with it every day.

Cliff

Same here... 10W30 at wal mart... whatever's cheaper.

genie47 · Post by **genie47** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 1:38 pm

There is some difference in performance depending on what oil you use.

I keep hearing Castrol Syntec 5W30. I believe some of you are in the US and Castrol Syntec is basically Group III base stock oil. In other words, very highly refined dino oil. Refined to the point that all the wax stuff that gives sludge is hydrocracked. So its performance is very close to Group IV PAO base stock of which many true synthetics use. Close but not PAO.

Therefore, Castrol Syntec is not synthetic in the chemical engineer's point of view. The base stock does not matter except in situations where you like very long drains (anything more than 10k miles) or have an engine that need very high quality synthetic due to high performance like forced induction applications.

OK so what really matters in engine oil? Viscosity. Studies have shown that about 5-6% of an engine's power is lost from lubrication friction. Silkolene did a study by doing dynos on monster 1000cc bikes with grades 15W50, 5W40 and finally 0W20. What was revealed that there was a 2.9% increase from 15W50 when using 5W40, 2.1% increase when using 0W20 over 5W40 and overall a 5% increase.

See link: http://www.silkoleneoil.com/techtip6.htm

So should you run out and get a 5W20 or 0W20? No. Those monster bikes run like crazy for 200miles before going back to Japan. FYI, NASCAR uses 5 or 10wt oil only for qualifying to squeeze out all the horsepower.

The other problem with oil with that low a viscosity is fuel dilution. Thicker oil resists fuel dilution in engine oil. Fuel dilution will thin out engine oil and thus the oil is unable to perform its primary function to protect the parts.

So for regular driving around in a stock normally aspirated engine, stick to the 10W30 or 5W30. If you can afford it, the famed "German Castrol" 0W30 is good too if you experience subzero Canadian winters. Depending on the base stock, stick to 8k, 7.5k or 10k miles change intervals. Too long an interval and you will run the risk of sludging. Too short and you might be draining out oil that is still useful, a terrible waste.

There are more things to consider like HTHS among other things. Anyway, if any of you have queries about engine oil, go to http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

This is the Bobistheoilguy forum. These guys live, eat and breathe engine oil

Oh yes, I use Conoco Hydroclear 5W30 Asia Pacific formulation. 10k km drain intervals.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:36 pm

just two things to add or should i say ask:

1- concerning friction... what about them oil addetives we hear about on TV and all?? stuff like Motor Up and things like that that is supposed to reduce friction and help protect engine parts... does this stuff really work or is it just some crap in a bottle?

the tests they do on TV are amazing but i am that kinda guy that doesn't get convinced unless i try the thing myself or get feedback from a really trstworthy person, i can't test those products 'cause i have to buy them first and they are expensive so i am looking for feedback on that amoung you guys.

2- one more thing that affects oil i think is decomposition... i remeber i came across an article saying that oil decomposes by time especially if it is in sutable conditions like heating, pressure and stuff like that which are a standard issue in a normaly functioning engine. i think keeping your oil too long even when you don't have so much miles on it is not right either... right?

in my case i change my Mobil 1 fully synthetic every 3125 miles... lots of people say this is too low milage for oil change but the thing is i cover this distance in some 6 to 7 months and i drive my Woo hard and in city crouded traffic so i am not going to keep my oil which was sevearly abused more than 7 monthis in the engine.

so far the engine is performing very well and even my mechanic is impressed with my engine performance in comparison with Woos that are as old as mine ('99 Lanos sedan) and i am not willing to mess with my mantenace plan.

MMamdouh

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz · Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:05 pm

Then I guess it won't hurt that I make sure to change my oil every 3,000 miles/4800km. With how much I drive, often that is an oil change every 2 weeks! LOL

Cliff

EDIT: I forgot to mention I always use Fram Double Guard oil filters with Teflon in them. Also, every 4th or 5th oil change, I substitute a bottle of oil with a bottle of Slick 50 so there is a constant recirculation of teflon through the engine.

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 3:17 pm

I've started using the Restore engine restorer in hopes to regain compression and stop burning oil. After 600 miles, I do feel the engine increasing in strength and I hope that after a few more uses, the engine will be back to newer standards.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 10:23 pm

what exactly does teflon do to the engine??

MMamdouh

genie47 · Post by **genie47** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:34 am

All the MotorUp stuff is nothing but snake oil. Engine oil is formulated by petrochem engineers to do what exactly what it is supposed to do w/o any more addition of these "additives".

However, there are some exceptions like AutoRx but you won't need it unless your car is filled with stuff that need cleaning out.

Teflon only does one thing in your engine.......sludge up.

Concerning mileage and how long the oil should stay in your engine. It should be the recommended mileage or 6mths whichever comes first. If you don't cover that change interval mileage in a year, it is still safe to change the oil out only once a year.

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz · Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:42 am

As for changing it, I put on the 3000 miles in 2 weeks, so I do have need to change it that often.

The Teflon making sludge? Show me proof of it putting sludge in the engine. It kept my old Hyundai engine shiney and new looking inside because nothing stuck to it. Also, after I started using it, the engine temp dropped and the gas milage increased. My Lanos engine looks like new inside still with no dark build up anywhere.

I'll use it because it has worked very well for me.

Cliff

lanos2001 · Post by **lanos2001** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:47 am

well i use 5w30(i think) mobile one synthetic. but on a related subject. i've had a slow leak from my drain plug and its the gasket thats doing it. my friend that works at walmart that changed my oil put in a little cheapo walmart one that is like cloth or something like that and it still leaks. he was talking aout getting a metal one so it doesn't do that. anyone know where i could get one? i tried autozone but they had the same cheapo stuff.

i'm tired of grinding kittie litter with my feet. i'm afraid i'm gonna look like an olympic squatter with those thighs that look like you could stick in a piece of coal and get a diamond.

genie47 · Post by **genie47** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:52 am

Sludge is heavy, sticky or both. The only place you or many will not see in your engine is the sump. That is where most of the crud build up. Furthermore, teflon particles are solid. They will not stay in solution. Either your filter caught most of it or it went down into the sump and got drained out everytime you change.

Trust me, if you want to save cash. Buy a cheaper oil and drain it at 3k mile intervals. I heard Supertech is going for USD0.99 per qt in some places. Unbeatable! Rated SM too.

asam · Post by **asam** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 2:46 am

Ive heard alot of bad things about Teflod and that ptfe stuff. I use Prolong and Castrol Syntec. Ichange every 3,000mi. Maybe I sould go longer with out a change

. Prolong also warrenties your engine when you use it every 6,000mi.

genie47 · Post by **genie47** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 4:05 am

Prolong will prolong agony.

Read this link to a post in BITOG forum. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 3;t=002298

Also listed is a virgin oil analysis of Prolong circa patent 1989:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 1;t=000113