Big ass turbo

[Stefan]

I've had nowt to do whilst waiting for parts for my car so as I had a monster turbo laying around I thought I'd chuck it on a block/head combo to try it out. Seems like it fit ok without any clearance issues
I fitted up my intake too with the new Fiero 2.8 V6 throttle body. Take a look

[Efratech]

SWEEEEETTTTT!

So 20 psi ??????

:lmao:

[Stefan]

20psi? pah, 30psi! this is a mans motor rarrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!

Stef

[daewooluvr]

holy shite!
60 trim?

[pastor69troy]

the best way to turbocharge you lanos is buy a b16 honda motor and strap a turbo on it the drop it in ya car, alot of mod's to the engine bay but it's worth it, o yea same with transmission and diffs'...

[PrecisionBoost]

the best way to turbocharge you lanos is buy a b16 honda motor and strap a turbo on it the drop it in ya car

I've had a few honda's in my time including an H23 and I'd bet that the 1.6L lanos engine is capable of as much or more power than the B16... the problem is with aftermarket support.

Hell... the Cosworth engineers detuned the 1.6L over in Europe.... it was making 150hp in stock form with no effect on component life or reliability.

So that's 94 hp per liter without variable cam geometry.... and that is stock!!! .... which is not far off the famous S2000 engine.

I'm sure you will disagree with me but unless you sleeve the B16 it won't come anywhere close to the same PSI you can drop into the iron block A16DMS.

It would be far cheaper to drop in the 2.0L or 2.2L and turbo it.... everything bolts up.... including several other transmissions such as the mighty AWD 6spd F28 (which you of course convert to a FWD)

Dollar for dollar you can make more power with the stock OPEL drivetrain than you would if you dropped in a Civic motor/tranny ect.

I could do a C20GET ( 2.0L 8V Turbo ) conversion for about $500 and it would kill a B16 on any given day.... simply adjust the waist gate actuator so that boost is brought up to 12psi and wham you have an instant 180hp at the wheels ( roughly 215hp at the crank )

Then again.... import a C20LET (2.0L 16V Turbo ) from Europe or the UK and your likely to make something closer to 300hp by just simply cranking up the boost. ( how much power do you figure on stock internals Stefan??)

And unlike a Honda engine these engines have shitloads of torque in the low end.... which is the only thing I didn't like about the VTEC Honda engines.... you have to keep them up above 4500RPM to make any power.

Having said all this I still love Hondas... I've had a 93 Civic DX, 93 Prelude Si, 88 Accord Coupe and my current Honda is a 98 Acura 3.5RL

[daewooluvr]

the best way to turbocharge you lanos is buy a b16 honda motor and strap a turbo on it the drop it in ya car, alot of mod's to the engine bay but it's worth it, o yea same with transmission and diffs'...

ewww I don't want HONDUH on my hands.

[Efratech]

the best way to turbocharge you lanos is buy a b16 honda motor and strap a turbo on it the drop it in ya car, alot of mod's to the engine bay but it's worth it, o yea same with transmission and diffs'...

ewww I don't want HONDUH on my hands.

:lmao:

[PrecisionBoost]

Sorry to hijack the thread... I just had to respond to the comment about using a small displacement open deck aluminum engine in place of a closed deck cast iron engine.

So Stefan..... are you planning on running this huge ass turbo???

If you are you must be looking at some very serious hp numbers.... I wish you the best of luck.

[Stefan]

daewooluvr - the turbo is a TO4E/T3 hybrid. 0.50A/R 57 trim compressor, 0.63A/R stage 3 turbine.

I'm not going to use it. I've been doing some calculations using some cylinder head flow figures provided by 2_litre_turbo. Basically at around 14-16psi it'll go into surge because the cylinder head and capacity flows less air than what the compressor provides. If it was 2.2L and had a 'race' ported head it would be ok and would be well over 400hp....but thats not really of any use if I want to take it on a circuit, that spec is more suited to a drag race only engine.
It seems a T3 will provide the best combination of drivability and power with just over 300hp available at 22-24psi and a wide powerband.

Erfinder - the stock LET crank and rods have been known to cope with 300hp on a day to day basis and up to 400hp on drag use.

I had some thoughts today with regards to using a 2.2 block which I can get here. If the 2L crank was used (86mm), the taller deck would allow the use of 6" rods giving a rod ratio of 1.8. It would also allow the use of pistons with a full skirt which would reduce the side thrust further giving better cylinder sealing (with the more open deck of that block) and less friction (in theory at least). It should be worth some extra hp.
It maybe one of the reasons they destroked the Ecotec to 2L....

