About a year ago I bought custom-made SS-Braided brake lines from a forum member, and I finally may get around to installing them this weekend.
I don't anticipate any headaches replacing the brake lines (loosen banjo bolt, loosen line from steel hardline), but my main concern is bleeding the brakes and clutch after the installation. Bleeding the brakes themselves is easy, just build up pressure in the pedal and then have someone loosen the bleeder bolt until the fluid comes out clean and without air, but I was wondering if the procedure was the same for the clutch? I know that in some cars pumping the clutch and then releasing the bleeder bolt causes a fall in system pressure and the pedal falls to the floor and won't return. Are our cars like that (2001 Lanos Sport 5-Spd?), or should I just go about bleeding the clutch and brakes normally? Thanks!
Replacing Brake Lines and Brake Fluid
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- BosnianLanos
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Re: Replacing Brake Lines and Brake Fluid
Hi,
Don't get headhaches purging your baby.
-For purging brake lines start at rear right then front left, rear left and front right. Providing you don't have ABS.
-Never ever floor brake pedal or you can destroy master cylinder rubber seals by dislodging sluge and other nasty things where master piston(s) never goes. Place a brick (to be removed before driving
) or the like between floor and pedal. -Clutch pedal often need to be pulled up by hand once purge valve is colsed.
-Watch your fluid level ANY time .
Daniel,
Don't get headhaches purging your baby.
-For purging brake lines start at rear right then front left, rear left and front right. Providing you don't have ABS.
-Never ever floor brake pedal or you can destroy master cylinder rubber seals by dislodging sluge and other nasty things where master piston(s) never goes. Place a brick (to be removed before driving
) or the like between floor and pedal. -Clutch pedal often need to be pulled up by hand once purge valve is colsed.
-Watch your fluid level ANY time .
Daniel,