1.6L Daewoo E-TEC II Engine Build

[turboetec]

I've got a 1.6L DOHC Daewoo E-TEC II engine in my Chevrolet Cruze (in South-East Asia). The engine block is currently stock at 9.5:1 compression but I'm looking to build it for about 1 bar (at the turbo) / 0.8 bar (at the intake).

I was hoping to strengthen the engine internals to prep it for the boost, especially the rods, pistons, and bolts, and maybe lighten the crankshaft as well while I'm at it. Targeting for compression of 8.5:1.

However, I've been having trouble sourcing for the parts for this block. Does anyone know where I can get forged / strengthened conrods, pistons, and bolts, and maybe the crankshaft?

[ls400x]

I dont think it is a necessity to throw money at pistons and rods. Might be around 160hp at the flywheel @ 1bar? It should live a long and happy life on a standard engine. If I were you I'd leave it the engine sealed.

What engine management are you planning on running? I see a few people here have had success with a emangae.

[PrecisionBoost]

I'm not sure if your 1.6L Cruze engine is in the same family class as our 1.6L

Are you able to confirm if it has an aluminum block or iron block ?

The newer 1.6L are Aluminum, the older 1.6L engines are iron

If it's iron there are options, if it is aluminum that might make it hard for our forum members to help you.

I'm not sure if GSE_Turbo has started to venture into the new aluminum blocks, but it wouldn't hurt to ask him in his forum area ( Holland Sport Performance )

[turboetec]

I'm currently on Unichip, mildly tuned with bolt-on mods so far. This is the older iron 1.6L E-TEC II block.

I know I can boost 0.5-0.7 bar quite safely without touching the engine. I was thinking of going up to about 1.0 bar. For that, I'd rather strengthen the pistons and rods, and while I'm at it probably lighten the crankshaft and put in ARP bolts, etc, while I'm at it since I'll be doing a build anyway.

[PrecisionBoost]

Garrett could probably find you parts for the iron block, there are many suppliers world wide.

Here is a USA supplier:
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

The key thing is not to look for Daewoo engines, since they are simply copies of the X16XE Opel engines made in the Daewoo factory.

In the supplier above you should pick "OPEL" then "connecting rods" then "K1 rods" or "Molnar Tech"


For Rod/Piston combinations you can pick the "Wiesco/IPP international" which will take you to the area you need.

I'm more familiar with the 2.0L engines, so I can't comment on whether the Z16 and X16XE parts are 100% compatible, you may want to search around

Based on what I see, perhaps the only difference may be in the small end pin size ( 18mm vs 19mm )

If your ordering a Piston/Rod combination then it shouldn't matter which one you pick, but again, you need to do some research on the differences between the Z16 and X16 Opel engines to be sure.

Hope that helps

[ls400x]

I'm currently on Unichip, mildly tuned with bolt-on mods so far. This is the older iron 1.6L E-TEC II block.

I know I can boost 0.5-0.7 bar quite safely without touching the engine. I was thinking of going up to about 1.0 bar. For that, I'd rather strengthen the pistons and rods, and while I'm at it probably lighten the crankshaft and put in ARP bolts, etc, while I'm at it since I'll be doing a build anyway.

How have you determined the arbitrary boost limits?

[turboetec]

I found this website quite useful:

http://www.junkyardturbos.com/

Basically, you look at your engine output, match it against a compressor map, and make sure that the compressor doesn't surge and you get the power output you're looking for.

In the case of the 1.6L E-TEC II iron block, I've found that the T3-45 trim matches well.

That said, this is based on my understanding right now. I'll be talking to a tuner to fine-tune this.

[ls400x]

Personally I'd look at something like a MHI TD04L or similar. Since the Subaru guys love to bin them in and upgrade they can be had for close to nothing and are plentiful. Would make a good match for a 1.6.

[turboetec]

True, but given my boost goal of about 1 bar, the TD04L would operate at about 65% efficiency, whereas the T3-45 would operate at about 70% efficiency.

[turboetec]

BTW, I forgot to mention that I've picked 1 bar boost because that'll bring the output torque to the limit of my transmission. Given that, I then went on to pick the turbocharger that would be able to operate most efficiency at my engine's airflow and boost level, based on the compressor map.

[ls400x]

Is the transmission torque rating based on the peak output value of the engine or the peak you can actually develop due to resistance of the rest of the components in the system?

[turboetec]

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-engin ... ng-15.html

Vince, a tuner for the Cruze, wrote to a forum member:

GM has torque ratings on all their transmissions but the aftermarket has repeatedly shown they can withstand well in excess of their torque ratings. For example, the 6L80E, used in the C6 Corvette LS3 is rated at 439 lb-ft of torque, but I've seen them (first hand) handle in excess of 650 lb-ft of torque (add an aftermarket supercharger to the LS3) without any issue. Are they going to have as long of a service life at 650 lb-ft of torque? Probably not, but then again, how often is a supercharged LS3 street car going to actually see 650 lb-ft?

The "weak point" on automatic transmissions tends to be torque capacity through shifts. That's why they have torque management - torque is reduced through the shift to reduce wear and tear on the transmission. We trust that GM chose appropriate amounts of torque reduction so we don't modify these settings.

Aside from that, the other main issue is whether the transmission has enough holding capacity in its clutches. We haven't found any trouble with the 6T40E in this regard with our tune - we do not get slipping or flaring.

Will our tune increase wear and tear on the transmission? Probably. Will it cause a reduced service life? Maybe. But that's true regardless of whether we exceed the "torque limit" set by GM or not. If you drive around with your foot to the floor on the stock tune, you will see a reduced service life, too. But will it break in half the first time you step on the gas? No. Lol

We love writing tunes for people, but as I've said time and time again - people should not modify their cars for more power if they're not willing to accept the possibility of reduced service life. There is no such thing as "having your cake and eating it, too", in this regard.

- Vince Geglia
Trifecta Performance, Inc.