rodd1s' ex-turbo Lanos [1349 sleeper in the making]
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
well, u want to get noticed lol
i think it sounds good
i think it sounds good
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
getting 'noticed' doesnt quite explain what this bov does... it'll give old people heart attacks - im sure of it. lol
although i cant realy complain seeing as i got the bov for the nice price of £5.70... gota love ebay!
i'll get a video or two up once its running again so you can get an idea of just how loud it is.
although i cant realy complain seeing as i got the bov for the nice price of £5.70... gota love ebay!
i'll get a video or two up once its running again so you can get an idea of just how loud it is.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
what PSI did you have it boosting @???Rodd1s wrote:had it boosting today... then the oil feed pipe decided to shoot off and drain all the oil. £35 worth of fully synthetic down the drain.
fuelling and boost pressure still needs to be set up properly, but at least the hard part is done.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
at full throttle, the highest i saw it go was 10 or 11 psi... i need to adjust the wastegate actuator a bit more or add a bleed valve to the boost pipes to get rid of some of the pressure. there's no way i can modify the internal wastegate cos of the way its kinda moulded into the turbo's hot side (look at the first few pics of the turbo and u'll see what i mean).
i tried keeping it at 5 or below, but that meant i couldnt floor it - couldn't use more than bout half throttle and didnt go over 4000rpm.
ive also ordered the last of the boost pipes so i can get the intercooler plumbed in - or at least i hope i ordered enough piping to get round the job.
another thing, the IAT sensor... ive kept the standard bit of black rubber hosing that's on the inlet manifold. plugged up the oil breather hole with a plastic screw-wedge-type BMX bar-end.
to do list:
make bracket(s) for intercooler
install intercooler
connect boost pipes
install air/fuel ratio gauge
sort out fueling
finish/fix exhaust
once its all done i'll get a pic or two of the engine bay so you can all marvel at my messy artwork - ie: oil splatter, etc.
i tried keeping it at 5 or below, but that meant i couldnt floor it - couldn't use more than bout half throttle and didnt go over 4000rpm.
ive also ordered the last of the boost pipes so i can get the intercooler plumbed in - or at least i hope i ordered enough piping to get round the job.
another thing, the IAT sensor... ive kept the standard bit of black rubber hosing that's on the inlet manifold. plugged up the oil breather hole with a plastic screw-wedge-type BMX bar-end.
to do list:
make bracket(s) for intercooler
install intercooler
connect boost pipes
install air/fuel ratio gauge
sort out fueling
finish/fix exhaust
once its all done i'll get a pic or two of the engine bay so you can all marvel at my messy artwork - ie: oil splatter, etc.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
you will need a boost controler, to adjust the boost to 3-5psiRodd1s wrote:at full throttle, the highest i saw it go was 10 or 11 psi... i need to adjust the wastegate actuator a bit more or add a bleed valve to the boost pipes to get rid of some of the pressure. there's no way i can modify the internal wastegate cos of the way its kinda moulded into the turbo's hot side (look at the first few pics of the turbo and u'll see what i mean).
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
the only problem with boost controllers is (especially ones similar to the ebay sort) that they can only control boost above what the internal wastegate actuator is set to, eg: they can only increase boost.
i need to either bleed off excess pressure using a bleed valve, or construct some form of a network of vacuum/boost hoses with check valves etc to fool the actuator into thinking that there's more boost than there actually is so it opens earlier... but i dont know if this is possible.
a network of hoses sounds a bit over the top, what i mean is have one or more smaller hoses coming from the boost pipes through a check valve going into (using a t piece) the vac/turbo pipe that connects to the wastegate actuator, but then i dont know if the pressure will keep accumulating or if it will stop once its equal to the actual boost pressure.
maybe this is just wishful thinking, i dont know.
i'll probly just end up using a plumbing bleed valve (£5 from B&Q) with a 20mm connection t-pieced into the boost pipes and play round with it until a satisfactory boost pressure is obtained. maybe i could put a whistle on this bleed valve like a screamer pipe for over boost lol.
edit: just had another idea... attach a good ol' adjustable actuator to a valve of sorts on the boost pipes, like this one acting as a pressure dump valve.
i need to either bleed off excess pressure using a bleed valve, or construct some form of a network of vacuum/boost hoses with check valves etc to fool the actuator into thinking that there's more boost than there actually is so it opens earlier... but i dont know if this is possible.
a network of hoses sounds a bit over the top, what i mean is have one or more smaller hoses coming from the boost pipes through a check valve going into (using a t piece) the vac/turbo pipe that connects to the wastegate actuator, but then i dont know if the pressure will keep accumulating or if it will stop once its equal to the actual boost pressure.
maybe this is just wishful thinking, i dont know.
i'll probly just end up using a plumbing bleed valve (£5 from B&Q) with a 20mm connection t-pieced into the boost pipes and play round with it until a satisfactory boost pressure is obtained. maybe i could put a whistle on this bleed valve like a screamer pipe for over boost lol.
edit: just had another idea... attach a good ol' adjustable actuator to a valve of sorts on the boost pipes, like this one acting as a pressure dump valve.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
your best bet is to wait till you got it bleeded and such..
