GsiTurbo 2.0L 16V Turbo buildup ***DYNORUN 236WHP 255WTQ***

[ant0ny]

Interesting read well done both of you the car... nice job.

Have to ask... do you intend to change the diff ratio in the F28? you do know it is 3.72:1 and as far as I have worked out there was only ever one ratio for this box. The F20 you now run is it a 4.1:1 or a 3.9:1? which are the 2 standard ratios you will find. So you may find yeah the car will have a massive top speed but you are going to struggle to match the acceleration in the first 2 gears of your current setup.... but then it is turboed so maybe the torque will make it all work.

Looking at the build pics I noticed where the air filter was. if you leave this there you are giving away heaps of HP right there. I suggest relocating the battery to the otherside and making an airbox where the battery was. I see alot of people fall inot this mistake especially when they see the numbers on the dyno with the bonnet open and a huge fan... in this static mode you are not getting the full heat effect. With the bonnet closed and temps from the radiator, tubo and motor all you are doing is sucking in hot air.

My tuner years ago with my car on the dyno pointed this out to my supprise. We did a couple of runs with my filter pod in its normal spot just sucking air from the engine bay. Then the had a peice of hose that fitted over my pod filter and just draped it over the front radiator support panel onto the bumper to simulate if I had a compartmant with a air tube going to the front getting clean air from the outside. The difference in a N/A motor of 2 runs each was 5 to 7 HP. Just imagin sitting on the start line reving the engine with the car not moving how hot it would be under the bonnet and do a launch. Then imagine doing the same launch if you had 7HP more... all for the sake of a few hours and bit of pipe and plate.

I have seen N/A cars pickup 10+HP with just clean air mod and ceramic coated manifolds before they even pulled the engine apart or tricked the ecu.

[mr_g]

Have to ask... do you intend to change the diff ratio in the F28? you do know it is 3.72:1 and as far as I have worked out there was only ever one ratio for this box. The F20 you now run is it a 4.1:1 or a 3.9:1? which are the 2 standard ratios you will find. So you may find yeah the car will have a massive top speed but you are going to struggle to match the acceleration in the first 2 gears of your current setup.... but then it is turboed so maybe the torque will make it all work.

In my opinion, high torque turbo engines on FWD could use 3.55 or lower FDR, not 3.72 or bigger.... Just my 50cent...

I have seen N/A cars pickup 10+HP with just clean air mod and ceramic coated manifolds before they even pulled the engine apart or tricked the ecu.

N/A is the key word! Turbo engines doesn't make the difference where the airbox is... The difference makes where the IC is, and how efficient it is... FYI inlet air temperatures after the turbo are 150 or more degrees Celsius. Let's say that the road temp is 30 degress celsius, it doesn't matter if the air temperature before the compressor is 30, or 40 degress celsius...

[PrecisionBoost]

Just thought I'd update this a bit....

I've given up on the POS Nubira ECU and have decided the best route is indeed standalone.

So.... the car wiring has been completely disassembled everything cut, marked and verified on paper.

The Greddy Emanage is going away and a new Megasquirt will be going into it's place.

I will keep the E-O1 as it's a good unit and I should be able to pull quite a bit of info from the Megasquirt.

I've also relocated the Battery to the trunk in an IHRA approved battery box with 1/0 Gauge wire and gold plated connections all over the place.

The reason for this is indeed the issue of hot air.... prior to relocation of the battery it was impossible to get cool air and the new filter was crammed between hot coolant pipes.

I monitored the IAT data and to my surprise it ran relatively cool except at idle ( which makes the car run even more rich )

I still haven't managed to get a Quaife LSD, the fellow that promised me a decent price has been unreliable.... I keep trying to get him to get me bank transfer info an he keeps giving excuses.... so I think I will have to go elsewhere and find a new supplier.

I think I will hold off on the F28 for the moment, my Calibra 4X4 2.0L turbo will be here in a few weeks and I want to make sure it's F28 is good before I use the one I have ( which has been rebuilt and blueprinted by SBD motorsports )

I still have a brand spanking new M32 gearbox from the Astra VXR and it seems like guys are putting a fair bit of power through these gearboxes so I may just put it into the GSi instead of the F28.

If I want to push 450+ WHP I'm going to want to look at new axles anyways..... so odds are I will start investigating the possibility of converting over to a different hub ( possibly vectra/calibra/Saab )

The Saab 9-3 would probably be my easiest bet.... so I will start there.

Hopefully I should have the car back on the road with a decent tuning map by the end of Septemeber.... I moved the car out to the garage at my lake house (where we go each weekend ) so I am getting more work done now than I have ever done in the past ( averaging 3-4 hours a weekend )

[steveboyslim]

I still haven't managed to get a Quaife LSD, the fellow that promised me a decent price has been unreliable.... I keep trying to get him to get me bank transfer info an he keeps giving excuses.... so I think I will have to go elsewhere and find a new supplier.



I did explain why I was not able to sort a deal with the Quaife diffs, I did not expect to be robbed at gun point.
Also parcel2go kept giving me different prices, they use FedEx, who when I enquired dirctley came up with a different price.
I did not have any confidence in parcel2go, I have had some very bad experence with internet only couriers.
I did not want you to transfere any money until I was sure about the postage costs, it was not like I took your money and failed to send any parts.
I am able to supply Quaife diffs, please check with me incase ther has been a price increase (there may be a price increase in the new year), as many as you like, I can also supply Gripper plate diffs.

Steve

[PrecisionBoost]

Well, this project has made a dramatic turn in it's drivetrain.

The high power 2.0L 16V was removed, I've swapped in a C20GET from my other project car and I have finally got her started last weekend.

The interior is completely stripped, no dash, no front seats, no carpet.... nothing but the steering wheel, wiring and pedals.

The plan is to make a custom interior ( some work by me, some work by a local shop )


The car needs bodywork, after a few years of fun she is starting to show her age and I want to ensure I get it sorted out before rust sets in.

I will most likely run a conservative 10psi and make it into a fun, simple, reliable car for driving around on weekend tuner events.

Might take it out to the track for a pass just to see what it will do, but there is no plan to push it.


The high power engine will make it's way into the calibra, I'm most likely going to convert it to FWD and push some serious power through the front end as the 4X4 system is giving me grief, so I might as well do away with it.

[PrecisionBoost]

Well the bitter sweet end is in sight, the GSi is most likely going to find a new owner tomorrow.

After a dozen or so hours working with the soon to be new owner, the car is up and running strong with a custom manifold and a T3 Super 60 turbo

In stock condition it pulls a consistent 10psi at 3/4 throttle and jumps up into the 12-14psi as you put your foot into it.

Given it's stripped, I have to think it would weigh in under 2000lbs, making it a very quick little beast capable of being a solid daily driver.

In the end I don't really want to sell the GSi, but it make sense to hand it over to someone who has the time to take care of it instead of let it sit and rot under the sun.

The last few years I've been consistently working 60-80 hours a week ( my own manufacturing business ) so I simply lack the time to work on cars.

So for me the focus will sit squarely on my Opel Calibra for now, I still have a low mileage Lanos and a stripped Pontiac Lemans I can play with in the future.

Hopefully the new owner will continue to post here and show progression forwards, I will be helping him out along the way as we start to integrate many of the engine management components I have included with the sale of the car.