squeeling brakes turned to grinding and bad rotor

[MrbLOB9000]

my rear breaks had been squealing on and off while driving for a while now. I couldn't figure out why, I had my brakes done about a year ago and it had been happening since then (maybe before as well, can't remember). Well, I started to now hear a terrible grinding noise, sometimes when I'm braking and sometimes while I'm driving even. It isn't consistent and sometimes I'm able to brake and not get any grinding at all. Last weekend I took the wheel off and found what is in the pictures below. The inner portion of the rotor is fine, smooth like it should be. The outer portion of the rotor has deep gouged lines in it! (I of course don't mean the pattern that came in the rotors to begin with) I looked and I have no brakepad left! I had a different mechanic than did my brakes, check the brakes and wheel bearings during a tire rotation because of the noise, he said the pads were fine with like 70% left, this was two months ago. So either he somehow missed it or the pad got consumed in two months.

so I have some questions:
1. what might the original squealing have been?
2. could my brake pad really be consumed that quickly somehow?
2. Could my caliper or something else (ebrake?) be creating this problem on the rotor or is it just an over worn pad and that's all?

[Daniel]

Could be that you have had a seized caliper or defective brake hose making like a one-way valve due to debris inside.
What car is that?
When was the last brake fluid change?

Sad you drove your car for one year with a brake noise problem.

[MrbLOB9000]

The noise was intermittent and I had multiple look and could never find a problem and just said, "Ya, some brakes bads just do that".

Wouldn't a seized caliper have more effect than just a tiny bit of noise only some times? It never seemed to slow the car down any. My buddy had a seized caliper and he found it because his car refused to move!

It's a 2002 Daewoo Nubira.

I don't know that the brake fluid has ever been changed actually...

[Daniel]

You don't always feel a drag when a caliper is lightly seized. But your wheel rim will be hot after a long squeeling.

I've read on other forum some rear caliper problems on Nubira/Lacetti. Seems to be a weak point, at least in Europe. The only solution was to fit a new one.

Recommended brake fluid change interval is 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic.

I would first dismantle calipers to look if they are not internally corroded, changing all necessary parts, then make a fluid change following rules. Take care not letting air coming in ABS module or you'll need the worshop diagnostic tool to finish the job.

Of course new pads/disks are mandatory.

[MrbLOB9000]

The left pad is from the outside of the rotor, the right pad is from the inside of the rotor on the same wheel!

I did my pads and rotors last weekend because I didn't want my caliper to seize from being over extended/ That happened to a buddy of mine, he couldn't move AT ALL, luckily it happened in his driveway and not the highway. Ended up having to use C-clamps to use the caliper retraction tool because even with it made as small as possible, it still wouldn't fit inside the caliper, so c-clamped it to the outside of the caliper. heh. This was on an Audi A4. I was getting close to that point because I couldn't get the tool in right without putting a thinner disc in the tool than I was supposed to use (at least to begin with).

anyway, I did the rotor and pads last weekend, the new caliper and bracket were ordered last week but didn't come yet, so will likely do those this weekend.

[MrbLOB9000]

and for people that may view this later, everyone seems to think that the oblong cutouts in the rotor is a wire stuck in there, they are supposed to be there and were put there by the manufacturer. These are the rotors I purchased last time: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY ... UTF8&psc=1