Lanos 1.5L Turbo conversion - stock EMS

[DOOFWOO]

Does the stock EMS handle positive manifold pressures ??
if so, what PSI are people generally running ??

I have all the gear -

T28 Garret
CA18DET injectors
e15et fuel pump ( Turbo Pulsar )
Intercooler
T/smart boost controller
t/smart type 2 vee port BOV

just concerned about the stock computer being able to handle even 7psi boost.

Your help is much appreciated.

Clint - Hervey Bay, Australia

[mikedudley17]

I would imagine you would be okay. if ur not sure and dont want to risk it, get a standalone.

[jidasas]

stock computer can't handle boost...you have to bypass the stock map sensor with check valves and run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to get enough fuel into the engine...someone else can go into more detail cause it's more than just that I'm sure. but don't get discouraged cause it can be done and will be awesome to drive when you're finished.

Jimmy

[mikedudley17]

i know of one prob now that i think about it when a guy on aveoclub boosted his aveo that was an auto, it didnt want to shift right but it otherwise worked ok. if u stay low boost like 5-7 psi u should be ok, u just got to do some trickery. i think a bigger prob than the ecu is fuel delivery(how much the stock injectors/pump can handle) which is addressed in the post above me a lil bit.

[jidasas]

The stock auto tranny is only good to about 200 hp at the flywheel. so with 6 or 7 psi you should be ok...since that only pushes you to around 165 or 170 hp at best. Fueling and watching you EGT/getting a wideband o2 sensor is definately a must though

[PrecisionBoost]

The issue will be the MAP sensor.... it's a only a 1bar sensor.

That is to say at 0psi of boost the sensor will give out 5V.... the maximum it can give out.

After you pass 0PSI of boost the stock ECU will not add any further fuel.

In fact at a certain point it will think the MAP is damaged ( due to the voltage being higher than a normally aspirated engine will ever give it )

Once the ECU puts on it's Check Engine light it will ignore the MAP sensor and most likely run very rich.

Last major issue is that the element on a 1bar sensor can only handle so much boost before it breaks.

That is to say it's designed to see vacuum.... not boost.

Some MAP sensors can withstand 3psi before their sensor breaks.... while other sensors can handle 8 psi without a problem.

I don't know how much your standard GM 1Bar can handle before the sensor element breaks.

You really should have a check valve in place to ensure that Boost is blocked from getting to the MAP sensor.

The problem is that most check valves suck..... they don't equalize the pressure after the boost has dropped off.

The only check valve I suggest using is the "missing link" check valve.... do a search in Google and you should find it.

I think it's made by Synapse Engineering... but I could be wrong.

This type of valve does not have a delay in equalizing the pressure when you lift off the throttle.


As far as fuel.... when in boost you should have more fuel when going into boost.

There are two methods.....

1) increase injector size..... the negative of this is that the car will run really rich at idle and not be very happy
2) Rising rate fuel pressure regulator.... no negatives on this.... just a pain in the ass to set up

For the RRFPR you will have to have a dash fuel pressure meter and either tune it on a dyno (rolling road) or out on an abandoned street where you can go hard.

You should also have a wide band O2 sensor if your going to do a street tune.

With a dyno you can usually get the option of them checking your air/fuel ratio.

I would suggest 11:1 during boost to keep the engine from detonating.

You may also want to consider the idea of using a water/methanol injection system.

With 7 psi it might be possible to inject enough water/methanol to give the car enough fuel ( with slightly larger injectors )

To calculate your injector size I suggest going onto the RC Engineering site ( they sell injectors and give you all the calculations required to figure things out )

[daewoomofo]

the auto tranny can handle WAY more power than 200hp at the flywheel, its more like 250-300. its the gm 4t40e, its a strong durable tranny

[DOOFWOO]

Thanks guys, your help has been invaluable.

what it comes down to is that i will need a new ECU - either piggyback or standalone.

i just didn't want to throw all the good bits onto the lanos and have it implode on its first outing..

I did read through the "how to" but it didn't mention anything about engine management. i found out in a different post that his came with a piggy back already, " Greddy E-manage " i think i read.

Anyway .. thanks guys .. problem solved.

Clint

[PrecisionBoost]

Another easy way to go is to add another injector in behind the throttle body..... you can get several aftermarket injector controllers.

Basically you let the car go on stock injectors up to 0psi and then you have a single injector ( throttle body injector works ok ) which adds the extra fuel.

[MMamdouh]

tango broke his MAP sensor when he turboed his racer... MAP sensors can handle boost... even low level boost

MMamdouh