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
intercooler is in, with boost piping from intercooler to throttle body.
the intercooler is only zip-tied in place for now, dont know how i'm gonna make brackets for it yet.
didnt get time to take pictures, the rain came in from no where like a tropical storm. had to pack up n run. if the sun's out again later i'll get back outside and do some more work.
the intercooler is only zip-tied in place for now, dont know how i'm gonna make brackets for it yet.
didnt get time to take pictures, the rain came in from no where like a tropical storm. had to pack up n run. if the sun's out again later i'll get back outside and do some more work.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
Rodd1s wrote: didnt get time to take pictures, the rain came in from no where like a tropical storm. had to pack up n run. if the sun's out again later i'll get back outside and do some more work.
yeah i know
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
air/fuel ratio gauge installed... under the dash, slightly behind the steering wheel to hide it from the outside world lol:
this is pretty much the view i have of it in my driving position. its got a blue glow, so should look quite nice at night aswell.
this is pretty much the view i have of it in my driving position. its got a blue glow, so should look quite nice at night aswell.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
got it up and running again today, still need to sort out the boost piping... got a leak.
wired up the air/fuel ratio gauge, which didnt give any readings until the the engine (and presumably the o2 sensor) had started heating up. once it did warm up it showed a reading on the line between lean/optimal, gave it a little rev and this did nothing. then the needle slowly started falling into lean followed by a shitty idle and the engine almost cutting out. this went on for about 20 seconds before somehow the engine jumps back into life and goes to normal idling for about a minute and then the same happens again. turned the engine off, tried starting it up again, but nothing. tried again with my foot on the throttle and pumping it and it started but with the realy shitty idle.
turned it off again, disconnected the air/fuel gauge and it started 1st time, had bad idle for 10 seconds before correcting itself and now its fine - with the gauge's signal wire disconnected.
anyone got any ideas as to why this could happen? or whether the air/fuel ratio gauge could affect the o2 sensor's output to ecu?
wired up the air/fuel ratio gauge, which didnt give any readings until the the engine (and presumably the o2 sensor) had started heating up. once it did warm up it showed a reading on the line between lean/optimal, gave it a little rev and this did nothing. then the needle slowly started falling into lean followed by a shitty idle and the engine almost cutting out. this went on for about 20 seconds before somehow the engine jumps back into life and goes to normal idling for about a minute and then the same happens again. turned the engine off, tried starting it up again, but nothing. tried again with my foot on the throttle and pumping it and it started but with the realy shitty idle.
turned it off again, disconnected the air/fuel gauge and it started 1st time, had bad idle for 10 seconds before correcting itself and now its fine - with the gauge's signal wire disconnected.
anyone got any ideas as to why this could happen? or whether the air/fuel ratio gauge could affect the o2 sensor's output to ecu?
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
air/fuel ratio gauge decided to work today. seems to run optimal to rich below 4000 rpm before going quite close to lean nearer 5000-5500 rpm.
got it boosting at 6psi, and took it on its maiden voyage last nite.
mid range torque is a lot better (pulls like a train between 3000 and 4500 rpm) but the top end is killed by the small injectors.
in 5th gear under full load it hits nearly 5 psi at only 2000 rpm - makes it great for overtaking without having to change down a gear.
got a check engine light pop up last nite, but that went earlier today when i started it again. thinking it might be the map sensor, but it still worked fine if not better when the cel was on -freaky- lol
next in line is full silicon & aluminium boost piping (approx. £200) and bigger injectors - but mite be able to get them for free from a breaker yard.
got it boosting at 6psi, and took it on its maiden voyage last nite.
mid range torque is a lot better (pulls like a train between 3000 and 4500 rpm) but the top end is killed by the small injectors.
in 5th gear under full load it hits nearly 5 psi at only 2000 rpm - makes it great for overtaking without having to change down a gear.
got a check engine light pop up last nite, but that went earlier today when i started it again. thinking it might be the map sensor, but it still worked fine if not better when the cel was on -freaky- lol
next in line is full silicon & aluminium boost piping (approx. £200) and bigger injectors - but mite be able to get them for free from a breaker yard.
Cargo cultism is a beautiful thing as long as you never fall for it.
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
good to hear it working so far...
and i think its called stealing lol......i would prop do the sameRodd1s wrote: and bigger injectors - but mite be able to get them for free from a breaker yard.
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Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
its not stealing, its aquireing, get it right jeffy
Re: rodd1s' Lanos [updates on first post]
loldaewoomofo wrote:its not stealing, its aquireing, get it right jeffy