More HP in 10 minutes

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

Ok now I know what you will be thinking this is a big load of BULL but I bought it I mean hey $8

well I can't understand how it works but it sure as heck does and with my recent tune up My woo screams it is a very noticeable difference. and no I am not the seller of this product I just bought one and tried it wow pretty cool little mod

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWN%3AIT

Take that thing OFF before you damage your car. You can foul your oxygen sensors, clog your catalytic convertor and possibly even damage your car's computer.
All it is, is a cheap resistor plugged into your air intake sensor connector.

I should have posted NOT to buy these things on my 'Welcome to the forum' post in the General section.
There was a big long thread in here about how bad those things are for you car.
If you want a HP gain by fooling your air intake sensor, get one that is specifically made for you car, called the Chocolate Chip available at www.daewootech.net

http://www.daewootech.net/store/aitchip.htm

The other alternative is to build a varible resistance setup with a turn knob as erfinder has talked about in one of the posts in here.

The resistor that you plug in to replace the air intake sensor makes the ECU think that the temperature is cold all the time, so it is dumping a LOT more gas into the engine and making your gas milage go WAY down.

It would be a very good idea to take that thing off your car as soon as possible.


Cliff

[Slammed]

Thank you for your input :O)

Now please don't be offended but that looks the same as the one I bought just with plastic around it??
What is the difference between the one I bought and this one you posted ??

[asam]

I will never use one of those but the difference is the resistance (ohms). They might look the same on the outside but could be built alot differently on the inside. Trust fooling with your computer is not smart.

[RhinoWrecker]

Sorry for butting in guys but I just had to ask one question...does disconnecting the original air box from the air hose damage the engine in any kind of way? Also, will it give me better gas mileage?

[woo]

the airbox contains your airfilter, so without it you risk engine damage

[RhinoWrecker]

ok, thanks for your help

[norman]

moin,

@Slammed: for this product , you only spend your money. it is only a resitor. you can get everywhere for some cent...
a friend tested it in his daewoo nexia...just a joke, nothing more...



i don?t read the complete posting, but what a saw in this pic is not the best construction. first the airfilter gets a lot of warm air from the engine. second, the air that comes through the new filter, bypasses the sensor for airtemperature... so the motorcontroller can?t mixe the best fuel/air mixture...

when the engine gets more air + the wrong airtemperature, your car run?s to slim (not enough fuel in the mixture). the result is a hole in the forcer...

sorry for my english, but i give my best

tschau norman

[asam]

Its kind of like the choclate chip. That air box has a direct line to the fog light hole. I used 3" Abs plastic piping. I completely removed the lower box. So the sensor reads cold but short rams the air in the corner. I have taken air temps of the of that coner spot and they are actually fairly cool. My under the hood setup has changed a bit since that pic. The resonater has been removed and I set up a heat sheild by the air filter. I have also heat rapped all the lines then recoated them in black. Ill take some pics when I have some time. I have tried different configureations under the hood for intake and this seems to work the best. I have constructed just a cold air and had weaker results. But what ever you guys think works.

[Slammed]

Oh yeah I ended up buying the Choco Chip from DaewooTech and I love it big diff from the crap on Ebay

[asam]

I want to get one too but they say for lanos only. my config works great but the chip would be best.

[Dagwoodtsrw]

I do not understand where you get these CFM numbers. The idea for your cold air box is to reduce head loss up to the throttle body. A 2.0L engine spinning at 6500 RPM equates to 459.09 CMF, 565 CFM @ 8K RPM, etc. Your numbers for CFM on your air box need to be backed by D/P (differential pressure) at a specific RPM so that headloss numbers can be realized. Obviously, the more air you can flow, the less head loss but just because you have a lot of openings doesn't mean that differential pressure and head loss has been reduced. There is a point of maximum restriction in every system and it is key to eliminate those as you find them. The ideal restriction of the system would be limited to the trottle body and the intake valve but remember that laminar flow should be maintained for greater mass air flow into the cylinder (turbulance is good for mixing but reduces volumetric efficiency). This is why a large smooth-wall pipe is preferable to the corrugated plastic you are showing. I suspect you replace this and you will see a better increase of HP.

[asam]

im using 3" ABS plasic now. read the other posts so you'll know what im doing. ive done it through 1 opening and had less results. i had it dynoed in tacoma a while back. the two opening method seems to work. i also use inserts like the turbonator to limit turbulence. works pettey good. nice and cold too. oh and its a 2.2L