Stef

[PrecisionBoost]

Hopefully certain people that know about this idea that I came up with won't be upset that I'm posting this on the board for everyone to see.... but I don't think it's too big of a deal.

What if you went with the larger turbo but used a wastegate to open up and let a specific amount of air from in front of the throttle body vent back into the intake of the turbo.

It would increase the efficency of the turbo and allow significantly more air flow through the system without the fear of hitting the surge wall.

The waste gate would have to be controlled via a microprocessor but ideally you should be able to keep the large turbo in the sweet spot on the compressor map.

The microcontroller would have to keep an eye on several things such as intake temp and you would need two MAP sensors.... and it might even be wise to install a MAF sensor to measure the actual flow levels.

I had suggested originally a second throttle body but it was pointed out that a waste gate was easier to control.... since you would have to attach a stepper motor to the second throttle body to actuate the butterfly valve.

Basicly the turbo would think your engine is flowing like a 4L engine but only half the air the turbo is supplying would be going into the cylinder head.... the other half would be re-routed into the intake.... which would help keep the turbo spun up and decrease the amount of power required on the turbine side of things.

Basicly if you rerouted the air back into the other side of the turbo your turbo would want to spin up too fast so you would have to set your waste gate at a lower pressure level to avoid this problem.

This is of course all theory.... and by rerouting air back into the intake you would increase the incoming air charge but it might be something of interest for someone looking to make a significant amount of boost.

I suppose you could also vent this extra air to the atmosphere or feed it into the exhaust but there are multiple ways of doing it.

Having said all this it's hard to say if you could ever manage to make this type of system as good as a correctly sized turbo setup.

[PrecisionBoost]

I had some thoughts today with regards to using a 2.2 block which I can get here. If the 2L crank was used (86mm), the taller deck would allow the use of 6" rods giving a rod ratio of 1.8. It would also allow the use of pistons with a full skirt which would reduce the side thrust further giving better cylinder sealing (with the more open deck of that block) and less friction (in theory at least). It should be worth some extra hp.
It maybe one of the reasons they destroked the Ecotec to 2L....
Stef

Well.... here is the quote from the GM engineers that worked on the ECOTEC drag project....

"Since we were going to need the rev capability, breathing and rod-stroke ratio of a square bore-stroke engine, we had Crower build a de-stroked forged billet 2.0-liter crankshaft and used it immediately from 350-hp."

So I guess the rod-stroke-ratio was something they were considering.

I personally want to keep the extra displacement and extend the deck for a longer rod ratio.

I wish I knew what the bore spacing on the american ECOTEC was.... it would be nice to modify my T22SED to use the Crower equipment (which can be purchased through Goodwrench Performance parts )

I guess one could also extend the lower half of the block if you wanted to change the rod ratio without modifying the deck height... just bolt in a machined assembly to offset the crank by what ever you wanted.... you would have to make a custom oil pan but that would be easy.

Plus you could make it into a very large brace by bolting the entire assembly to the old crank bearing halves and the old oil pan holes.

Perhaps I will make a diagram of what I'm talking about if I get the time.

Hmmmm.... this is making me rethink the deck extension... hmmm.... then again if I extended the deck and offset the crank it would solve quite a few of my problems.... because I could custom make the bottom end for what ever crank I wanted to use (provided the bore spacing is correct)

[pastor69troy]

i'm having alot better time with my woo after the honda crate engine swap with the turbo than the e-tec that daewoo put in it. 278hp plus 100 hp turbo 375hpto the wheels nigga want dyno sheet email me

[AcingTeam]

i'm having alot better time with my woo after the honda crate engine swap with the turbo than the e-tec that daewoo put in it. 278hp plus 100 hp turbo 375hpto the wheels nigga want dyno sheet email me

I can get a dyno sheet of a Skyline without your help, thanks

[PrecisionBoost]

i'm having alot better time with my woo after the honda crate engine swap with the turbo than the e-tec that daewoo put in it. 278hp plus 100 hp turbo 375hpto the wheels nigga want dyno sheet email me

So your saying your Daewoo Lanos has a turbocharged Honda B16 that is puting 375hp to the wheels?

Do you have pictures of the engine in your Daewoo??

I'd be really curious about the costs on this project.... I can't imagine it was cheap.... I'd guess $15K+++ for this kind of swap.

How did you manage to mount the driveshafts to the Daewoo spindles or did you swap in a Honda suspension as well?

I can't imagine that your project used the stock honda transmission/differencial/drive shaft/CV joints ....

I'd love to hear some details about how you managed to get around issues like gear linkage, clutch system, power steering.

How on earth did you manage to integrate the Civic electronics into the Daewoo system.... they have totally different instrument panels.